Stripping Vinyl Composition Tile (VCT)
1)Assess areas to be stripped. Designate any blend lines. Protect areas not to be serviced that day.
2) Remove as many obstacles from area as possible and do a detailed job dust mopping. Make certain that there is nothing on the floor or in the area that can be damaged by water. *Remove dust mop from service area.
3)Mask items that may be damaged :Wooden trim, Carpet, finished areas not to be stripped. Place wet floor signs & work in progress signs at entrances to areas to be serviced.
4) Mix stripper as per label – adjust as needed.
5) Apply a very liberal amount of mixed solution to the floor. It is best to make certain that you coat the edges very heavily because chances are the floor was not maintained properly and there is going to be a build up on the edges.
6) Allow stripper to dwell for at least 10 minutes – DO NOT LET STRIPPER DRY TO THE FLOOR. If you should need to add more solution at any time that is fine, often it works just as well if you add clear water..
7) Now that you’ve given it at least 10 minutes dwell time go back and move around the solution that is on the floor with your “Stripper Mop”; again paying extra attention to the edges. By this time your floor should becoming much LESS slippery. If that’s the case than your strip job should go well.
8) At this point in time, if this is not a floor that has been maintained properly, you will probably need to detail your edges. This is done best by using a 48” Unger Scraper and a Doodle-Bug. Do not gouge the tiles. Holding the scrapper just at the right angle makes all the difference in the world. Pay Special attention to uneven areas & “high spots” in the tile.
With your shoulder to the shelf/wall place the scrapper on the floor with the screw heads face down. Now with just enough pressure to slightly bend the handle begin pushing. If you are doing it correctly should be able to make one long continuous pass down the entire edge. Continue to work the area until it is clean. Pay special attention to doorways, door jams and thresholds.
9) Now that you have worked it in, it is time to scrub the floor. Take care not to run over any cords, including the one on your machine. Use your machine and pad of choice but most of the time the more aggressive you can get with either one the better. Slowly, methodically and thoroughly scrub the floor. If you are working along shelves or walls you will find it better, if you are using a swing/slow machine, to work the solution in a counter clockwise direction. By doing that you will be “pulling” the solution away from the shelves/walls and reducing the chances of having to deal with “Runs” later.
10)Now that you think you have scrubbed the floor clean reach down and scratch the floor like you were scratching your back – are there any white boogers under you nails? If there aren’t then the floor is clean and ready to be picked up, if there is then you need to keep working that area.
11) REMEMBER: At no point can your floor dry up, keep it wet at all times
12) Now it is time to pick up your stripper slurry. First run your edges with a handheld squeegee by going down one side and back up the other holding the squeegee at 45 degrees to the shelf/wall. At that point pick up the balance with your wet vac. MAKE SURE nothing is allowed to dry to the floor before you can rinse it (for larger areas, squeegee the slurry to a central location, then retrieve with the wet vac & squeegee). As the slurry is picked up the area will be rescrubbed with clear water & then retrieved in a similar manner.
13) Liberally re-wet the entire floor with clear water. Retrieve the water with the squeegee & wet vac. This should be a fast paced process.
14) Now rinse mop the area. Do this with a damp, blended looped end mop (blue mop head) & acid neutralizer or neutral cleaner as prescribed by the lead tech.. *If acid neutralizer is used, re-mop the floor with neutral cleaner & place fans to aid drying.
When rinsing it is normally best to start on the edges and then do the middle. Make sure that there is NOTHING left on the floor. Any liquid at all on the floor should only be water; the best way to mess up a strip job is to do a poor job rinsing the floor.
15) Allow the floor to dry completely before recoating it. Mask the base boards/cove base with painters tape while waiting for everything to dry.
16) With a rayon finish mop (white & blue mop head) apply your first coat of finish lightly & evenly in a North & South pattern. Take care to not miss spots or leave drip, puddles or mop strings. Work in small areas taking care not to paint yourself into a corner. *If the finish appears milky on the floor it is too heavy. Ring your mop out harder.
17) Once the finish is cured enough to buff (30-45 minutes) buff the floor. Dust mop thoroughly.
18)Repeat step 15 & 16 alternating the direction you lay the finish from North & South to East & West until 4 coats of finish have been applied. Buff the 4th coat twice. Dust mop.
19) Remove all equipment from the facility.
20)Remove all tape & masking. Replace any furniture or other items removed from the area. Do not drag anything across the floor.
21)Consult with customer if present. Address any issues at that time.
22) Close facility in accordance with customer directives.
Packing List:
Dust mop
Buffer
Stripping pads
Wet vacuum with squeegee attatchment
3-4 Mop-buckets and wringers
Mop-handle with mop-head for stripping solution
Mop-handle with rinse mop-head
Mop-handle with finish mop-head
Doodlebug & Pads
Floor stripper
Floor finish
Squeegee
Scraper & Blades
Tape & Drop Cloths
Burnisher
Air Movers/fans
By the way since this is a new install, be sure to razor any adhesive off the face of the tiles & you ccan probably substitute neutral cleaner for stripper & green pads for black pads. Rinse well & you'll be fine.
Spartan I-shine is a good product to use, Betco Hybrid & Betco Best are good as well but they are harder to strip when the time comes... Avoid sealer like the friggen plague for the same reason.
