oxidizers and reducers

MicahR

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Micah Richardson
I tried searching quite a few different ways and came up with nothing.

I think it was a post a while back explaining the difference between oxidizers and reducers and when to use both.

I can't remember if it was a collaboration of different contributors or if it was written by one person.

Does anyone have the link or a pdf file?

I thought I had a copy but can't find it.

Thanks for the help.
 

Royal Man

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Dave Yoakum
An easy way to remember its that Oxidizers are for natural dye stains. (urine, furniture stains, coffee)Heat can cause bleaching.

Reducers are for synthetic dyes(Koolade)The 2 parts need some heat to activate the reducer.Some cleaners think it works by heat transfer when it is only heat activated.

The best steamer I have ever found this they can't burn and there is no towel needed:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mWKwCE0gZYw

Watch for them on E-bay. You can usually pick them up for around $25.00
 

Hoody

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Shawn Forsythe said:
Oxidizers and Reducers
A short clinic on the differentiation and use in spotting.
Presented at Mikefest 2008


Preface
Stain Guides are the preferred means for directed activity when using any reducers or oxidizers. This is because individual chemistry of reactants and accelerants vary between manufacturers of prepared products. These guides take into account these variances and give individual instruction to process so as to avoid unpredictable results.

As a general rule, spots should always be cleaned using an emulsification or solvent extraction to remove all removable components aside from actual chemical action. Heat and acidity should be avoided to ensure that spots which are not set, do not evolve into stains which are more difficult to address.

What creates color in a chemical (stain or spot)?

Chemicals that exhibit a color do so because a part of the molecules interact with light to absorb certain wavelengths, or to reflect them. They can also alter wavelengths, so that a color, which is not present in the incident light, is reflected back as changed to another color. If a chemical substance exhibits a color, the portion of the molecule that exhibits the color is called a “chromophore”:

Certain molecules have an affinity to fibers, either due to physical properties, such as stickiness, particle shape, or by an electro-chemical bond. Emulsifier and solvent textile cleaning is used to break physical bonds, and suspend soil(spot) elements in water or some other solvent, so that it can be extracted by vacuum or abs
orption(towel).

These cleaning process are sometimes ineffective if the spot contains a staining element. A staining element is a portion of the spot, which cannot be removed by emulsification or solvent cleaning.

One means to “clear” a staining element is by bleaching. A bleach alters the stain element’s chromophore in such a manner as it becomes colorless.

Types of Bleaches
There are several types of bleach, but most fall into two classes. That being oxidizes and reducers. Oxidizers either add oxygen or gain electrons from a reactant, while reducers remove oxygen or lose electrons to the reactant.

Chlorine bleach usually contains sodium hypochlorite. However, due to problems with fiber degradation, unpredictable results, and residual activity, sodium hypochlorite is almost never used in carpet or upholstery spotting.

Oxygen bleach contains hydrogen peroxide or a peroxide-releasing compound such as sodium perborate or sodium percarbonate. Other bleaching agents include sodium persulfate, sodium perphosphate, sodium persilicate, their ammonium, potassium and lithium analogs, calcium peroxide, zinc peroxide, sodium peroxide, carbamide peroxide, chlorine dioxide, bromate, and organic peroxides (e.g., benzoyl peroxide).
Most oxygen bleaches work best in hot water. Additives such as tetra acetyl ethylene diamine allow the hydrogen peroxide to work in warm water (50° C).

While most bleaches are oxidizing agents, other processes can be used to remove color. For example, sodium dithionite is a powerful reducing agent that can be used as a bleach.

How a bleach works
Oxidizing bleaches like hydrogen peroxide break the molecules at the double bond of a chromophore. This results in either a shorter molecule that does not absorb visible light, or a molecule whose chromophore is either shorter or non-existent. A shorter chromophore will absorb light of a shorter wavelength than visible light (such as ultraviolet light), and so does not appear colored.
Reducing bleaches such as sodium bisulfite or sulfur dioxide, convert the double bonds in the chromophore into single bonds, eliminating its ability to absorb visible light. Sometimes the reaction is reversible, where oxygen in the air reacts with the molecule to repair the chromophore, and the stain returns.
In addition to chemicals, energy can disrupt chemical bonds to bleach out color. For example, the high-energy photons in sunlight (e.g., ultraviolet rays) can disrupt the bonds in chromophores to decolorize them.
Several molecular structures and physical phenomena give rise to color or darkening on a fiber. Molecular structures containing conjugated centers of unsaturation (double bonds) such as phenols and carbonyls all cause vibration of bonds by light wavelengths, shifting absorption of light from the invisible or colorless ultraviolet range to the visible light range. By breaking up the conjugated system, colored compounds become colorless, i.e. stains become invisible. This can be accomplished by breaking or saturating the double bonds. The carbonyl groups can be reduced to alcohols, or oxidized to carboxylic acids, both colorless compounds.

When to Bleach
Bleaching is done when physical removal and emulsification cleaning has ceased to be effective at rendering a satisfactory removal of the spot. It is said that a spot becomes a stain when chemical alteration of the spot element is required to render the spot non-conspicuous. This does not always mean removal. Bleaching often means simple alteration of the spot element to no longer visible. The spot may still be there, but is no longer able to be seen.

The type of stain will help to determine if bleaching will be effective. Fresh stains of an organic nature with very little penetration into the fibers or pigmentation are usually successfully removed by cleaning methods without the use of bleaching. As a rule of thumb, stains, which have been in a fabric for more than three months, are usually considered 'set'. This means that usually they have successfully bonded, or reacted with the fibers to an extent that the substance is not removable or alterable.

How to Bleach
Both oxidizing bleaches and reducer bleaches are either sold as two part components, or 1-part solutions utilize the actual staining element as part of the activation media.
Oxidizing compounds are generally unstable. So packaging of product is done to minimize the off gassing of oxygen during storage. This is often accomplished through maintaining purity of relatively stable compositions, and then adding destabilizers to then cause the oxidizer to liberate the elemental oxygen, that is then free to react with the staining element.
Using a small amount of an alkaline (such as ammonia) to an oxidizer causes the release of greater amounts of oxygen. An alkaline will accelerate oxidizing bleaches.
Using a small amount of an acid (such as acetic acid) to a reducing agent hastens the reduction reaction. Acids accelerate reducing agents.
One should be aware that natural fibers like wool & cotton are susceptible to damage from chemical reactions. Sodium Percarbonate, often used for its oxidizer properties, is a fairly strong alkaline (sodium Carbonate. Alkalinity on natural fibers tends to degrade them. In these cases, using an oxidizer without a high degree of alkalinity is preferred, such as Hydrogen Peroxide. The peroxide can be accelerated with either heat or UV. U.V. is by all means to the preferred method IF the stain material is unknown.

Acceleration of bleaching action

Oxidizers:
Heat
Alkaline
Ultraviolet Light


Reducers:
Heat
Acid


Basic chart of known stains and first choice to remove

Reducers

Betadine/Iodine (Oxidizers will often work also)
Candy (Red Food dye) **
Kool Aid (red)
Cough Syrup – red
Hair Dye
Hi-lighter –Yellow or Green

Oxidizers

Wine
Blood
Coffee**
Tea**
Cough Syrup-Yellow
Curry (needs accelerant)
Feces**
Highlighter red or blue
Ink**
Mold & Mildew stains
Dispersed Dyes (Mustard, Curry, Turmeric)
Real Fruit Juice
Permanent Marker**
Plant Stains**
Toilet Bowl blue
Urine
Vomit**

** Require supplemental action in addition to oxidation/reduction decoloring(i.e. emulsisification and/or solvent removal).

Most any staining element requires preconditioning and extraction using water as a rinse agent.

Reducing agents are vastly improved with heat. Therefore, use of a steam iron, or a steamer is often indicated.

Unknown Stains and order of trial

Because heat and acidity are both part and parcel to reducing procedures, they are used LAST in any situation where you may choose to use one or both methods of bleaching. Therefore, always use the oxidizer first, and then gauge the reaction. Extract, and then use the reducing agent. OXIDIZER FIRST, THEN REDUCER

There are exceptions to this rule. Consult stain guides for individual product lines.


Additional notes:

Oxygen bleaches often work by liberating oxygen in a manner by which an effervescing does occur. effervescing is the emission of small bubbles. The physical manifestation and collapse of these bubbles create a monumental physical action at a very microscopic level. This physical action creates a great deal of movement, or agitation to soils of the 1-4 micron range. This aids greatly in removal, and is the basis for soil removal of popular processes, such as CD. This same action can be of help, in addition to oxidation, for removal of soiling such as filtration.

As discussed, alkali accelerates hydrogen peroxide’s liberation of oxygen. But almost any contaminant will cause a reaction, and not always a good one. Certain acids can have some unpredictable results if combined with hydrogen peroxide. So it is best not to experiment with any acids “on hand” in any manner, to achieve a desired effect. For example, if one uses acetic acid in an effort to accelerate hydrogen peroxide, some of the reaction will create another compound called peroxyacetic acid. Peracetic (peroxyacetic) acid is a highly corrosive organic peroxide that will bleach out most any dye, and degrade natural fibers. Many people who have used this combination literally bleach out all color.

Hydrogen peroxide and ammonium hydroxide. Ammonium hydroxide is amongst the fastest & controlled means to liberate the oxygen from H2O2.



The preceding document has been refined from the handout at Mikefest. In fact, there were typographical errors that were changed for accuracy. Thanks to those at Mikefest who caught the errors.
 

cleann4kids

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Ok heres what I dont understand,

I went to class and they say to take out the oxgen for the stain to release
but the O2 systems claims to clean with oxgen?

Whats the difference?
 

sweendogg

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Oxidizers add oxygen and work to release certain organic stains and soiling. We boost an oxidizer and use it for organic stains, but we can also use oxidizers to boost our regular cleaning chemistry as they help brighten and aid in the soil suspension step. That is the premise of the O2 system. You have good solvency with the Dlimolene (citrus sovlents) a good surfactant and sodium borate which is a pretty stable oxidizer.
 

MicahR

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Micah Richardson
Thanks Steven.....that's the one I was looking for.

I'm actually using it as a handout to new cleaners that have questions.

Very good article.


Larry: Thanks for that link...I had completely forgotten about that.
 

TimP

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May 19, 2007
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cleann4kids said:
Ok heres what I dont understand,

I went to class and they say to take out the oxgen for the stain to release
but the O2 systems claims to clean with oxgen?

Whats the difference?


When you oxidize something you lose electrons. The o2 has a reaction with the stain to change the chemical make up. It basically rusts the stain away. Think of it like copper turning green, or steel turning redish. Keep in mind when in cleaning oxygen is refered to making H2O

The O2 system judson uses does this, however it's not in huge quantities like a 30/40 vol H20. The way I understand it there is sodium borate in judson O2 that creates H20. If you are using something in the same strength as a 30-40 volume you aren't gonna mix it in a prespray for sure. The expansion from the oxygen can cause some problems with expansion etc.

Anyways the low levels of O2 in the prespray conditioners is low enough to oxidize light stains, and it does really help. Once you get used to a TlC'er that has some O2 producing chemistry it's hard to use anything else.
 

leesenter

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Oct 7, 2006
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The one thing I haven't read on here is DO NOT USE OXIDIZERS ON NATURAL FIBERS. That is of course the piece you are cleaning will look good in your own basement with a hole in it.
 

TimP

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leesenter said:
The one thing I haven't read on here is DO NOT USE OXIDIZERS ON NATURAL FIBERS. That is of course the piece you are cleaning will look good in your own basement with a hole in it.


Judson o2 is fine on wool.

But I wouldn't add percarbonate or 30/40 vol to any prespray when cleaning wool.
 

sweendogg

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shhhh Lee, You have to leave some room of error so we can drive the weak and lazy from the flock! :twisted:

No.. GOOD POINT! Only use an oxidizer as an absolute last resort. Not so much from the hole in the fabric.. though I'm sure rayon, and silk would... but you'll bleach out most natural fibers long before you can move the color of a synthetic fiber.
 

J Scott W

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Jeffrey Scott Warrington
Here is an article I wrote for Cleanfax a few years back. It is also posted on my new website www.CleanWiki.com along with several hundred other technical topics.

Oxidizers and Reducers

Bleaches fall into two categories –oxidizers and reducers. These can be useful in removing a wide variety of stains. To use them effectively, it helps to understand how they work. The typical carpet cleaner thinks of oxidation and reduction differently from the chemist. This article will try to narrow that gap without rising to the complexity of a college chemistry course.

Why Is the Sky Blue?
Answering this question illustrates why oxidizers and reducers may render a stain colorless.
A clear daytime sky is blue because molecules in the air scatter blue light more than other colors. At sunset, we may look toward the sun and see the reds and orange colors that have not been scattered but travels to our eyes in a straight line. Blues and other colors have been scattered. Those scattered blue rays are what reach our eyes when we are not looking directly toward the sun.

You can demonstrate as John Tyndall did this in 1859 by shining a light through a clear liquid in which small particles were held in suspension. A little milk or soap in the water provides the small particles. Viewed from the side the light appeared blue. Viewed from the end, the light looked red.

Tyndall and others thought the light was being scattered by dust particles or water vapor. Later it was shown that it was actually molecules of oxygen and nitrogen, the most common elements in our atmosphere, were doing the scattering.

We see things as different colors because the structure of the molecules effects what light is absorbed, reflect, scattered or passes through. The portion of the molecule that determines the color is called a chromophore. If we alter the chromophore we change the color. So when oxidizers and reducers react with a molecule it can be changed to something that allows light to pass through unaltered. The stain has become colorless!

In simple terms, reducers remove oxygen from a molecule while oxidizers add oxygen. This change makes the stain colorless. Some stains that appear to have been removed, when viewed under normal lighting, may be visible when viewed under UV light. Sometimes this chemical action can be reversed. Staining material that was reduced may recombine with oxygen and the stain reappears.

How Does A chemist Understand Oxidation and Reduction?
To the chemist these are not two separate reactions but two viewpoints of the same reaction. Often the reaction is shortened to redox. Conservation of matter tells us that if one molecule gains oxygen then another molecule must have lost that oxygen.

It is not always oxygen that is being gained or lost in these reactions. An atom of oxygen wants to gain two electrons from anything that will react with it. The oxygen may form a bond with the staining material and share two of its electrons. Iron combining with oxygen to form ferrous oxide (rust) is an example. Oxygen may simply pull two electrons away. A chemist may think of oxidation as the loss of electrons and reduction as a chemical change where electrons are gained.

When a substance is oxidized, what is the other half of the reaction? The oxygen that has gained the two electrons is reduced.

Oxidizing agents and reducers can lose potency by reacting with the atmosphere. Heat will accelerate this loss of potency. It is important to keep these products sealed and away from heat to the extent practical. Manufacturers of stain removal products that contain bleaches may package them in powder form to help slow down the deterioration.

For liquids reducers and oxidizers, it is helpful to store them in an insulated spotting kit and carry no more than you need for each days use in your van. Additional supplies can be kept back in your shop or garage at more moderate temperatures. Placing a reusable block of “blue ice” in the spotting kit each day is a great way to extend the shelf life of your products.

When to Use Bleaches
These are potent chemicals. When improperly used, bleaches may corrode metal; remove colors that you did not want to remove or degrade natural fibers such as wool, cotton and silk. They should be used after you have removed as much of the staining material as possible by other means. Other safer means to remove the color should be tried first. Older stains that have “set” or had time to bond with the fibers will be more difficult to remove and more likely to require bleach.

When you do apply an oxidizer or reducer, make sure other chemical agents have been flushed from the fiber. The presence of other chemicals may unexpectedly inhibit or accelerate the action of your spotter.

Get the carpet as dry as you can before applying the oxidizer or reducer. A fiber that is full of moisture will not readily absorb your spotting agent.

USe any bleach with great caution on natural fibers. Oxidizers especially have the potential to damage wool. Chlorine bleach can disolve wool. Milder oxidizers can yellow wool and weaken cotton fibers.

Oxidizers
Chlorine bleach (laundry bleach) chemically known as sodium hypochlorite works very quickly and can result in unintended color loss, dissolving wool fibers or corroding metal. Be very careful if you chose to use this product.

Hydrogen peroxide is a much safer, clear, self-neutralizing oxidizer that should be kept stored in tightly capped, dark bottles away from heat. Concentrated solutions can damage cotton and other natural fibers.

Sodium percarbonate is a powder that release oxygen when dissolved in water. It is most effective in very hot water.

Sodium perborate is an oxidizer in powder form that converts to hydrogen peroxide when mixed with water. Sodium perborate is more stable in heat than other oxidizers, however it must be kept dry until ready for use.

Some products containing sodium percarbonate and/or sodium perborate may also contain fillers that can leave a white powdery residue after use.

Oxidizers can be accelerated by heat, by alkalinity or by ultraviolet light. UV light (especially wave lengths near 345 nanometers) is very effective as an accelerator when removing mustard.

Some liquid oxidizers are volatile, meaning they will completely evaporate. So there is no need to rush them. If they don’t work in a few minutes, you can reapply a heavy dose and simply leave them to continue working until they evaporate. This technique will slowly remove many stains even over several hours.

Reducers
Reducers used in our industry include Sodium bisulfite (AKA sodium metabisulfite) and sodium hydrosulfite. Sodium bisulfite is frequently used as a preservative for food to keep vegetables on salad bars looking fresh and to prevent the oxidation of wine.

At one time cleaning techs referred to reducers as strippers –because they stripped away oxygen from a satin. That term proved to cause confusion when listeners were uncertain of the context.

The addition of heat or acid accelerates most reducers. During stain removal, heat is often applied by means of a steam iron and a damp cotton towel or by a steamer such as is used to remove wallpaper.

Which Should I Use?
One rule of thumb is to use reducers on any colored stain caused by something you would eat or drink except mustard. Use oxidizers on other colored stains.

Other cleaners follow this rule – Use reducers on anything that contains artificial food coloring. Use oxidizers on stains from organic or natural sources.

Many stains can be removed by either an oxidizer or a reducer.

The manufacturers of formulated oxidizers and reducers know best what their products work on and how best to use them effectively and safely. Check with the manufacturer’s website or stain guide for specific suggestions.

If you are not sure which type of chemistry to use, which should you try first? Experts don’t completely agree on this. If you use an oxidizer first and find it doesn’t complete the job, you can rinse it out and then apply a reducer. If you reverse the order, the oxidizer may not work as well. However, because oxidizers can take a long time to completely remove a stain, some prefer to try the reducer first rather than waiting to see what results an oxidizer will yield.

Which Chemistry to Try First?
Reducers are likely to work best on these stains
Betadine / Iodine
Candy
Kool Aid and similar color beverages
Cough syrup (red colors)
Hair dye
Yellow and green Highlighters
Other food coloring stains

Oxidizers are likely to work best on these stains
Berries and fruit
Blood
Coffee (Note some coffee, especially decaffeinated, contains food dye which is best removed with a reducer.)
Cough syrup (yellow colors)
Curry
Feces
Fruit juices without artificial coloring
Furniture stains
Ink
Mold
Mustard
Permanent Marker
Plant Stains
Tea
Urine
Vomit

Special thanks to Shawn Forsythe of Central California Cleaning Supply for information in the above chart.

Parting Reminders
Oxidizers and reducers can be great assets in your spot and stain removal kit. They will remove stains that can not be removed by other means. But it is important to exercise patience and caution.

Don’t play at being a chemist. Unexpected reactions involving bleaches can harm you physically. They can also damage carpet, fabrics and other surfaces. Be careful. Test for results first. This can be done by applying your stain remover to jut on tuft until you know what result to expect.
 
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Heathrow

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leesenter said:
The one thing I haven't read on here is DO NOT USE OXIDIZERS ON NATURAL FIBERS. That is of course the piece you are cleaning will look good in your own basement with a hole in it.

Lee I'm sure you're referring to upholstery there? Yes delicate cotton will fall apart before your eyes if you use peroxide on it (try spraying it on a cotton based mattress for an eye opening experience...) - but it's ok to use on wool carpet in my opinion. The only time I've had a treatment go too far on wool was when too much heat was used for too long.
 
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