Help with watts regulator

[alazo1]

I have a maxx 470. The last step injection crapped out months ago. I wanted something more simple. I spoke to Les and he said to put in a ball valve and t before the water enters the pump from the water box. Because of space restrains I thought a watts regulator would do the same. It does work but when I do tile and grout the pressure drops significantly.

I think I'm doing something wrong. I do open the valve all the way when doing tg but still see too much drop in pressure. It's a 1/2 regulator.Once I put the hose from the water box to the pump back all is well so I know it's not the pump.

Any ideas?

 

[FredC]

Internal design limiting flow and starving the pump under T&G demand?

 

[Connor]

What does the valve on the regulator say about it's working pressure?

 

[alazo1]

What does the valve on the regulator say about it's working pressure?

I believe it's 3-50 psi.

 

[Shane T]

Why do you need the chem injection while T&G cleaning?

 

[FredC]

He doesn't ...that is why he opens the valve completely. When carpet cleaning he would close it a little to starve the pump and force it to draw solution through a tee.

 

[alazo1]

Thanks for the help so far.

I really suck at this. I ditched the watts and followed Fred's diagram which is what Les suggested. I have no problem now with enough flow at high psi except now I don't get siphon. If I take the 1/4" clear tube out it spits water. I adjust the gate valve to almost closed but it's still happening. Here's a pic.

 

[idreadnought]

If you want simple then buy a hydrominder proportioning valve and use it as your mix tank float valve. It is such a simple design with almost no issues what so ever. Use the watts regulator before the hydrominder valve and your chemical draw will be very consistant

 

[Mikey P]

I'm worried.


last time Albert modified his truckmount 32 acres of San Jose went up in smoke

 

[FredC]

oh shit...I forgot that was him BOOM

seriously though it is likely do to the plumbing

since you are on the low pressure side and the water box is elevated (pressure) it is likely enough to overcome any need for "make up" supply...especially since your plumbing (2 90s) could create a "block"....think "least resistance....I'm f'd up or I could probably explain it better

also is there a foot valve


I'll check out the 470 tomorrow so your pic makes sense