With so many urine products- Which one really works?

Discussion in 'the CleAn Room' started by Ofer Kolton, Aug 1, 2017.

By Ofer Kolton on Aug 1, 2017 at 11:26 AM
  1. Ofer Kolton
    Ofer Kolton

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    Assuming you're not disengaging the carpet, replacing pad, treating carpet from both sides etc. And with so many products out there, which one works the best?
    And have you actually tried the other ones?
    Did you actually come back afterwards to see it's long lasting effect?

    • Does the acid soak flush followed by oxidizer or enzyme?
    • Enzyme alone? (Seem to need a lot more time for soaking than is practical.)
    • The oxidizer soak alone?
    • Uturn?
    • Unduzit? (obnoxious lingering smell!)
    Which method has proven to work best for you and have a lasting effect (assuming the dog/cat/uncle did not go there again?)
    Steve Lawrence and Mikey P like this.

Comments

Discussion in 'the CleAn Room' started by Ofer Kolton, Aug 1, 2017.

    1. Able 1
      Able 1

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      Probably could throw a laxative in there to ensure you will be back in a week..
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    2. Able 1
      Able 1

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      That was sooo wrong, I almost felt like I was selling protector!
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    3. Nate The Great
      Nate The Great

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      The squirts.........:clap:
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    4. Jimmy L
      Jimmy L

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      Those vegan dogs will only eat meat when their master's corpse is lying on the floor.
    5. scottw
      scottw

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      Agree with the concept. But the math is wrong. There are more than 4.33 days in a month. Should be times 30 days or maybe add in a times 7 to go from days to weeks.

      Or simply 9 ounces times 365 days in a year to simplify the formula. 9 x 365 = 3285 ounces / 128 = 25 .66 gallons per year or 77 gallons for 3 years.
    6. scottw
      scottw

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      I think the key is not the specific chemistry, there are good options form several sources, but being sure to flush out the urine. The Water Claw is a great tool. The new Water Claw with the water injection is even better for really flushing out the urine no matter what chemical you applied.
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    7. Ofer Kolton
      Ofer Kolton

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      Since he's an office Jockey, we all assumed he knew his math.
      Turns out we were wrong :winky:

      We are not talking real solution here, we know that if the problem is repetitious, nothing short of replacement of pad etc. will work. And most homeowners will not pay for that, not talking about the fact that if it reaches that level of abuse total replacement is likely to be a better alternative.

      So it is more about what band aid works better and substantially reduces the smell noticeable to the owner.
      Old Coastie likes this.
      Last edited: Aug 2, 2017
    8. Tony Wilson
      Tony Wilson

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      I've had great results with pros choice OSR and my water claw.. For non saturated dribbles I've had great results with bridgepoints USR.
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    9. dekeil
      dekeil

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      I have used a lot of products over the years.

      The one product that works is dymon alive

      Clean as you usual do.
      Than soak area with dymon.
      Than walk away

      Dymon is cheap

      It has done a great job for me
      No call backs
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    10. Ofer Kolton
      Ofer Kolton

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      I was told by Jim, the guy who owns (or used to) Bio-Kleen that the difference between the enzyme style products is:
      1. How many kind of enzymes cultures are used
      2. And enzyme count. (meaning how many per oz or whatever).
      According to him, their live enzyme product (bacout) had more of both. Hard to check and know with certainty, as no manufacturer that I know provides these numbers.

      Maybe one of the reps here can chip in.
    11. scottw
      scottw

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      The kind of enzyme is important. The most common type for urine removal break down protein. So there may not be a lot of differences. Some products have a blend of types.

      Enzyme count is also important. However even more important IMO is enzyme only versus bacteria / enzyme combination. If you have only enzymes, there is whatever amount the manufacturer puts in. If you have living bacteria present, they can be producing enzymes, feeding on the organic material, growing, multiplying, making more enzymes and so forth. Under the best conditions, the bacteria / enzyme count can double every 20 minutes. A regular little enzyme factory going.
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    12. Ofer Kolton
      Ofer Kolton

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      Thanks Scott,
      Also, can you expand on the compatibility of live enzymes (digest protein) and wool (a protein fiber).
      That will be helpful.
      Last edited: Aug 2, 2017
    13. scottw
      scottw

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      Short response. Busy schedule for a few days.

      Enzymes are never live. They are simply chemicals that speed up the breakdown of organic material without being changed themselves. This is similar to a catalyst in a chemical reaction. Because they are not alive. They can't be killed. Some work better in one environment than another. So, the reaction may be faster/ slower if the pH is right or wrong. Usually closer to neutral is better, at least not extremes of pH.

      Enzymes are also allergens for many people. In a liquid, the enzymes don't go anywhere except where you apply them. In a powder, little particles of dust with enzymes can drift in the air. So, enzymes in powdered formulations are usually encapsulated. Like the chocolate in M&M candy, a thin shell around them. It takes some time once this gets in water to dissolve. So, powdered enzymes start slow. They have to get out of the shell first. For many cleaners who don't give their product a lot of dwell time, the enzymes do little or no work. but they still have marketing value.

      Enzymes have a preferred target or material(s) that they interact with. In cleaning products, this is usually proteins. Wool is a protein fiber. Wool is hard to break down and digest. So most enzyme cleaning products will work on some easier to "digest" protein before they start on wool. Courser wool and short fibers of wool will break down a little easier or at least damage would show sooner. So, at least in theory, it is easier for enzymes to damage the poor quality wool.

      In practice, the damage done is rare and slight. One would need to be a real expert with a good magnifying glass to see damage from enzymes when used as they should be. Leave it on a long time and you might get some damage. Do even a little damage to a very valuable wool rug and it can be a major head ache. But for most cleaners, enzymes won't do any noticeable damage to wool. But you may not want to take any chances.
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    14. Jimmy L
      Jimmy L

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      But the real concern is that "RTU" non-existent .....dilution ratio of most if not all of those enzyme deo products.

      $$$$$$$$$$$$
    15. scottw
      scottw

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      Dilute them as much as you wish. They will still work, only slower since the concentration of bacteria and enzymes has been diluted.

      It would be a simple thing to put dilute 1:1 or 1:4 or 1:8 or whatever on the label. It just would not work as well or as quickly. Is the time saved worth the money? If you don't think so, dilute away.
    16. hogjowl
      hogjowl

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      Scott:
      Your having a discussion with ladwig

      Find something to do
    17. Jimmy L
      Jimmy L

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      I made my statement.
    18. KevinD
      KevinD

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      Hope you don't do estimating for your company
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    19. Desk Jockey
      Desk Jockey

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      I don't. I'm a bean counter. :eekk:

      Guess I better brush up on my cifer'n. :redface:
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    20. Rick J
      Rick J

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      these are frequently confused , or used interchangeably, I have found. enzymes vs. live bacteria. Often can not get a straight answer when inquiring about about which is in a certain product.

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