What intervals are you changing your fluids?

BIG WOOD

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I'm every 50-75 hrs with 5w30synthetic on my liquid cooled engine

Blower oil? I forget. Whatever my manual tells me to use

Water pump is 15w40 oil every 500hrs with blower
 
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BIG WOOD

MLPW
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Matt w.
I'm every 50-75 hrs with 5w30synthetic on my liquid cooled engine

Blower oil? I forget. Whatever my manual tells me to use

Water pump is 15w40 oil every 500hrs with blower
There was a friendly debate on Facebook, just recently on the water pump oil. I was arguing with myself on my water pump's oil, because a few other guys said to use 30wND (ISO100) oil in the water pump , yet my manual says to use 15w40. I looked it up in General Pump's manual and it says that 15w40 is compatible with ISO100. How can that be? Is 15w40 a non detergent oil??? And isn't detergent bad for our water pumps?
 
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Goomer

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Do you think that's the reason kohler engines start leaking oil so soon?

I can't speak for that, other than that, it's about the Zinc.

Potentially very-high-temp air cooled engines require an oil with anti-wear components that add additional protection at higher temps.

Zinc provides high heat protection that surpasses even the anti-wear properties of the best synthetic base stocks by forming a glass-like film at higher temps.

Without this added layer of protection from Zinc, even full synthetics can burn at higher heats.

How hot does your car/van engine get compared to what your slide-in engine can get?

Years ago, most quality AUTOMOTIVE oils had adequate Zinc levels, so you could get away with using them in hotter air-cooled engines, and is the reason old-timers will state they used XXX brand for years without problems, which was true.

The Gubberment now regulates Zinc content in auto-spec'd oils because it contributes to catalytic converter failure, which the auto industry does not want.

Adequate Zinc levels can now only be found in air-cooled specific oils, like small engine Mfr blends, bike oils, racing oils, and top shelf premiums and such, so it pays to seek them out and pay a little more.

Most any bike shops will stock some of the good sh!t.
 
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Swani
I can't speak for that, other than that, it's about the Zinc.

Potentially very-high-temp air cooled engines require an oil with anti-wear components that add additional protection at higher temps.

Zinc provides high heat protection that surpasses even the anti-wear properties of the best synthetic base stocks by forming a glass-like film at higher temps.

Without this added layer of protection from Zinc, even full synthetics can burn at higher heats.

How hot does your car/van engine get compared to what your slide-in engine can get?

Years ago, most quality AUTOMOTIVE oils had adequate Zinc levels, so you could get away with using them in hotter air-cooled engines, and is the reason old-timers will state they used XXX brand for years without problems, which was true.

The Gubberment now regulates Zinc content in auto-spec'd oils because it contributes to catalytic converter failure, which the auto industry does not want.

Adequate Zinc levels can now only be found in air-cooled specific oils, like small engine Mfr blends, bike oils, racing oils, and top shelf premiums and such, so it pays to seek them out and pay a little more.

Most any bike shops will stock some of the good sh!t.
So what is your go to oil?
 

Nomad74

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Blower and water pump=500 hours, Engine =100 hours. I could probably get away with going much longer on the blower oil, but it's cheap insurance.
 

Total_Rookie

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Every month on the kubota, every 200 on the pump, every 1k on the blower, monthly bimba shaft anti seize, a quick squirt of wd daily.
 
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Goomer

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So what is your go to oil?

I don't really have a brand preference, but my criteria is it being a FULL synthetic specifically spec'd for racing/bike/air-cooled applications that references an additional anti-wear package on the label.

Believe it or not, I think I have something from Valvoline in my pressure washer right now.

Valvoline's premium juices are usually the easiest ones to find at Autobone and P'boys.
 
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Goomer

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He uses a portable... Aside from which outlet to use, I'd take it with a grain of salt....:stir:

Fooker.......

Ok...that was kind of funny.

But seriously, I'm more than just a porty God and I'm more than just a Master Pizzaiolo for almost 20 years.

Despite spending most of my life in NYC, I spent almost five years in Pennsylvania with 15 acres of land to manage, so I know my way around a gas engine.

Restored 4 different year Gravely walk behind front-PTO tractors and attachments, if anyone knows what they are, and a bunch of other machines.

Rednecks sure know their way around small engines.

You can learn a lot from them, and most are more than wiling to help out providing your willing to donate a 12 pack of Yuengling and a fat sack of shwag to the endeavor.

Many-a-long night in the garage.

Self-medication, Classic Rock, grease, oil, gas, power-tools, hand-tools, torches, widgets, dirty fingernails, bloody knuckles.....all till the Sun came up.........

Good fooking times.
 

Larry Cobb

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Goomer is correct. Zinc additives have been reduced in automotive oils.

We use Kohler 20-50W in our engines, and it is a major brand racing oil with full zinc package.

Diesel oils also have the full zinc package.

As any engine accumulates hours, the oil should be a heavier weight.

Blowers should always use full synthetics. Initially this was Aeon "PD" type.

Now, blower manufacturers have changed to the thicker Aeon XD spec.

We buy in bulk & have it at a reasonable cost: $20.99/qt.

We recommend change at 1200 hours.

http://www.cobbcarpet.com/zen/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=68&products_id=5291
 
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