Paid it off last month, this month a crack in the engine... Uggggggg.

[jcooper]

Yep, literally paid it off last month.

Other day I notice my pos Kohler is leaking more than normal. Have had the rear gasket repaired twice already over the last 4 years. It's always been a very slow leak. Like a half quart for 6 months.

Go out to take some photos and get some help and notice why... Is this not a crack?!

As you can see the two pieces come together over right on the frame rail. Seems to me this could very easily be cause by the back cover constantly banging the rail, especially on starting???

Maybe when I take it to my local disty(jd) to get flogged I should have them put some wasters or something under there? It's obviously caused by over tightening (them) or banging the rail.

Anyways, any idea what the back part of a 20 hp kohler command pro is called? I've searched(rear engine cover, etc.)the net, not finding any helpful results...

Any possibilities this is something a large disty(jd) would have in stock???



Happy Sunday!

 

[Mikey P]

Can you use ms paint to put an arrow where you think the leak is?

 

[Cleanworks]

Where's Bawb when you need him? You may want to reinstall the engine with shock absorbing rubber washers to dampen the vibration. What unit is that?

 

[FredC]

the back part of a 20 hp kohler command pro is called?!

$360?

https://www.kohler-engine-parts.opeengines.com/parts-lookup#/Kohler_Engine/CH640-3004_BASIC_20.5_HP_(15.3_kW)/Lubrication_Group_3-24-124_CH18-750/14433/CATALOGS|~35158



page L here:
http://www.ereplacementparts.com/kohler-ch640sch6403016-engine-parts-c-106503_108123_113633.html

possibly lower
http://www.jackssmallengines.com/jacks-parts-lookup/part/kohler/24009237s

check model #s of course.......closure plate

 

[FredC]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Kohler-Comm...393512?hash=item4b0429c528:g:5jQAAOSwanRXh8qd

looks like there may be a couple others as well

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fro...=nc&LH_ItemCondition=4&_trksid=p2045573.m1684

 

[jcooper]

Can you use ms paint to put an arrow where you think the leak is?

This is the part I'll need.

$360?
https://www.kohler-engine-parts.ope...Group_3-24-124_CH18-750/14433/CATALOGS|~35158

Thank you, Fred! Looks like it's either 26 or 126.


Apparently it's called a "CLOSURE PLATE ASSEMBLY (SERVICE) $402.25"..... Wow, four hundred bucks before the disty. Plus, new belts, engine removal, shop charges(lol), etc... Ouch.

You may want to reinstall the engine with shock absorbing rubber washers to dampen the vibration. What unit is that?

It's an older 370.

 

[Mikey P]

How much for the whole motor?

 

[FredC]

[parsehtml]<iframe style="width:120px;height:240px;" marginwidth="0" marginheight="0" scrolling="no" frameborder="0" src="//ws-na.amazon-adsystem.com/widgets/q?ServiceVersion=20070822&OneJS=1&Operation=GetAdHtml&MarketPlace=US&source=ss&ref=as_ss_li_til&ad_type=product_link&tracking_id=swsfcc-20&marketplace=amazon&region=US&placement=B0006O1ICE&asins=B0006O1ICE&linkId=f01dc798080dcb786b524f62d0f463c2&show_border=true&link_opens_in_new_window=true"></iframe>[/parsehtml]

 

[Cleanworks]

I'm no mechanic but it appears to be cracking at all of the stress points where the bolts go through. It could be the bolts are being over torqued. I would have your dealer look at it first before you do anything. Depending on the hours on it, you may want to just buy a new engine. You want to find out what's causing it before spending that much.

 

[bob vawter]

Where's Bawb when you need him? You may want to reinstall the engine with shock absorbing rubber washers to dampen the vibration. What unit is that?

Although Kohler motors ARE an acceptable motor for certain circumstances. ...lawn mowers and maybe generators....it IS NOT designed for an 8 hour day ..six days a week. ....JUS NOT!!!

If you want to be a professional. ...you have to step up and buy professional equipment made for the job yor doing.
If I were young and starting a bidness. ..I'd buy a Butler

God I can't believe I SED that.....
But I would...

 

[Cleanworks]

So it looks like it never made it back for a warranty repair or they didn't think it was a problem at the time and now it's too late.

 

[FredC]

I don't know what you had done and when but this failure point was obvious back in 2012:

was it under warranty then?
did you put all that nellows there or was that a dealer repair?

 

[Cleanworks]

You must have a photographic memory Fred.

 

[dgardner]

Jerry, are you sure oil is leaking from that spot? it looks more like a casting flaw (that doesn't go all the way through) than a crack...

 

[dgardner]

this could very easily be cause by the back cover constantly banging the rail

And help me to understand how it could be banging on the frame rail if the motor is solidly bolted down and can't move.

 

[dgardner]

Cracks almost never go in a straight line, and usually have sharp, crisp edges, like this:

Or this:

 

[FredC]

You must have a photographic memory Fred.

I'm not actually sure its the same spot..........

 

[dgardner]

Now, that's a crack.....

 

[jcooper]

I don't know what you had done and when but this failure point was obvious back in 2012:

was it under warranty then?
did you put all that nellows there or was that a dealer repair?

Yes, it was under warranty then, JD removed the engine and fixed with new gasket, belts, etc.

You must have a photographic memory Fred.

No kidding, it's appreciated! The first time it leaked(12) they tightened it, second time new gasket. I believe...

jcooper said: ↑
this could very easily be cause by the back cover constantly banging the rail
And help me to understand how it could be banging on the frame rail if the motor is solidly bolted down and can't move.

Not sure, Dave. Just seems possible from vibration. The space between the rail and engine cover is nil.

 

[FredC]

but it didn't need a new gasket......it needed a closure plate

Is that the same spot? It looks like it continued to "open"

 

[dgardner]

It looks like the original leak continues to do so - notice the oil wetness radiating from the old crack/leak and nothing from the new "leak":

 

[dgardner]

Still need to replace the same part so doesn't really matter....

 

[FredC]

I don't know hard to see on my phone...............


but I would think it more likely to be leaking at the gasket interface between the two bolts which may have more clearance now that the "new leak" has opened up more

 

[jcooper]

but it didn't need a new gasket......it needed a closure plate
Is that the same spot? It looks like it continued to "open"

Yea, appears to be same spot.

At least this week is slow, as long as I can get through 3 jobs tomorrow. Should be able to get it in Tuesday. Should I run out and get some jb weld?

 

[jcooper]

Thanks fellas.

2400 hours.

 

[SamIam]

The equivalent of 2-4 payments and your rolling another 3-4 years??

Get it fixed, good luck.

Hopefully you have a back up

Hopefully you can get it done fast.

 

[dealtimeman]

I would not repair if motor has over 1500 hours, I would replace the engine which will take less than 3-4 hours to do.

While motor is out replace all high pressure hoses( very easy while motor is out), rebuild/replace regulator and clean up the frame in all places not normally accessible but accessible now that motor is out.

Motor should be no more than 1450 belts another 40 hoses 160 for the main hoses in stainless covered Teflon with jic fittings.

1650 if you do it, or 1650 plus labor to have it done is still not bad and then the engine won't start nickel and dimming you like coils, stator,head gaskets, cover gaskets cam stripping out, starter, inverter any of the bearings, valves or completely crack the block.

 

[Lee Stockwell]

Then jb weld the old motor for an emergency spare.

 

[jcooper]

1650 if you do it, or 1650 plus labor to have it done is still not bad and then the engine won't start nickel and dimming you like coils, stator,head gaskets, cover gaskets cam stripping out, starter, inverter any of the bearings, valves or completely crack the block.

By the time the disty is done with me, I'm sure a new motor is going to be like 2-2500$ installed, at least...

It's been "nickel and dimming" sense the day I got it!

 

[jcooper]

New engine at JD, is 2250! Ohh shat.

http://www.jondon.com/ea-kohler-engine-20hp-model-ch640-3058.html


I'd rather drive this thing off a cliff and start over.