Discussion in 'Water, Fire, & Smoke Damage' started by Stevie Bs, Jul 22, 2017.
Which equipment do you guys use to dry walls, or, do you use dehus only?
With respect that's like asking how fast can I go in my car. The answer is that depends, and the same answer for wall drying. The type of water (category), amount of water (class), and the construction and materials involved will determine how to dry and what equipment should be used. Injecti-Dry, Dry Force, and Viking are three wall drying systems that can be used depending on the given situation. Frankly it's to broad a question to answer without more specifics. PM me Stevie if you like to talk about this in more depth.
Insulated? Turbo vents are the fastest.
Viking system covers larger areas but lower volume of air delivery. But it does add some resistance heat.
Injectidry with intercepter and Adaptadry with HEPA scrubbers are used in projects where cavities are questionable but removal was not desired.
We also have Ocidry both for an airmover and for an ETES. It covers large areas but holes are bigger.
No doubt Rich has proper training, different drying systems and understands structural drying. Stevie's question suggests he would benefit most from additional education/training, especially when working with a challenging situation as a wet insulated wall. Other considerations such using positive or negative air, and is there a possibility of asbestos or lead present that needs to be accessed. It's understood he's looking for equipment and system options. If someone doesn't thoroughly understand how and when to use each it's not likely they're going to address the loss properly and could potentially get themselves in real trouble.
Most of the time I just open the window and send them a $5,000.00 bill.
IF you can dry them it's "Win, Win" for everyone. Wall is dry in days, home or business owner have the least interruption.
Cut them out? Structure should still get some drying. Drywall still needs to be put back, taped, sanded, painted. Messy and time consuming. Costs generally go up whenever the claim is open.
Completely agree. So often you see jobs where a contractor or "restorer" unnecessarily cut out drywall simply because they lacked the proper training and or didn't have the right equipment.
I have an Injectidry system and a couple of Octidrys. A little cloudy on when to use negative vs positive pressure. Guess I better get the ASD manual out.
This is what happens when 7 months pass from the time you get your certifications and when you actually start the business. I had a couple of real estate deals screw up my timing.
You can do either and sometimes on difficult to dry trapped areas both is your best method.
Negative draw is best whenever their is a possibility of microbial growth. I wouldn't suggest drying moldy walls but there are times they find the damage a day or two later. In those case
Drawing the air is best using the HEPA filter.
If you're just starting out make sure you have the right insurance (contractors pollution liability) coverage, not just general liability. General liability will not cover you if you are sued for improper drying that leads to mold or any other microbial contamination claim. Dave Dybdahl of American Risk Management Resources is an expert in this type of coverage. 608-824-3341
I wish I had a resource like this when I started out. Stevie your best bet is to contact people like Rich or myself when you need some help or feed back on a project. Best of luck.
It's my understanding that Rich is quite the drying nerd!
Jim I was born for it.
Seriously for a small service area, we see our fair share.
I have a CPL policy. Thanks for everything, even the brow beating!
We like all different systems for all the different scenarios we encounter.
We have 7 injectidry units, 3 drieaz interair and several Viking/air mover with hose units(we almost never use the Viking unit)
The guys always grab the drieaz units first as they are so light in comparison to the injectidry but does not compete with the injectidry on the power side.
Which way is more affordable to the customer/insurance company?
Taking a razor blade and cutting 2-4ft off the wall and drying with an air mover, and the cost of hiring a sheetrock installer and repainting? Or the Injectidry setup?
Cutting is almost never cheaper if the right conditions are in play.
You need to add the labor to remove it and dry a day still. Then the mess of sanding and taping. Painting complete walls, wall paper, wainscotting.
Not to mention the protracted time it takes to get it all back together. Working couples must schedule someone off or risk trusting several trades. Drying is the faster better option provided there is no damage to the drywall.