My Apex will only run in the override position..

[Able 1]

To get through last week we wired the switch so we would bypass all of the shut down sensors..

So far I have:
Replaced the shut down relay
Jumped the wires to the waste tank switch
Replaced the solution pump switch
Changed the oil pressure switch(from my other Apex that runs)
Changed the high temp switch

Am I missing something?

 

[dgardner]

Any chance you actually have a low oil pressure situation rather than a bad switch?

 

[Able 1]

As I was poking around I found this gem!!

Hope this is it!!!!!

 

[Able 1]

Nope..

 

[Able 1]

Any chance you actually have a low oil pressure situation rather than a bad switch?

Could be how would I test that?

 

[dgardner]

Both the low oil pressure and engine high-temp switch work by grounding their terminals to kill the engine. Unplug the sender wires from both, and don't let the wires touch ground. If either one is the problem the engine will continue to run once you release the override switch. Then with the engine running plug them back in one at a time. The problem sensor will kill the engine.

If it's the oil pressure switch, most I have seen are standard 1/8" or 1/4" pipe threads. You can buy an oil pressure test gauge from a good auto parts store that will thread right into the port.

 

[dgardner]

Harbor freight has a test kit...

http://www.harborfreight.com/engine-oil-pressure-test-kit-98949.html

 

[dgardner]

Do you have the Kubota WG750 gas engine? The manual says the oil pressure switch will trip below 7psi.

 

[Able 1]

I disconnected both of them, no change..

 

[Able 1]

WG972-es

 

[GeneMiller]

One of the wires going to one of your sensors may have a worn spot causing it to ground out. Trace them all. The best way to find a shutdown code is to remove only one at a time. if disconnecting it doesn't fix it I would leave it connected. I would also use a meter. You can check for continuity and if something is grounding out when it should or shouldn't. Look for a wire that's chaffed and touching.

Gene

 

[Able 1]

I did one at a time, it has that black wrap around the wires.. Though I will take another look..

This thing HAS to be ready to rock monday! I'm replacing my water pump,and adjusted my belts while I have it ripped apart..

 

[Ralph Pastorelli]

Call me crazy but try cleaning the sensors in the waste tank really well.

 

[Able 1]

I bypassed that switch.. and the full waste tank light is on in front of tm..

 

[GeneMiller]

I had two wires inside all that wrapping that had rubbed together enough to lose its shield. I ended up making an entire new harness. I got all the colored wires from wire barn and made it myself. It was slow and tedious but I got it done. My neighbor had the tool to crimp the ends before inserting in some of the special plugs. I was able to buy most of the plugs I needed from batts racing. It has to be a sensor or a wire in my eyes. Definitely where I would start. If it's a sensor removing them one at a time will locate it. If it's a wire that won't work but will tell you it's not a sensor. You can also test the sensors with a meter. They should all be open except the float which you've already solved. The spot can be so small it's easily missed because you have to look all the way around each wire.

Gene

 

[Able 1]

I have a feeling it's a bad wire.. Here is the story:
I left to go on vacation for the forth on Thursday of that week,and the next morning my guys said the engine wouldn't start. I came back to 3 blown breakers on the curcuit that hack job wire was on,batt was dead and I wasn't getting power to all the posts on the ignition switch even when turning the key (just one). I change the ignition switch and I had power..

 

[D Luke]

I definitely cant help, but good luck with your trouble shooting.

This is one of the reasons I decided to buy the new 1200. Only two sensors to worry about. Waste tank and coolant temp.

 

[dgardner]

the full waste tank light is on in front of tm..

Keith - the only way for the tank full light to come on is if the shutdown relay is energized, and the only way for that to happen is if the wire leading to the oil pressure switch and high temp switch is grounded. If it's not one of the two sensors doing the grounding then I agree this definitely points to that wire shorted to ground somewhere along its length. I would trace that wire first.

 

[Able 1]

No water box on the 1200?

 

[Mike Draper]

maybe the float went bad and is shorting out. Try unplugging the float in the waste tank.

 

[D Luke]

No water box on the 1200?

Nope. No water box. No hot water to the pump. No hot water to the waste tank. Beautiful in it's simplicity. The new 1200 SE anyway. Don't know much about the old 1200.

 

[Able 1]

Keith - the only way for the tank full light to come on is if the shutdown relay is energized, and the only way for that to happen is if the wire leading to the oil pressure switch and high temp switch is grounded. If it's not one of the two sensors doing the grounding then I agree this definitely points to that wire shorted to ground somewhere along its length. I would trace that wire first.

Nice Dan, I wasn't think of it that way.. Lots of stuff going on here.. That's why I posted it. So, you think it will be a wire on the shut down circuit or just a random wire going to ground?

Thanks!

 

[SamIam]

my 405 did the same thing the wire to the cat pump broke. only run in over ride with the switch held. because my diverter handle wasnt holding the off switch for the heat exchanger need a wire fixed and the heat exchanger handle ajusted. probably wireing like you said.

 

[dgardner]

Keith - the only way for the tank full light to come on is if the shutdown relay is energized, and the only way for that to happen is if the wire leading to the oil pressure switch and high temp switch is grounded. If it's not one of the two sensors doing the grounding then I agree this definitely points to that wire shorted to ground somewhere along its length. I would trace that wire first.

Ah shoot - disregard that - I was looking at the wrong lamp - what I said above would apply to the check engine light - not the tank full light... Sorry.

 

[Able 1]

Nope. No water box. No hot water to the pump. No hot water to the waste tank. Beautiful in it's simplicity. The new 1200 SE anyway. Don't know much about the old 1200.

Sounds great, let us know if you need our help..

 

[Able 1]

my 405 did the same thing the wire to the cat pump broke. only run in over ride with the switch held. because my diverter handle wasnt holding the off switch for the heat exchanger need a wire fixed and the heat exchanger handle ajusted. probably wireing like you said.

OMG I just took the pump off and for some reason they pinned the pump clutch wire under the pump.. I'll check that out..

 

[dgardner]

OK - Hopefully I looked at the correct wiring this time. Looking at the harness that the tank full switch plugs into - when the tank is full the switch connects the wht/red wire to the wht/grn to light the lamp. If the tank level is OK then the switch connects the wht/red wire to the grn wire. So - to bypass the switch you would unplug the connector and put a jumper between wht/red and green. Hopefully that's what you did to bypass it.

If your pump clutch wire was pinched to the point of grounding out it would probably (hopefully!) trip the water pump circuit breaker.

 

[Able 1]

Clutch wire is good..

 

[Able 1]

Yes, the white wires are connected..

 

[dgardner]

Clutch wire is good..

Not for much longer if you hadn't found it.....