10 to 15, back to 13

[B&BGaryC]

My white magic was only getting about ten or eleven Hg's

I turned it up to 15. It started bogging the engine down a little and dumping water. I called my distrib. He said it's designed to withstand 17-18, but he doesn't like pushing it. He told me to turn it down to 13 where he set it 3 years ago.

When I had it set at 15 it only really pulled 12 or 13 with the wand hooked up and the glide on it.

However, I saw my machine struggling, and I know I will get fired if I blow up our truck.

I'm turning it down to 13 under a full load.

What sort of benefit do I get from higher lift anyway?

I noticed the one job I did seemed to be dryer when I left, but I may have just been imagining things.

 

[Out of Character - 0]

Lift = how hard your machine is pulling air through the carpet. Pulling harder = more cfm's through the carpet . A 860 cfm blower with 10 hg will likely pull less through the carpet than a 350 cfm unit with 15 hg.

 

[Greenie]

What rpm is the engine running at?

btw: 13" with a glide is pretty good, I think you are confusing "set point" with operational lift. The 15" reference would be fully blocked off with no tools attached, this would be your set point, and you would only block it off for a few seconds to check the resistance on the vacuum gage.

High rpm will help with higher loads.

 

[B&BGaryC]

Engine runs at 3600

How it was set before, under a full load it bogged down to about 3450 -3500

When my set point was at 15, it bogged down to 3325-3400 and got really hot and started dumping water while I was using it. While using it I had a constant 12-13 with a set point of 15.

I think with a set point of 13 I should have a constant 10-11.

 

[Greenie]

With the current hot water management of the WM, I'd leave it set a bit lower too.
After warranty, I'd get on fixing that hot water dumping stuff, no need for it.
The WM 1900 I have in my shop is gonna get gutted of all the WM stuff, and start over from scratch with a simple system that dumps nothing.

 

[B&BGaryC]

I don't think the owner is going to go for gutting the whole system. I ran a Hydromaster slide in that did nothing but dump water into the waste tank. You had to empty the waste tank every job. This white magic is designed not to dump water into the waste tank, but when I'm not using it, the water has to go somewhere, so I get a small stream of water running along the floorboards of my van and out the back door. Why? I don't know. I imagine if I switched to a high flow greenhorn I would be using enough water to keep from dumping... I talked to some other people to get a second opinion. (People familiar with my particular machine.) They told me to bump it up to 14 and call it good, and that as long as I can use the water, 15 isn't going to hurt anything, but I should try a Bayco Vac Relief...

 

[Greenie]

I imagine if I switched to a high flow greenhorn I would be using enough water to keep from dumping....

Gary, a GH wand runs from 08 flow to 015 flow, you don't need to buy my wand, just change out your jets to mimic the flow equivalent, but be reasonable, if you are running a 2 jet wand with a 2" hose to it, give a pair of 05s a try, or maybe a pair of 06s if you are gonna try the 4 to the door thing. It will do a lot to keep your heat in check.

 

[B&BGaryC]

I know I don't have to buy your wand, but I respect you for pointing it out. I don't want to increase my flow when I only have a 1.5" wand though. Especially because I don't have a good sheer angle on the jets, they just point down. I think if I had any 2" wand with a glide I would be brave enough to try higher flow.

 

[Greenie]

Fear not.

As long as you have a glide, and are running 4 to the door you will be fine with a small jet upgrade, do it, you will like it. Just don't run higher than normal pressure, 400 psi with a high flow 2 jet will be a sweet spot, your heat will thank you.

 

[B&BGaryC]

I clean at 300-350 normally.

 

[B&BGaryC]

If I bump my flow a bit, will this extend or improve my dry times?

My wanding technique as follows:

I start with an upstroke wet, and backstroke wet.
I immediately do an upstroke and a backstroke dry over the same area. (Allowing for overlap)

Overlap slightly and do it again.

I have gotten killer dry times by doing this, and then adding another set of dry passes in the traditional manner that most wanders do, on top of the immediate dry passes. However, this means I am going over every square foot 12 times, and that's too time consuming.... With my normal method each area gets gone over 8 times. (2 dry, 2 wet, 1/2 overlap doubles it...)

Does that make any sense?

 

[Greenie]

My wanding technique as follows:

I start with an upstroke wet, and backstroke wet.
I immediately do an upstroke and a backstroke dry over the same area. (Allowing for overlap)

Overlap slightly and do it again.

Gary, have you ever used a clear sight tube between your wand and hose connection?

It will talk to you.

You will know when and where an extra dry pass will be helpful and where it is just spent energy.

As for the recommended cleaning pressure, the fiber density of the carpet will determine when you can turn it up, and when you should turn it down.
Regardless, keep in mind running two hoses to the door will probably do more for your cleaning than anything else when used with a glide.

All things being equal, higher flow will help you clean faster and rinse better, and you stand a reasonable chance of having a net drier carpet with your current tools. Also your machine won't labor quite as hard with two hoses out.