Pet Odor

ACE

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I just took the IICRC odor class to complete my Master textile cleaner certification. I was hoping to gleam some knowledge that would allow me to deal with pet odor more efficiently, no such luck. I walked away from the class even less excited about pet odor work than when I started. The class made it clear to me that my customers where totally disconnected from reality of the cost and labor involved in really eliminated urine odor. It’s also becoming clear that the old boys running the IICRC are disconnected from the realities of the industry. So, screw it from now on when a customer calls and tells me their little ankle bitter has been having a few accidents. I’ll tell them hey; sure we got a pill for that. Show up do what I can in a reasonable amount of time extract and collect check.
 

Mikey P

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KISS.


9 times out of ten if you have to lift the carpet to deal with the pad the home owner would be better of getting rid of the offending pet/waiting for it to die and replacing the effected area.
Once urine has soaked the backing, pad and subfloor all the enzymes and quats you can dump on it will not fix it 100%, not even close.


All that crap they taught you in class is just a way to sell you over priced chemicals.


One isolated are can be Water-clawed with a peroxide product with good success but how often do you find one isolated urine spot?


If the pet is staying then just load up your pre spray with 40 volume or powered Peroxide and a deodorizer like Judon's Quat a Lot and call it a day.








who the hell wants to be known ass a Urine Specialist anyway?




just my opinion anyways. take it for what its worth.
 

Jim Pemberton

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40 years of carpet cleaning and too many years as a landlord, as well as my time as a trainer/supplier have taught me a few things about animal odor:

1. The pet owner has unrealistic expectations. Nothing can be done as long as the "polluter" still remains. Working that issue through with a pet owner takes a unique level of tact and diplomacy. All you need to do is see how many of us regular posters love our own pets to understand this difficult issue with our customers feelings. The easiest odor jobs (from a human relationship point of view) are those where you are hired/referred by landlords, realtors, and banks.

2. Cleaner unrealistic expectations. Most people want a "super product" that can be sprayed from the surface or added to the cleaner. If you aren't willing and able to remove carpet and cushion, don't call yourself a pet odor specialist.

Regarding Mike's comment about overpriced products: I'd rather see a "cheap" or not the most "high tech" product used where it can contact the source of the odor than the most expensive product spritzed on the surface of the carpet.

3. Some carpet's are "terminal patients". If more than 20% of the carpet is contaminated (and I think even 20% may be too high), its rarely economical to attempt to save the carpet. The cost of material and labor is such at times like this that sealing the floor and replacing carpet, cushion and tackstrip is a more sensible idea.

All that crap they taught you in class is just a way to sell you over priced chemicals.
I guess somewhere in there you can point at some suppliers and trainers who sell products and create unrealistic expectations. But it wasn't my 40 years of experience that got my property rentable after abuse from pets and incontient people. Nor did that experience get me through all of our cleaning company odor problems.

Most of it came from going to a class and using some expensive products the right way.
 

Bjorn

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the problem is

most carpet cleaners have never learned the art of under promise and over deliver

you cant go wrong even if it goes wrong
 
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Odin said:
the problem is

most carpet cleaners have never learned the art of under promise and over deliver

you cant go wrong even if it goes wrong


That is very true, I lower their expectations and then exceed them.
 

sweendogg

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brent said:
Odin said:
the problem is

most carpet cleaners have never learned the art of under promise and over deliver

you cant go wrong even if it goes wrong


That is very true, I lower their expectations and then exceed them.

Exactly! And like Jim said, with tact you can help your customer understand that the problem reoccur again until the source is gone. Most pet owners who love their pets will pay for an odor reduction service to keep the problem at bay until it can be fixed or until their pet passes on and from that stand point you have a usually very loyal client who won't haggle too much on price.
 

rhino1

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Mountain View Carpet Care said:
rhino1 said:
I just fog the worst places with Ozone and call it a day. It has yet to fail.


How do that work when the stinch is in the pad?


I don't know the science behind it, I just know it works. Run the machine in a bad house for 2 hours and it gets rid of the smell. No chems, no pulling pad, just plug it in and leave.
 
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rhino1 said:
Mountain View Carpet Care said:
rhino1 said:
I just fog the worst places with Ozone and call it a day. It has yet to fail.


How do that work when the stinch is in the pad?


I don't know the science behind it, I just know it works. Run the machine in a bad house for 2 hours and it gets rid of the smell. No chems, no pulling pad, just plug it in and leave.


Just when I was going to sell my ozone generator. :)
 

KevinL

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That's bull. I have a friend that makes his living by solving carpet problems. From stain removal to patches to restretches to odor removal. He doesn't have much luck using ozone for urine.
 
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KevinL said:
That's bull. I have a friend that makes his living by solving carpet problems. From stain removal to patches to restretches to odor removal. He doesn't have much luck using ozone for urine.


I know that. :)
 

rhino1

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Mountain View Carpet Care said:
KevinL said:
That's bull. I have a friend that makes his living by solving carpet problems. From stain removal to patches to restretches to odor removal. He doesn't have much luck using ozone for urine.


I know that. :)

There is a BIG difference in machines, if you have a low output machine you won't have much luck. I know what works for me and as I have said it works everytime I have tried it. But the machines I use are very high output and produce a visible fog when they are running, I have used smaller output machines that didn't do so well, so I understand your position.

If you don't believe it, don't use one. I don't really care. I just know that I don't have to buy a bunch of chems that don't work half the time and go thru alot of BS to solve odor problems.

I saw a POS Powerflite generator for sale here, and I don't wonder Ozone doesn't work for everyone, MG/hr way too low to be effective. Too bad whoever is selling that would try to pawn it off on someone else, especially if they felt it didn't work.
 

steve frasier

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I got tired of the OSR, Pet zone products not working of taking forever for them to work

lately I have been spraying them with a 1 to 4 ratio of matrix acid rinse(like the smell) and spraying the spots heavy, alot of the time it will remove the yellow, then treating the rest of carpet as normal

flush/rinse spots well and plenty of dry strokes, if there is still a problem after drying the spot with an airpath then I will either spray it with peroxide if it is still yellow or put a little odorcide on it if it still smells
 

sweendogg

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Lets look at this from a practical point of view. Ozone is an oxidizer so it would make sense that it would eliminate the odor causing bacteria. And for a while it would remove the smell. However the alkaline salt residue from the urine would remain. The bacteria would eventually return as the alkaline salts absorbed the humidity from the air or other moisture sources and the odor would return.

So while you are removing the odor long enough to get paid for the service.. (which is the point if it works for you) the odor would return unless you removed the source completely. Now water clawing the source.. (if you can find it) and then ozoning would be very effective. or remvoing the carpet pad and ozoning.
 

ACE

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I did a urine job yesterday that turned out pretty well. Allot of small bright yellow spots. I used about a quart of 30 Vol. with a trigger sprayer. Stains and odor where gone. I think Mikey is right, hit it with an oxidizer. I had been using OSR but it’s not really practical in most situations.

Mikey, how much 40 Vol. would you add to hydro force at 1:8 dilution?
 

rhino1

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sweendogg said:
Lets look at this from a practical point of view. Ozone is an oxidizer so it would make sense that it would eliminate the odor causing bacteria. And for a while it would remove the smell. However the alkaline salt residue from the urine would remain. The bacteria would eventually return as the alkaline salts absorbed the humidity from the air or other moisture sources and the odor would return.

So while you are removing the odor long enough to get paid for the service.. (which is the point if it works for you) the odor would return unless you removed the source completely. Now water clawing the source.. (if you can find it) and then ozoning would be very effective. or remvoing the carpet pad and ozoning.


That would seem to make sense, but I know for a fact that a home I did 6-7 months ago that I recommended replacement for still hasn't had the odor return. I Ozoned it on a lark, and the odor is still gone. I think 6 or 7 months in a sewer like that could be called good.

Like I said, I don't know why it works so well, but it does. It goes without saying that the carpets were cleaned with an oxidizer/acid rinse first, then Ozoned for a couple of hours.

One interesting note: a small closet that had been cleaned but was left shut during the ozone process still has a bit of odor.
 

sweendogg

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And that would make sence. the door acted an air barrier keeping the ozone from reaching the materials in the closet. Ozone is very effective, just have to be careful with it and certain fabrics which can rapidly breakdown when exposed to the stuff. Ozone basically creates an O3 molecule. In other words it bonds 3 oxygen molecules together and releases it. Oxygen in this configuration is very unstable and wants to kick off that 3rd molecule as soon as it can so it can break down to the stable form 02. So when the 03 gas interacts with the organic odor causing substances the gas releases its third oxygen molecule which bonds with the stinky materials and neutralizes the odor. Basically Ozone is a gaseous oxidizer.

Here is a link that gets more into the meat and potato's explanation.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ozone

One Warning though, I do hope you are clearing the house during your ozoning, wearing appropriate PPE and clearning all the residual gas out of a house before occupants allowed to re-enter. this can be some very dangerous stuff.
 

rhino1

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Yes, I certainly do tell them to get out cats, dogs, pets, and plants before the treatment. I come back and air out the home when I pick up the machines. I don't typically stay in the house for long after I get them running, but I have had a headache or two from staying too long.

I think there might be a need to turn off furnaces/water heaters during the heating season if they are gas in the case of oxygen depletion causing pilot lights to go out.
 

Greg Cole

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A very Long time ago I had a customer tell me she would get the $1200 guaranteed pet odor removal if I would find a good home for her male cat that was pissing everywhere. True to my word, my sister got a cat on her doorstep the very next day. Served her right for picking on me as a kid! lol
 

Mikey P

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ACE said:
Mikey, how much 40 Vol. would you add to hydro force at 1:8 dilution?



I'm a glugologist, so I'd have to say about "that" much"




What the heck are you doing with the 8to1 meter in anyways !dork!


Run your HF with no meter and you'll get better draw and always have fresh chems AND PEROXIDE coming out of it.
 

ACE

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Their are several types of inline sprayers. the defalt (no metering tips) for most models is 1 to 8 some are 1 to 9.

So how many Glugs? About a cup worth a pint or what?
 

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