I needed a better drying system than the old fixed rack setup I had for drying rugs. As much as I like spending money there was no way I could spend the 3-5k or more on a pro setup with the volume of rugs that I currently do. I was able to put this rack together in about 8 hours and $400. I've been doing pullups (like one) on the poles to test the strength but we will have to see how it holds up when loaded.
Redneck drying tower
- Thread starter Chris A
- Start date
hogjowl
Idiot™
I'd suggest some corner support.
BradFenstermaker
Member
2nd corner brace. You will be pulling and swinging while other rugs hang.
Better safe than sorry.
Better safe than sorry.
Desk Jockey
Member
Do those hooks go all the way through and have nuts on the topside? Looks great!
Just be careful when working under it. Wet rugs can be very heavy.
Just be careful when working under it. Wet rugs can be very heavy.
Jeremy N
Supportive Member
- Joined
- Nov 25, 2006
- Messages
- 936
From experience those 2 x 4s will warp over time.
Jeremy N
Supportive Member
- Joined
- Nov 25, 2006
- Messages
- 936
It looks like the 2 x 4s will be holding the rugs up. If that is the case they will warp and sag.
The poles are 2x4s. The rest are 2x6s. My other rack has lasted years without the 2x4s warping but then again I don't clean a lot of heavy Chineses etc mostly karastan type quality
Ralph Pastorelli
Member
Mine are the same way with the 2x4 with pvc around them but our pulleys are through the I-beams in the ceiling and bolted there.
knoxclean
Supportive Member
I had some homemade wood racks for awhile. They work but but kinda of shake. Take a few pic's of the "Red and Blue" racks that sell for about $4000 and take them to a local welder with your spec's and get it done for $1000. I had them put wheels on mine as well.
BCUC
Member
Looks good but I would recommend using dado joints on those top boards. With the way it is all the weight is being put on those screws. A dado cut like I am talking about would shift the weight to the 4x4 uprights. Just my .02 cents. Either way, that setup beats dropping 4k until your running enough volume. Nice Work!
dgardner
Moderator
Agree with Richard - use hooks that go all the way through with nuts. The 200 lb rating may be optimistic - in a damp environment and as the wood ages....
Mikey P
Administrator
Looks fine.
No rugfag assholes to deal with either.
Nice job!
No rugfag assholes to deal with either.
Nice job!
Bjorn
Member
- Joined
- Oct 7, 2006
- Messages
- 2,450
no rug secrets
hogjowl
Idiot™
Would somebody give Gargan some love? He's the only one of us with any real info.
The Great Oz
Member
Your weak points are the eye hook screws pulling out of the wood and those open eye hooks bending and breaking right where they meet the wood. Just don't work under the pole you're lifting.
After the first real use I can see those bottom hooks that I'm winching off of aren't going to work. I'm going to find something I can through bolt there and while I'm at it I will probably do the same with the ones up top as well just to be safe.
Dolly Llama
Number 5
4" long 5/16 threaded I-bolts ..over in the hardware dept
..L.T.A.
..L.T.A.
Mark Saiger
Mr Happy!
We are using one inch galvanized pipe that comes in 10 foot length and put the end caps on it.
You could probably wrap your cable around then ends of the pipe like we have our rope.
Been doing this for a number of years.
We also run those pipes and hangers in 4 different areas in our shop.
They fit right in between our shop door rails.
Here are a few pics I found this morning in my photobucket.
I have other hanging units like this in the front of the shop coming down from the ceiling too.
You could probably wrap your cable around then ends of the pipe like we have our rope.
Been doing this for a number of years.
We also run those pipes and hangers in 4 different areas in our shop.
They fit right in between our shop door rails.
Here are a few pics I found this morning in my photobucket.
I have other hanging units like this in the front of the shop coming down from the ceiling too.
The Great Oz
Member
Chris, You can go through the 2x6 the 2" way, with large fender washers on each side. You'll minimize how much wood you're going to drill away and have a stronger overall structure. Use a heavy closed loop eye bolt and attach the pulley using 'S' hooks. That way if anything fails it will be the cheap and easy to replace 'S'.
Dolly Llama
Number 5
When 5 of 'em equal 1000 pounds ???
That 2x6 is carrying more load than it should for that great of a span . (assuming max possible weight)
a center post on each side would fix that.
or double the load bearing 2x6s (one on each side of post) and bolted like a deck beam...
and if you did that, it would allow you to use hanging hardware to easily move the racks fore or aft instead of being fixed stationary (maybe)..not sure how wench system works)
if you're screwed to the back wall, that would be good to keep the front to rear sway.
left to right sway out front is questionable though.
couple 45 degree cross supports would help greatly
implement the above reinforcement suggestions and I'll issue an official redneck certified "oakie doakie" seal of approval
I'm just goofing off this weekend ..would love to come over to help you make it rock solid...wouldn't cost much at all in additional materials..and would be "lifetime" solid when we're done
..L.T.A.
Thanks for the offer Larry, I'm up to my ears in family stuff this weekend so I doubt I'll be able to do anything with it. I'll add another 4x4 to the to do list when I replace the hooks with eye bolts. I'll let you know when I do though and I'd buy you a couple frescas for your troubles 
