Wood floor cleaning question

spotman123

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Wayne foster
I saw a fellow carpet cleaner using a sx-12 spinner cleaning a wood floor,?. I thought you weren't supposed to use a lot or any water on wood period? Any body do,see or hear of anyone doing this? What kind of psi do you need to spin that sx-12?
 

GCCLee

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That Custom PMF tile wand they just auctioned for 42% off retail.


I think that was the ticket. 50-60psi maybe?

i would like to see the difference it makes myself


Sent from da parking garage of dee detention center
 

J Scott W

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I saw a fellow carpet cleaner using a sx-12 spinner cleaning a wood floor,?. I thought you weren't supposed to use a lot or any water on wood period? Any body do,see or hear of anyone doing this? What kind of psi do you need to spin that sx-12?

The SX-12 requires about 650 PSI to spin freely. When being used on tile, we suggest 800 to 1000 PSI.

There are a few cleaners using SX-12 or other spinner tools on wood. This is not something I recommend because of the possibility of damage to the wood or finish. But it can be done if vacuum / extraction is good. If the water is removed quickly. It does not have time to harm the wood. But not all the water is always extracted. Some water gets between planks and even under planks and is not extracted.
 

GCCLee

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The SX-12 requires about 650 PSI to spin freely. When being used on tile, we suggest 800 to 1000 PSI.

There are a few cleaners using SX-12 or other spinner tools on wood. This is not something I recommend because of the possibility of damage to the wood or finish. But it can be done if vacuum / extraction is good. If the water is removed quickly. It does not have time to harm the wood. But not all the water is always extracted. Some water gets between planks and even under planks and is not extracted.


Thanks Scott : )

Can you offer any information on specific tooling for HWE on wood floors?


Or is this something the industry has yet to accept due to the method madness?
 

spotman123

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The SX-12 requires about 650 PSI to spin freely. When being used on tile, we suggest 800 to 1000 PSI.

There are a few cleaners using SX-12 or other spinner tools on wood. This is not something I recommend because of the possibility of damage to the wood or finish. But it can be done if vacuum / extraction is good. If the water is removed quickly. It does not have time to harm the wood. But not all the water is always extracted. Some water gets between planks and even under planks and is not extracted.
At 650 is excessive IMO. We have to be reminded, we are not cleaning the wood, but cleaning the finish.
 

J Scott W

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Thanks Scott : )

Can you offer any information on specific tooling for HWE on wood floors?

I know of 6 machines for wood floors that use what is essentially an extraction system, but not hot water. The Dirt Dragon form Basic is the nicest looking unit and the most expensive. There are 2 from karcher and 2 from Lindhaus that have different width cleaning paths. The Lindhaus starts at $1695 and I think is the lowest priced unit. Pow'r-Flite also has a low priced unit but I have never used it. The five that I have used all produced very good results. Could not tell one machine from the other by the final results.

I do have some specs comparing the units. The 2 Lindhaus and the 2 Karcher units. Are available from Interlink Supply / Bridgepoint / Hydro-Force distributors. The KArcher units can also do tile & grout , concrete and other hard floors by changing to different brushes. Send me an email if you want the comparison spec sheet. stores.csr@bridgewatercorp.net
 

GCCLee

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Have to check out their heads.

I can turn the TM pressure down an make it spew cold water : )


Sent from da parking garage of dee detention center
 
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When this amateur cups the boards with all that moisture, they are going to need an Air Wolf/Rescue Mat to hope they lay down again! I do screen and recoat with a buffer. Some people always confuse me with a guy using a drum sand, I might just go down that road...
More than once they have hoped that I can take down the board's edges a little. Even with 60 grit screens, which I don't like to use, I might take off 1/16" of wood. My normal rough shape screen is 80 and then 120. My normal screening is with 100 and 150. You definitely take no wood off with 100 or finer. I see water damaged board about once a month and I can't help them. A lot of them are maple strips less than 1/4" thick. Most house built in the north east between 1925 and 1975 have these Vermont maple strips on the floor. The cup easy. They lay back down easy too. The don't mind being buffed, but not so fond of belt sanding. I wouldn't want to wreck them with too much water. I cringe when the people want to clean them with steamers.

If you want to do wood floors the right way, you need this
and this
Cleaning hardwood floors is bull crap scamming. I wouldn't do it, don't want to damage my reputation with something that isn't proper.
 
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Bee Busy

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I don't know anything about wood refinishing and won't cheapen my business entering the trade unless I was fully prepared... unlike the masses that chase the dollar in my area
 
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Ray Burnfield

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You can use red pad on a 175 rpm floor machine or orbital. Lightly mop on cleaning solution, scrub and pick up with wet vacuum. You can use a wand and squeegee tool off of you truck mount instead of the wet vac.
The key is to not over wet the wood floor. Water can seep between the boards and cause damage.
You don't need to invest 3k to find out if you want to work with wood floors.
 
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I don't know anything about wood refinishing and won't cheapen my business entering the trade unless I was fully prepared... unlike the masses that chase the dollar in my area
I think it is very easy. Always is after your 1st time. This AM I sanded a floor that was actually in very good shape. Did the 100 grit, then the 150 grit. Looks like there was no sealer applied and only 1, maybe 2 coats of finish on the floor. So the sanding was a piece of cake. Then I tacked it and put down sealer. Came back 3 hours later, put down the first coat of finish. I want to get this done, I might take my chances with a 2nd coat of finish this tonight. I like to get 2 coats the first day, then 2 coats the 2nd day. The second day you have to go over the floor with a burgundy pad. I have something early tomorrow, then something else in the late afternoon, so I am tempted to rush it a little. The finish went down around 2pm so I think 10 pm might work. At least I will go to look at it. The homeowner is at their mother's home because she went away to Florida this week. They get that it will take 2-3 days before we can move the furniture back to the living room and at least a week for the area rug (which I am cleaning). The biggest problem with refinishing is the customer wants to rush you and this can't be rushed.
 

Bee Busy

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Peter...are there hands on classes you could recommend if any are out there? I get requests for wood cleaning/refinishing at times, but I would want to do it the right way with the right equipment.
 

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