370 owners..

Mikey P

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Do yourself a favor and take your ignition key out at night..

If for some reason some dipchit leaves it cocked to the right, your battery will drain and you'll blow the thermostat switch fuse..

Three hours wasted..

20160224_172327.jpg
 
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dgardner

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Of course leaving the key in but in the off position is enough to keep from draining the battery, but taking it out guarantees it is off. So, not a bad idea.
 
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Lee Stockwell
Make a spare! Fortunately all our 405s, are keyed alike.

I've broken one twice. I don't see the need of a key in the first place, just tempts someone to mess with it.
 

jcooper

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Do yourself a favor and take your ignition key out at night..
20160224_172327-jpg.12317.jpg


Just so you know, in case of emergency...

For example...

lets say you do take the key out and forget to put it back and end up at your first job Monday morning 45 minutes away...:hopeless: Got brakes done over the weekend, took the key out so know-one would screw w/it... Again :hopeless:!

It will start with a small flat head screw driver.
 
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Spurlington

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I had my direct drive in the shop for about a month years and years ago and they left my key on accumulating hours upon hours. It went in with aprox 200 hrs and came out with several hundred more - ugh !!
 

wilpath

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Jan 14, 2007
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or you could replace that key like I did, and use a keyless start knob,,,never broken key or lost key again,,
 
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GeneMiller

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I'd like a push start too. I hate wiring stuff and it's a pretty tight spot but what the heck. Now I need to find a push start the same diameter. Hey Fred, you have a link for me yet.
 
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Noble Carpet Cleaners
they just published a new page to the maintenance manual. They want us to wipe anti-seize compound on part of the diverter shaft (that disappears into the diverter) every 100hr and shoot 5 sec of WD40 into each port of the air actuator. IMHO that's asking for a mess over the long term. No way I'm going load up the actuator with lube. I'm opting for moving the shaft manually (big screw driver, it's easy) with the machine off and cleaning it with a rag and solvent. In 120 hours its already accumulated some carbon build up from being inside of the diverter assemble. Comes right off with wiping. Anti-seize is going to scream for dirt to accumulate. I'll bet 5 bucks if the diverter sticks it's going to be inside where these plates interact.
 

jcooper

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they just published a new page to the maintenance manual. They want us to wipe anti-seize compound on part of the diverter shaft (that disappears into the diverter) every 100hr and shoot 5 sec of WD40 into each port of the air actuator. IMHO that's asking for a mess over the long term. No way I'm going load up the actuator with lube. I'm opting for moving the shaft manually (big screw driver, it's easy) with the machine off and cleaning it with a rag and solvent. In 120 hours its already accumulated some carbon build up from being inside of the diverter assemble. Comes right off with wiping. Anti-seize is going to scream for dirt to accumulate. I'll bet 5 bucks if the diverter sticks it's going to be inside where these plates interact.

I thought I was having an issue with mine, got some kinda high temp lube.

Turned out to be cracks in the 1/4" plastic tubing(vacuum line?) connected to the dirverter. It uses vacuum to open and close it. On mine anyways.




"shoot 5 sec of WD40 into each port of the air actuator"

What's an air actuator and where is it? I've got 2k on mine never done this.
 

dgardner

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Turned out to be cracks in the 1/4" plastic tubing(vacuum line?) connected to the diverter. It uses vacuum to open and close it. On mine anyways.
"shoot 5 sec of WD40 into each port of the air actuator"
What's an air actuator and where is it? I've got 2k on mine never done this.

The thing you are calling the diverter (where the two plastic lines connect) is the air actuator.

370SS_Divertor.jpg
 
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jcooper

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The thing you are calling the diverter (where the two plastic lines connect) is the air actuator.

Thank's, Dan! I knew it had to be something in that area.


Is it just me? Or does Dan seem to know a FLIPPING lot about tm's?:rockon:
 
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GeneMiller

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i had those plastic lines on my last truck mount to get the wd40 from the front of the machine into the blower. they melted in the first 50 hrs. these are either much better quality or away from heat. over a 1k hrs and they still look fine. i got an industrial version with connectors from a friend. held up to the heat and chemicals perfectly. when the time comes these will be going in. i never had to replace these after they were installed. they never yellowed either, which bothers me to no end. the connectors and plastic made by swage.

IMG_0775.jpg
 
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jcooper

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I prefer to spray wd40 right into the vac relief valve

hmmmmm, really....

So you just leave the machine running on full power, push the bolt(vac relief) to the side and spray???

It is somewhat frustrating not knowing if the wd40/lube makes it to the blower. Only way to know some got in is by the engine exhaust and if I'm spraying enough to see it come out the exhaust, is that to much?
 

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