Discussion in 'Rugs and Textiles' started by foosballnerd, Nov 22, 2016.
My three day training session at Miller's had me at Warrington level.
@scottw You gonna take that from him?!?
There are many variations in construction of wool rugs. Type of dyes, foundation yarns, weaving methods and so forth. Many more factors to consider than cleaning an installed carpet.
For best results, I suggest you take it to a rug cleaning expert. They often will give a discounted price to other cleaners.
If you do decide to clean it yourself, email me for my introductory training manual on wool rug cleaning. I will send you a free copy. Actually email me assistant - email@example.com
Key points -
Therei s likely a lot of dry soil in the rug. Shake, beat vibrate, vacuum etc. to remove as much soil in a dry state as possible before adding any moisture.
Use the minimum amount of moisture. Extract as much moisture as possible. Dry quickly with aid of air movement and possibly heat.
Bridgepoint and Masterblend are two manufacturers who have products specifically made for wool rugs. Here is a link to our line-up - https://interlinksupply.com/index.php?search_val=wool
Hi. Did my first carpet yesterday for a buddy. Man was that carpet thrashed. The first thing I did was max out his water heater temp. Had to vacuum for a while, then vac traffic areas again just to be safe. Did the oxy boost with prespray, then scrubbed with my (this kind of embarrassing) carpet rake. Extracted with cleaning solution. I could not believe the result, and neither could my buddy. They looked great. I did the job for nothing, the guy is like a brother to me. He did give me his Kirby G7 that he wasn't interested in, he'd rather use one of them Wally World vacs. I was looking to buy a vac (not anymore, plus the gf told me I wasn't going to take the $212 Royal I bought at the vac dealer up the street out of the house, and to be honest I agree with her, it's mostly plastic) and probably an Oreck Orbitor for agitation. I figure I could use the Kirby with a attachment (rug rejuv brush, or shampoo brush), it would have to work better than the Groom rake. And before I get slammed for being great after 1 job, I use to clean carpets for myself, by my self, for a guy that had over 450 units, over 20 years ago. It was hard work and very low pay, plus you had to show up when they called. I never ever seen results CC like I did yesterday, with me cleaning them. He even left some steel plates for lifting on his carpet that rusted, I told him those probably will not come out, they came out, how? The "CHAT" thing, let the chems do the work, agitate, I'm gonna get a bucket heater (that's embarrassing too)... I would like to thank you guys for sharing your knowledge. Prochem rocks! The wool rug cleaning, I will recommend they call a professional specialized in that. And by the way, I still know I suck at this, but man was I proud yesterday. Oh, I got me a new foosball table yesterday, well, new to me.
You are starting to get it. Keep is simple starting off. Pre vacuuming can be the most important part of the job. Those Oreck Orbitors will work for agitation. You don't want to play with the customers hot water heater. Bucket heater takes a while to heat but helps if you need to refill your machine. I used to fill my machine, then fill a 5 gallon bucket and put a bucket heater in it. When it was time to refill, the water was at least hotter than tap water. You may want to look at an inline heater. I use a EDIC 2000w. inline heater with a 3-4 flow wand and it is an improvement over tap water alone. It will not keep up with a steady flow, so I will start in the middle of a room and clean to the wall, dry stroke back to center, then clean to the other side, dry stroking back to the middle. The heat recovers somewhat when you are dry stroking. Pay attention to the dilution rates on your chems and remember, sometime, less is more. Too much chemical will cause foaming and loss of air flow in your wand and hoses.
I've got a bucket heater I'll sell kinda cheap. $20 plus shipping. It's like new. Used twice.
Yup, you gotta be careful with Wool carpets. I had a lady yesterday that wanted me to clean her wool rug. I normally bring them back to my "shop" and work on them in a controlled environment. She was trying to get me to clean them on the spot, in her house, on her wood floors. She said the last cleaner was able to do it on the spot. I got down on my knees and pointed out to her where the rug had bled. She was shocked and had never noticed the bleed before. I took pictures to cover myself.
You never know, she may have noticed if you had cleaned on site and would have blamed you for that. I now take pictures of any damage on rugs before I clean them.
Oh damn, that is a scary thought!
You could take the rug, correct the bleeding,
and clean the rug with a strong reducing agent (ReduceAll).
A Dye Transfer Inhibitor (ColorSorb) in the wash, would eliminate future bleeding.
http://www.cobbcarpet.com/zen/index..._description=1&keyword=ReduceAll or ColorSorb
Thanks Larry. Those are some great options. I have been waiting for an excuse to use Masterblend Magic powder on a bleeder.