OBD 2 port

[1900 North]

My 2007 UD 1400 went into limp mode Friday afternoon. Can anyone tell me where I can find the OBD 2 port in the cab of the truck? Went to Auto Zone and they couldn’t find it. Looked through the owners manual without success. I’d like to pull the engines codes and find the problem. Thanks!

 

[Nomad74]

My 2007 UD 1400 went into limp mode Friday afternoon. Can anyone tell me where I can find the OBD 2 port in the cab of the truck? Went to Auto Zone and they couldn’t find it. Looked through the owners manual without success. I’d like to pull the engines codes and find the problem. Thanks!

Hope this helps

 

[Liftacheek]

Did you ever figure this out? My '07 went into limp mode and haven't a clue why. What was the remedy?

 

[dealtimeman]

More than likely either your cam magnetic sensor is bad,cam sensor wires are damaged or your Turbo module/actuator is bad.

The hino engine is really good.

An autozon will more than likely not be able to pull codes and would need to the dealership for diagnosis.

 

[dealtimeman]

Any smoke?

If yes what color?

 

[Nomad74]

This guy dissapeared.

 

[Liftacheek]

I tried Autozone and they scratched their heads and said that they can’t read my codes. The OBD2 port only has 3 wires going to it and a hand full of bullet style connectors on the same wiring loom. I guess only a UD dealer or a Hino dealer is able to read those codes. I got the check engine flash code but nobody wants to tell me what it means. It’s flash code 35. The truck doesn’t smoke and runs OK until about 1500 RPMs. Top speed is 50 mph with the best of conditions. It still sucks carpet like a mother… But getting to from job to job it’s a real pain in the arse. i’ve tried unplugging every sensor One at a time, and the flash code gives me that sensor fault plus the same 35 sensor code. I can hear the turbo start to wind up but the engine computer shuts it down before I get any power. I love the Hino and the Vortex but I’m losing faith in the UD!

 

[FredC]

I got the check engine flash code but nobody wants to tell me what it means. It’s flash code 35

Not sure how correct t this is

https://www.justanswer.com/medium-a...-2300-flash-fault-code-35-need-diagnosic.html

 

[Liftacheek]

Just a random thought… Is there any possibility that worn out brakes would cause the truck to go into limp mode?

 

[Liftacheek]

Just a random thought… Is there any possibility that worn out brakes would cause the truck to go into limp mode?

 

[Hack Attack]

they can put sensors in places you wouldnt expect..

more likely to be Freds post above than brakes

 

[Liftacheek]

That code says that it is a exhaust temperature sensor. The only problem is, there doesn’t seem to be any exhaust temperature sensors on the truck. From the exhaust pipe all the way to The turbo, there’s no sensors, no wires… Nothing. I can’t find anything on the manifold nor the crossover pipe to goes to the other side of the engine to the EGR. No sensors anywhere.

I just don’t trust that list of codes, because I have pulled the wires going to the EGR valve and it trips a flash code that, when I go to that list, has absolutely nothing to do with an EGR. Something about fuel pressure sensor right to bank. I don’t have a right Bank… I have an in-line 4. It must be a list of codes for the larger UD trucks.

 

[dealtimeman]

Different truck.

 

[1900 North]

Heck, I was surprised to see this resurface. No, I haven’t gone away. The limp mode issue with my 2007 UD was solved with a new fuel filter.

 

[Liftacheek]

So I talked to the UD Trucks service guy/guru from Texas and said that my flash code of 35 means there is a problem with the pre stroke sensor. I have no idea what that is except it has something to do with the fuel system. I didn't see any wiring problems with the connectors/sensors on the fuel pump. I had a problem with low power a month ago and it was a plugged fuel filter (no flash codes), changed it and was good to go! Now this! Any chance they are related? Benchmark, did you have any flash codes associated with your fuel filter?

 

[1900 North]

We never got any codes pulled as Auto Zone couldn’t find the OBD port. I started researching different diesel forums on the web and it sort of pointed me to the fuel filter. The truck ran fine at a constant 1700 rpm while cleaning, but going to the next job, as I was merging into traffic, I lost almost all power. I was asking for more fuel than the filter would allow and suddenly I was in limp mode.
A tank or two of bad diesel fuel can clog a filter pretty quickly. You might see if another fuel filter helps for a short time. If it does, get the tank and lines cleaned out and try again. Perhaps try a different fueling station and hope for cleaner fuel. Hope this helps!
Just re-read your post. Your engine issues sound very much like mine.
These little Hino engines are remarkable. I’ve run mine for 10 years now and outside of changing fluids and filters regularly (except the fuel filter apparently), flushing the coolant system, having the valves adjusted twice and changing belts when needed, it performs flawlessly.

 

[Liftacheek]

Well, after running fuel system cleaner through it and a new fuel filter, I’m still getting code 35. It starts and purrs like a kitten and before the check engine light clicks on and throws it into limp mode, it will revel up to nearly 3000 RPMs without a problem. What am I overlooking?

 

[dealtimeman]

So the motor runs fine at idle and while not in gear?

In other words will the Truckmount run just fine all the way up to normal Cleaning rpm?

 

[Liftacheek]

So the Vortex side of the machine still works fabulous! It revs up to 1700 rpms without hesitation and creates rippin hot water and a mountain of vacuum. While at the job, you would never know that there is a problem with the truck. And this all goes on while the truck in in limp mode with the CEL on. Roll your hoses up and throw it in gear and for a second or two it acts normal until it hits around 1700 rpms and the truck wont deliver much more power up to 2000 rpms when it limits the revs. I can hear the turbo start to spool up but before it can do much, the computer says "Ain't gunna happen!" Meanwhile (especially getting on the freeway) you are getting the "glare" from the guys that were behind you, a few horn honks and periodically the finger. Jerks! Not one of them has ever offered to push!

Its like the transmission is waiting for higher revs to switch into the next gear, so you have to stop mashing the pedal to get the tranny to move to the next gear...and you mash it again just to get across the intersection...throw on the hazards and wave 'em around you! Just for giggles, I'd been driving down the road and turned off the truck, reset the CEL, fired it back up and gave it all she has and for about 2 seconds, it moves like it should...until the computer starts crying. Same thing at idle.

 

[dealtimeman]

It sounds like a cam sensor issue.

It can’t determine load or engine speed so it defaults to the deranged tune and runs on that because of the lack of correct signal input coming from the damaged sensor.

I will look at mine and see if I can locate where the sensor is on the hino engine.

 

[Liftacheek]

And another thing I noticed. This morning I went out to the truck and cleared the code, turned the key all the way on without starting it and waited the 2-3 seconds it usually takes to trip the code. I quickly started it and instantly the code was there. So that tells me that it doesn't have to be running to trigger the limp mode. I don't know how many sensors that would rule out, but at least it sounds like there isn't a mechanical issue with the truck! Maybe an issue with the mechanic!

 

[dealtimeman]

There are 2 sensors around the flywheel housing, check wiring for damage.

Next would be to ohm them out to check if they have failed.

Both sensors only have 1 screw holding each.

 

[dealtimeman]

Need to check the wiring to 41 and 42 for damage.

Start here.

 

[Liftacheek]

Well, I reached my breaking point! I hopped into the truck and made the grueling trip in Limp Mode to the Hino service center and got the codes read. As Dealtimeman said in the beginning, its the turbo VNT actuator/module. So naturally, I'm skeptical and have a distrust of repair shops and so after I made the painful trip home, I decided to test their diagnosis. From the underside of the truck, I accessed the rod from the actuator and disconnected it and tried to move it. It is supposed to move up and back down quite freely. After some jiggling, it broke free and is working great. The problem is, the module that controls it doesn't move. It must be burned out and apparently, I'm forced to buy a whole new turbo because the turbo and module aren't sold separately. So I unplugged the connector to the module and it is getting 12v and on one pin and some low volt readings on 2 other pins and a ground. So for sure its getting signal but refuses to move. Also, I was getting code 35 on the dash (by grounding the wire labled "E" on the wiring harness next to the OBD2 port) and with the connection to the module unplugged, I was getting 8 flashes and no more 35. So Im guessing that 8 means that there is no signal to the module and 35 must mean that the module isn't functioning within parameters. Any idea what a new turbo is going to set me back?

 

[dealtimeman]

Here you go make sure it is the correct one.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Hino-Truck...rentrq:ae16c5041620ab66ad3f259cfffb8479|iid:1

AGAIN CONFIRM THIS IS THE CORRECT ONE FOR YOUR TRUCK, DO NOT ORDER WITHOUT BEING 100% sure.

Let me know.

 

[dealtimeman]

After more digging I think this might be the correct one

But again you need to confirm your part number off of your Turbo

This actuator is for Garrett Turbo GT3571KLNV

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Nissan-UD-...639965?hash=item3b01491fdd:g:NmsAAOSwCMtagqQF


The one listed above I believe is for a j08 motor not a j05 motor and thus is for a GTA3576KLNV turbo.

I would message that company on Ebay and give them the year,model, and engine info off you truck and have them cross check it for you.

Also have someone that know how a good non-worn turbo shaft Is supposed to feel and check it for you as you may need to replace both the Turbo and the controller. The company that has the listing should be able to help you with this.

 

[dealtimeman]

Also if Turbo needs to come out of truck to get actuator out just go ahead and send the Turbo to have it rebuilt.

You will love the power one you get it back,it should feel like a new truck again.

 

[Liftacheek]

So I've decided to dig this one up from the grave! I waited for some time to update because I wanted to make sure I got it right. A couple years ago I had some turbo problems and I was unable to figure it out. If you read above, you will learn more of my pain! I wanted to follow up on this post just in case some other poor fool has the same problems because there is a serious lack of information and technical support on these UD trucks(on purpose I'm sure). A quick run down...truck went into limp mode and wouldn't give it the power it needs. Check engine light flashes 35 and I learned that its the turbo actuator having problems. Some awesome members here had some great ideas and valuable input. I so appreciate it! So here is what has happened since. 2007 UD 1400 Vortex H.A.T. (made in Arizona)

The Hino dealer told me how long the truck was going to be down for repairs and I thought that that was unacceptable. I'd lose more $ than the cost of the turbo. So I thought, "lets see what I can accomplish over the weekend". I had my 6yr old son climb in the cab and cycle the key (without starting it) and see what the turbo actuator would do. It would move but I could easily stop it with my finger. So upon closer inspection, I noticed that the "C" clip that holds the push rod on the turbo was missing, causing the rod to bind a bit because it wasn't lined up where it was supposed to be. So I took it off and lightly sanded the surfaces and reassembled it with some high temp nickel grease and a $.39 clip and I was back in the game! Woo Hoo! Well, that lasted about 6 months and I was back to square one again with code 35.....AAAAAARRRRGGGGHHHHH!!!!! The next available weekend I was up to my elbows in grease again with no new ideas, only determination. Clip was still on there and grease looked good. 6yr old son back in the cab and cycling the key for me. The actuator would barely travel half an inch during the cycle and I could easily stop it with my finger. I had read on another forum (maybe a tow truck forum) that the turbos on these trucks rarely have problems and it almost always is the actuator. So I tried to be brave and dig into the actuator to see what I can find. Pulled it off the turbo, cracked it open and I could see where one of the pins on the inside connector looked a bit burned. It tells me that there was a lot of juice sent to the actuator without results. I cleaned up the pins and applied dielectric grease to the connections. Then I tried to move the electric motor and could barely move it using pliers. "That doesn't seem right!" so I put on my big boy pants and opened the motor and "HOLY CRAP" there is the problem! It turns out that the motor armature was slightly rubbing on the side of the magnets inside and the more it would rub, the more magnetic metal shavings would come off. It was completely jammed up with metal shavings. I cleaned it all up and reassembled the motor but unsure if there was a certain alignment or gear position it should be in. Turns out it doesn't matter! I think that the computer learns the new parameters. Put everything back together and had my son cycle the key again. BIG difference! You cannot stop the actuator with your finger and be careful to not lose your finger! Its been a year and a half and not so much as a hiccup! I hope somebody some day finds this post and helps them out!

 

[Liftacheek]

I was so excited to put it back together, that I forgot to take pictures of the gummed up motor assembly. Oops!

 

[Kenny Hayes]

Nice. That’s this planet though