Acid based prespray?

BIG WOOD

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Is there a prespray with the same ph as the acid rinse that's made for soil removal? Here is my thoughts:

I just finished cleaning some AstroTurf that farm animals walk on for shows For the 3rd time.
Here's my process I used:
-prevac
-soak in acid
-HWE
-spray enzymes
Next Day: wasn't needed but I went back
-sprayed more enzymes

The soil isn't normal traffic oils attaching to the fibers. It's just poop, urine, and loose dirt. My main dilemma was the urine, because it's so much from 300 farm animals. Prevacumming got the most of the soil, but I needed that little oomf to get the remainder. My main problem was the urine of course, so I soaked it with acid. My time and saving chemicals was what I was fighting, because it was a 6hr job, and a huge square footage. I could've just used a whole case of enzymes, or acid, dwell, then prespray normal traffic cleaner, and HWE, but I would've lost 2hrs of time plus spent extra money on chems.

So is there an acid based prespray with a ph of around 3 to break down urine salts AND has surfactants in it to suspend the remaining soil in the carpet? Or is there a neutral surfactant I can add to my acid rinse? I think that would save us so much time for the carpets that don't need an alkaline treatment.
 

Nomad74

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Dolly Llama

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stop over thinking it
it's fookin stockyard, not a church dinner fellowship hall

nuke it with this


upload_2018-2-20_21-31-41.jpeg


and flush/rinse extract with whatever juice de jour you use

or continue to pi$$ in the wind

only PITA about OC, it won't spray well thru electric diaphragm pump sprayers due to o2 bubble cavitation

or order a case of Cobblets peroxide


.L.T.A.
 
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Hack Attack

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Theres a ton of neutral emulsifying detergents in the hard floor care arena, they can foam like a muzza so you'd have to play with dilutions...
If I was to have a "hack" at this I'd go cheapest acid rinse as a prespray (most will have surfactants)with a healthy glug of peroxide let dwell.. then extract with an ammonia based rinse (chemspec, cleanrite used to have them dunno what you have anymore) Your concern aint premature resoiling just appearance and smell I take it
 

BIG WOOD

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You’ll need more than a case
Get four
My reason exactly for this thread. The job isn't profitable enough to add over $200 worth of chemicals on it. And keep in mind, this isn't like the average pet urine job in a house with normal carpet where my wand has a good connection.

Astroturf is different than normal carpet when it comes to the wand getting a good vacuum connection. It feels like I'm sucking hardly any water up, compared to the normal poly we clean over. So I need to use a method that has the ability to break down the major amount of urine salts and soil at the same time, unlike our residential jobs, where we have time to do another room, or clean upholstery while it dwells...the whole place is urine infested, so I can't just go out to the truck and waste an 1-2hours of my time.

And, unlike you, who can just go out to the van to waste an hour of your time...I don't like to waste over an hour on a job. Time is money. Buying extra cases of chemicals and letting it "eat bacteria" for an hour or more is a waste of time and money. Just get the proper acid application to quickly break it down, rinse it out, and spray a good coat of enzymes AFTER it's been cleaned to give it all the time needed at NO EXTRA COST.
 

BIG WOOD

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Theres a ton of neutral emulsifying detergents in the hard floor care arena, they can foam like a muzza so you'd have to play with dilutions...
If I was to have a "hack" at this I'd go cheapest acid rinse as a prespray (most will have surfactants)with a healthy glug of peroxide let dwell.. then extract with an ammonia based rinse (chemspec, cleanrite used to have them dunno what you have anymore) Your concern aint premature resoiling just appearance and smell I take it
I used Harvard's rinse on this one, so I'm not sure if it has any surfactants in it. @Mark Saiger might know. My main concern on this one is preventing return of urine odor. It looked great every time I cleaned it. I think it might look a little better if I had more surfactants added.
 

BIG WOOD

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How many times have you cleaned something like this? I'm just brainstorming, trying to find an easier, quicker and effective way to get all this pig piss flushed out.
 

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Dolly Llama

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Matt, there are two kinds of effective urine treatments commonly available

enzyme digesters and oxidizers

on a job that size, I'd expect no reason you can't get hour dwell minimum.
you hose down the areas where pig population is heaviest and start cleaning sections of less/no pigPop




trying to find an easier, quicker and effective way

and cheaper

$20 bukz for a box of Oxyclean will make 20+ gal of RTU oxidizer pre-spray

a gal of Fabuloso in the mix tank metered @ 3 GPM and call it good

drop some fans to get it dry
Pick them up and your check two days later

and note on the invoice that they're idiots if they think carpeted stall cleaning can be done cheaply and effectively

..L.T.A.
 
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Wow sounds like quite the job! I'm curious just how to clean something like that as well. Isn't Astroturd just a rubber or plastic type compound? I thought that stuff had drain holes for hosing down? Enzyme seems to be the only most effective and time efficient way but then there goes the cost.
 

Nomad74

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How many times have you cleaned something like this? I'm just brainstorming, trying to find an easier, quicker and effective way to get all this pig piss flushed out.
Only had a pig piss soaked room once. I flushed it with judson quat-a-lot. Worked good.
 
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Lint Basket

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Matt, there are plenty of acid pre-sprays for upholstery around 3-4 ph. Also Tom Forsythe (Interlink/Aramsco) just reformulated TCU and it now has hydrocide added. It's now called Urine Neutralizer.


Urine Neutralizer
Neutralizer, Decontaminates, and Rinses Out Urine

Item No. CS20GL

New and Improved Urine Neutralizing Treatment
Urine Neutralizer is the premier urine neutralizer and decontamination solution for difficult-to-treat urine stains. It's primary ingredient, citric acid, neutralizes alkaline urine salts and also eliminates odors caused by bacteria. Surfactants and other agents help deliver the citric acid deep into the carpet pad to ensure thorough flushing and removal of urine salts, proteins, and fats.

8 neutralizing/cleaning agents dissolve urine salts, remove decontamination, and eliminate odors.

Urine Neutralizer can be used by itself to clean and neutralize fresh, or easy-to-remove, urine stains, or it can be used in conjunction with Bio-Modifier Xtreme and Urine Stain Remover for those extreme urine damage, especially in cases where the urine is months, or years old. These urine stains are often extremely difficult to remove as chemical decomposition, and the extreme alkalinity, create a multitude of chemical compounds that need to be removed and the urine will often "dye" dyeable carpet such as nylon or wool.



  • Complete urine decontamination
  • Dissolves and removes alkaline salt deposits
  • Enhances the performance and speeds up the process of all enzymatic products including Bio-Charge and Bio-Modifier Xtreme
  • Botanical citric acid also aids in removing odors typically associated with bacteria


Dilution Ratios: 1:4 RTU pH: 2.8-3.5 Contains: 1 gallon
 
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BIG WOOD

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Matt, there are plenty of acid pre-sprays for upholstery around 3-4 ph. Also Tom Forsythe (Interlink/Aramsco) just reformulated TCU and it now has hydrocide added. It's now called Urine Neutralizer.


Urine Neutralizer
Neutralizer, Decontaminates, and Rinses Out Urine
Item No. CS20GL

New and Improved Urine Neutralizing Treatment
Urine Neutralizer is the premier urine neutralizer and decontamination solution for difficult-to-treat urine stains. It's primary ingredient, citric acid, neutralizes alkaline urine salts and also eliminates odors caused by bacteria. Surfactants and other agents help deliver the citric acid deep into the carpet pad to ensure thorough flushing and removal of urine salts, proteins, and fats.

8 neutralizing/cleaning agents dissolve urine salts, remove decontamination, and eliminate odors.

Urine Neutralizer can be used by itself to clean and neutralize fresh, or easy-to-remove, urine stains, or it can be used in conjunction with Bio-Modifier Xtreme and Urine Stain Remover for those extreme urine damage, especially in cases where the urine is months, or years old. These urine stains are often extremely difficult to remove as chemical decomposition, and the extreme alkalinity, create a multitude of chemical compounds that need to be removed and the urine will often "dye" dyeable carpet such as nylon or wool.



  • Complete urine decontamination
  • Dissolves and removes alkaline salt deposits
  • Enhances the performance and speeds up the process of all enzymatic products including Bio-Charge and Bio-Modifier Xtreme
  • Botanical citric acid also aids in removing odors typically associated with bacteria


Dilution Ratios: 1:4 RTU pH: 2.8-3.5 Contains: 1 gallon
That’s what I’ve been looking for. Thanks for the link.
 

Larry Cobb

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If you are looking for the most economical prespray solution for urine/fecal contamination,

I would use a powder oxidizer with alkaline prespray.

The Oxidizer would break down the contamination and reduce the microbial count significantly.

That would be Powder Brightener in the Dynachem line.

A step up from there would be Odor Attack which adds an actual Enzyme to the mix.

http://www.cobbcarpet.com/zen/index...earch_in_description=1&keyword=DCPB8+or+DCOA6
 
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BIG WOOD

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If you are looking for the most economical prespray solution for urine/fecal contamination,

I would use a powder oxidizer with alkaline prespray.

The Oxidizer would break down the contamination and reduce the microbial count significantly.

That would be Powder Brightener in the Dynachem line.

A step up from there would be Odor Attack which adds an actual Enzyme to the mix.

http://www.cobbcarpet.com/zen/index...earch_in_description=1&keyword=DCPB8+or+DCOA6
I like adding that to my prespray for normal organic spots and soil, but for heavily contaminated carpet all over 3000sq ft??? How much would I have to add to my HF each time I refill it? I’m assuming at least 8oz. Then I’d be dealing with it all bubbling out at that amount.

I agree with that product attacking the problem, but the process to mix would be a headache
 

Larry Cobb

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I don't know how contaminated this carpet is . . .

but 6 oz./ gal. in a larger container should be workable.

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