KevinL
Supportive Member
Is this safe and effective for cleaning grout? I tried to get a big spa the other day and she says her grandson is cleaning the 2500+ feet of grout with muratic acid. Any hazards I should warn them of? Thanks.
Muratic acid for grout?
- Thread starter KevinL
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Hoody
Supportive Member
It definitely does the job. Its HIGHLY corrosive....and cleaning a large area with it is going to require a lot of ventilation. Make sure they use proper PPE when dealing with the acid, it will eat through skin, muscle tissue, even bone.
sweendogg
Member
I'd let Shaun chime in here, but most acid side cleaners designed to etch the top layer of grout, typically are quite a bit less potent than the say 6% or so of Hydrochloric acid that makes up most muriatic acids. The acid is going to keep working until its reacted with enough material to neutralize the formula. So more acid the better chance you could weaken the entire grout joint rather than etching off simply the top layer.
Most grout should be cleaned on the alkaline side for the soils and if its sealed from the get go and maintained correctly, an acid side cleaning should be reserved for a professional cleaning and only after an alkaline cleaning has been performed.
Also Acid is only for porcelain and ceramic with a sanded grout, can't remember off top of head if it reacts badly with the epoxy grouts on the market but I don't remember them being very favorable.
And Acid is a big no no for calcium based stones. Acid etches and Alkaline cleans the oils.. guess its depends on how badly the customer wants to redo their grout down the road.
Most grout should be cleaned on the alkaline side for the soils and if its sealed from the get go and maintained correctly, an acid side cleaning should be reserved for a professional cleaning and only after an alkaline cleaning has been performed.
Also Acid is only for porcelain and ceramic with a sanded grout, can't remember off top of head if it reacts badly with the epoxy grouts on the market but I don't remember them being very favorable.
And Acid is a big no no for calcium based stones. Acid etches and Alkaline cleans the oils.. guess its depends on how badly the customer wants to redo their grout down the road.
If you and your customer survive that much exposure to muratic acid you will be lucky. Try using a Urea Hydrochloride based acid, does the job and much less toxic (viper renew) Try this thread on Dirtygrout.com http://www.dirtygrout.com/forums/showth ... light=urea
rwcarpet
Supportive Member
Go with an enzyme based pre-spray. Ask John Olson for some recomendations. SteamWay and CTI has such a pre-spray.
rhino1
Member
I have used muriatic on plenty of grout with no problems. You almost have to have an acid side cleaner for applications where you have calciium-lime-hardwater buildup. The acid will etch grout and is a lifesaver when your alkaline cleaners won't cut it - which is pretty often. I play with the dilutions of acid to water starting at 1 to 20 until I get the desired result.
Muriatic is used in cleaning and to balance the PH of pools, it is dirt cheap. It will off-gas and reacts violently with water. It will destroy stainless steel. The gas is highly corrosive and will cause all kinds of nasty respiratory problems if you use it in enclosed areas.
It will ruin natural stone. There are safer acid cleaners/etchers available. Phosphoric or sulfamic I think..... but none I have found as effective or affordable as the $6/gallon muriatic.
Muriatic is used in cleaning and to balance the PH of pools, it is dirt cheap. It will off-gas and reacts violently with water. It will destroy stainless steel. The gas is highly corrosive and will cause all kinds of nasty respiratory problems if you use it in enclosed areas.
It will ruin natural stone. There are safer acid cleaners/etchers available. Phosphoric or sulfamic I think..... but none I have found as effective or affordable as the $6/gallon muriatic.
Really don't f with that crap. Sure its cheap and works awesome. It is absolutely not worth the risks in using it to save a buck. Use the brands that are made to use on T&G. They are not nearly as dangerous to you or the surroundings. Still mask off any stainless to save the argument here of whether it can be fixed or not.
