RED CANDLE WAX REMOVAL

theden

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Over the years we have tried different methods of removing candle wax with different results. We have tried freezing, a warm iron and kraft paper and different solvents. Does anyone have a safe, easy, fast way for candle wax removal?
 

Dolly Llama

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hot water

if your TM doesn't make enough heat to use the wand to melt it out, use a hand tool.
Generally it will concentrate enough hot water to flush/rinse melt it out, even with less than stellar heat.
if you can get 170-180 temps ATM, that will be enough to melt/flush it out w/hand tool
4" enclosed jet PMF tool is what we used before I had a TM that made biggie heat.

if color stain remains after the wax is gone, use one of the popular red stain removers.
They all work pretty well from my experience as long as they're fresh and haven't been in a hot TMed van for months and months


..L.T.A.
 

Rex Tyus

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Ditto Meat (as usual). When I used my Bane, it was all about scrape the excess and KRAFT paper and an iron. Never had much luck with the towel. Now I just crank the heat, slide on the slot (works better for wax removal than holes or hybrids) and ZING wax b gone. :mrgreen:
 

Ron Werner

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I agree the red is the unknown. A lot of times the red will dye the carpet.

As for the wax, Orangel from Zep dissolves it. Just scrape it, put some OG on it, work it in and its gone! Flush it away.
 

Dolly Llama

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I'm curious..why use chems if you don't have too?

I saw a couple replies on Dennis's thread over at ICS.
Ron's mention of D'limonene made me think if it.

the one fellow uses several steps
VDS spotter, agitate, alkaline rinse, more VDS spotter, acid wash, then red stain remover for any color staining

why all the juice when plain ole hot water will melt/flush it out?

If you're on your hands and knees already with spotters and scrapers, why not dispense with all the solvents and just hook up the hand tool and flush it out?
nearly all TMs make enough heat to melt/rinse wax with a hand tool

am I missing something??
I'm never too old learn...so is there any benefit to dumping solvents on it??


..L.T.A.
 

Willy P

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WHY DO YOU WORK SO HARD????

GEEEZ- Boil a friggin' kettle, pour on and vac away with an open cuff. It's not hard. I think some of you guys make 52 trips to get a deck of cards. (54 if you need the jokers) :roll:
 

Jim Pemberton

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I prefer removing wax with heat (iron and paper or fire breathing TM, depending on what is available).

I've had good success with solvents, but not all cleaners are careful with the application process, and I've seen some nasty delamination as a result.
 

-JB-

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Gotta agree w/Willy its not rocket science. Blast it w/a steamer 'n' rinse extract. But the red may still be an issue.
 

steve r

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first stop using terry clothe it doesnt have enough material to absorb the wax. i use a carpet seamer now tired of irons not being hot enough as they get old and a good white towel.
once the towel has wax in a spot it will not absorb anymore so if its a lot you have to use a lot of towel and almost always the color goes with the wax. thats my experience anyway.

also the towel is garbage once it has been used on wax because now its in the towel and i havent been able to get it out. i just pitch the towel or use it for wiping hoses and stuff like that.
 

bob vawter

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steve..are you saying that a piece of kraft brown paper has more absorbency than a terry cloth towel.....?
i didn't think that i had to explain to move to new spots on the towel OR that ya gotta throw it away...affer!
 

TimP

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The biggest problem I've had is the red dye that bonds to the yarn.

How is it removed?
 

B&BGaryC

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Only time I had a problem with the color staying the lady had already tried an iron with..... ----- NEWSPAPER! Melted the Olefin loops flat at the top and I could read last weeks headlines in mirror writing on the floor.

"I'll try to make it better, but I don't think this is coming out ma'am."
 

steve r

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bob vawter said:
steve..are you saying that a piece of kraft brown paper has more absorbency than a terry cloth towel.....?
i didn't think that i had to explain to move to new spots on the towel OR that ya gotta throw it away...affer!


im not sure since i never tried kraft paper.i bought some terri towels once but they were useless. i use banes towels by the way or at wally world they have decent thick low lint towels.
im looking into why they call it kraft paper too. i use to be in the folding carton industry and it seemed all brown paper was called kraft but im not sure why.
 

TimP

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B&BGaryC said:
Only time I had a problem with the color staying the lady had already tried an iron with..... ----- NEWSPAPER! Melted the Olefin loops flat at the top and I could read last weeks headlines in mirror writing on the floor.

"I'll try to make it better, but I don't think this is coming out ma'am."


I had the problems with some olefin too. I don't know if they tried to get it out but the color wouldn't budge. All the wax went away but the color was still there. I wasn't getting paid enough to put too much time into it though I just was wondering if there was a trick to get it out after the wax was up. Like a red remover or a stain magic type thing.


I have noticed getting wax up in other situations/colors with just the wand w/o problems.
 

Dolly Llama

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TimP said:
Like a red remover or a stain magic type thing.

.

yep, that's what you use.
Rather, Red Relief over SM, cause it's a synthetic red die

if I understand right, Stain magic is for natural dies/staining like wine, 100% natural juice, etc
Red Relief is for synthetic die stains

can any chemistry gUroos confirm that??
or clarify?


..L.T.A.
 

Dolly Llama

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TimP said:
I was thinking stain magic too.

I "think", you'd try Red Relief (or other oxidizing red stain remover) first Tim

candle wax is a synthetic die, no??

I've also read from the smart peeps here to use RR (oxidizer) first.
If that doesn't get it, then grab the SM (reducer)
Cause if a an oxidizer doesn't get it, you can try other things.
But if reducer is used and doesn't get it, you're done and made it permanent for good


..L.T.A.
 

B&BGaryC

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Wow, I'm all sorts of confused. I thought Red Relief was a reducer with a catalyst. (sodium metabisulfite maybe?)

And I thought Stain Magic was an oxidizer with a catalyst. (Peroxide I thought)
 

TimP

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The way I understand is Stain Magic & Stainzone/oxidizer is what you try first.


Then a red remover for a food dye stain. Or a reducer type. A reducer will set the stain where the oxidizer wont set a stain....if it don't remove it.


At least that's what I understood.
 

Larry B

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If your wand cant do it


Use a iron and a burlap sack (potato sack) Just dont put the ink side down on the carpet.
 

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