Planter caused mold on rug

ruff

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If a rug has planter caused mold/mildew on it. Not rotting but definitely some damage. Planter removed and will not be there again.

Is there an advantage in cleaning (as it may reveal more of the damage and fiber loss.) and also is it really necessary to remove it. Or is it better to spray with a products that stops the mold (which will it be in CA?) and just let it be?
 

Desk Jockey

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Cut it out if there is donor piece. A remnant, closet?

Do you have to? It just depends on the client. If they are sensitive to molds or allergens, you should. You might as well remove the pad too.

If not any periods of high humidity and you can expect some odors off gassing.
 
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Desk Jockey

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Phone or desktop?
Android phone put you finger on the image and hold it. Then save to gallery.

At the bottom of the MB message box it says "Upload Photo". Click it and look for it in your gallery. It will upload from there when you click on it.
 
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ruff

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Mld 1.jpg
Mld2.jpg
 

Desk Jockey

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How stable is it still? It looks pretty good from the picture.

If it would hold for a cleaning I'd clean both sides. You can always use the Sapphire tool and break the vacuum some. Spray with whatever disinfectants Cali allows.

If its not stable the you don't have much choice but to spray and run.
 
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ruff

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  1. Since structural damage is done, what will a flush accomplish?
  2. Would you spray a mildewcide and then flush?
  3. Does it need to be flushed?
  4. Wouldn't a flush increase buckling (warping)? Not that it's not already there.

We can use Benefect and Microban QGC , in CA, Will these do?
Benefect smell takes forever to go away and I never used QGC, it is lemon scented (I don't know how strong.)

I haven't seen the rug in person.

I like that tool Tom, could you send me a link to the thread in which it shows. I know there's a similar tool by PMF I wonder what are the dimensions and will yours work well for upholstery cleaning situation where the handle needs to be fairly short?
 
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Desk Jockey

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Flush will remove any loose contaminants (digested remains). Milgo might make it a little foamy but yes I'd give it a light spray before and after. Vacuum after you spray, force dry.

You can always use a fiberglass screen until you get Tom's tool.
 
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Desk Jockey

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Yes either. Benefect is RTU. QGC dilutes.

If chemophobes Benefect is a plant derivative. We use QGC regularly, its a good product but does have a mild fragrance.
 
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ruff

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You the man pilgrim.
Did I ever apologize for calling you Grasshopper, Grasshopper?

Does GGC need to be rinsed out?

P.S. I can also improvise with using the water claw, upside down.
 
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Cleanworks

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for the staining, try a little hydrogen peroxide. Small area at a time, let dwell, then rinse. Last step, try an properly prespared peroxide/ammonia mix such Esteam Eliminate or Vanish or whatever 2 part system you have down there. Spray lightly and walk away, then maybe repeat. Not really recommended for wool but as a last resort, I have had some success with that.
 

ruff

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I would not try that on an already compromised wool. I've seen wool turn brown/black from Amonia.
And the Amonia will boost the peroxide even more.

IMHO the condition does not justify the risk.
 

Cleanworks

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It's a risk, that's why I say treat a small area first. If you haven't worked with this product before, then don't. Try some on something not so expensive.
 

cleanking

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I'd recommend flushing/washing it thoroughly. Sometimes a light pressure washing can blast off the discoloration. Post wash I would treat with some anti microbial. Rapid dry. If the stain remains I'd explain how mold and mildew can create permanent stains on fabrics.
 
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Papa John

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1st warn the customer that the mold may have digested some of the fibers and might not be able to be fixed with cleaning. test colorfastness of black dye; if needs to be set use CTI Last Step to set the dyes, CTI also has CCS to accomplish this but I prefer Last Step because it also has Isopropyl alcohol. let dwell 5- 10 minutes, rinse if used. Go to a beauty supply store and get 30 or 40 vol Hydrogen peroxide and spray on carpet. it will foam up which means it is working. Then rinse out with water claw.
 

cleanking

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I would absolutely not recommend putting 30 or 40 volume on this rug.

If you need to use any, start at 3%

This looks like an overdyed type rug and could easily be bleached out with peroxide too strong.
 
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T Monahan

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  1. Since structural damage is done, what will a flush accomplish?
  2. Would you spray a mildewcide and then flush?
  3. Does it need to be flushed?
  4. Wouldn't a flush increase buckling (warping)? Not that it's not already there.
We can use Benefect and Microban QGC , in CA, Will these do?
Benefect smell takes forever to go away and I never used QGC, it is lemon scented (I don't know how strong.)

I haven't seen the rug in person.

I like that tool Tom, could you send me a link to the thread in which it shows. I know there's a similar tool by PMF I wonder what are the dimensions and will yours work well for upholstery cleaning situation where the handle needs to be fairly short?
https://www.centrumforce.com/products/stainless-steel-rug-spotting-extraction-tool

front-view_grande.jpg


Paddle is 6" X 9" and designed for rugs in mind as well as for upholstery: cushions and arm covers.
 
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