Burnt Connectors 12V

[Mike J]

My water transfer pump from pond to waterbox on my rigs, get this way after a while. I notice the switch is getting a little crusty too. The transfer pump is constantly running and bypassing when not being demanded.
Is this common?


The wires look a little frayed because it broke when I took the pic so I just have them shoved in there sloppy. It had a clean connection just burnt and the plastic brittle and broken off on connectors.

 

[KevinD]

I would up size the wire, connectors and switch.
Too light of a circuit for the draw.

 

[Dwain Ray]

If possible, go to delphi weather pack connector, you'll either have to buy the tool to properly install um or your local dealer should be able to do it or you could use a butt splice and solder, then double srink wrap. Personally I like the delphi connector better but i have the tool. Also if you have a multimeter that reads amps i would check the load first and make sure the circuit isn't overloaded or shorted somewhere

 

[Cleanworks]

You need a pressure switch so that the pump only runs when it has to. Most RV pumps have them.

 

[Dwain Ray]

Ya the bypass didn't make much sense to me, seeing that most all these pumps are positive displacement diaphragm, how is it bypassing? And to where?, if this is a true prochem (sapphire scientific) waterpond it has a commercial Dayton pressure switch on the bladder tank i think the hydramaster does also, unless you have one of these flojet VSD pumps i don't know much about them but if you're controling the motor speed to controll pressure good luck, there's a whole bunch of other things there to go wrong and overload. Do you have a separate fuse in the system???

 

[Luky]

You need a pressure switch so the pump only runs when it has to. Most RV pumps have them.

My water transfer pump from pond to waterbox on my rigs, get this way after a while. I notice the switch is getting a little crusty too. The transfer pump is constantly running and bypassing when not being demanded.
Is this common?
View attachment 121794
View attachment 121795
The wires look a little frayed because it broke when I took the pic so I just have them shoved in there sloppy. It had a clean connection just burnt and the plastic brittle and broken off on the connectors.

Most Flojet ( Shurflo)transfer pumps have a pressure switch that stops flow where there is no demand; also, the pump is thermally protected; pump stops temporarily after running for a long time to protect itself from burning, the pump runs wet or dry, but sometimes with six hours of continuous run, it'll stop. I'm currently running a 3.3 Gpm flojet pump ( 2-7amps). What brand of transfer pump do you run? Do you have an expansion tank( for even pressure) like Dwain is showing in his pics? What is the pump's gpm? The higher the GPM, the higher the amperage; for example, 4.5 GPM would need up to 20 amps. You need only 35- 45 psi for any transfer pump. There is no way that wires or connectors should be burnt. Check the numbers on your pump( gpm, amps, and psi). How long is the hose running from the transfer pump to the holding tank and hot water tank, if any, respectively to the CAT ( pressure pump), and what is the diameter of the hose( 1/2", 5/8") more loops hose has on the way up, more quietly will enter the tank, so your float switch won't be flapping under a stream of incoming water. Ensure that your quick-disconnect terminals aren't exposed; they are tightly crimped and preferably protected with heat wraps; you can also lift the pump off the floor ( thick styrofoam would do the charm. ). How long are the wires; what is their gauge? The process of elimination is long but necessary. I hope that you'll succeed in finding the source of your problem. I'm hopeful that more guys chip in with their valuable insights.

 

[Mike J]

You need a pressure switch so that the pump only runs when it has to. Most RV pumps have them.

That would be good. I beleive it would have to have some "throw" in when it starts and stops. I thought the bypass was to prevent the pump from starting and stopping on the short water draws.

Maybe the pressure switch has the ability to do this?

 

[Mike J]

Ya the bypass didn't make much sense to me, seeing that most all these pumps are positive displacement diaphragm, how is it bypassing? And to where?, if this is a true prochem (sapphire scientific) waterpond it has a commercial Dayton pressure switch on the bladder tank i think the hydramaster does also, unless you have one of these flojet VSD pumps i don't know much about them but if you're controling the motor speed to controll pressure good luck, there's a whole bunch of other things there to go wrong and overload. Do you have a separate fuse in the system???

View attachment 121819 View attachment 121820 View attachment 121821

That is a nice pump. I like it turns down, not off, not full blast.

I fixed my connections by bypassing them. I just ran a homerun from the swith to the pump, less than 2 feet. The factory run of the electric to the pump is at least 10 feet and not a homerun.
(this also took care of the old connection to the switch). Now the pump is getting way better voltage, the wires should not be as hot. And just the hot wire was the one I replaced (to the red wire on pump, and confirmed with meter). It was barely getting 9 volts with the old wire.

 

[Dwain Ray]

That is a nice pump. I like it turns down, not off, not full blast.

I fixed my connections by bypassing them. I just ran a homerun from the swith to the pump, less than 2 feet. The factory run of the electric to the pump is at least 10 feet and not a homerun.
(this also took care of the old connection to the switch). Now the pump is getting way better voltage, the wires should not be as hot. And just the hot wire was the one I replaced (to the red wire on pump, and confirmed with meter). It was barely getting 9 volts with the old wire.

That is a nice pump. I like it turns down, not off, not full blast.

I fixed my connections by bypassing them. I just ran a homerun from the swith to the pump, less than 2 feet. The factory run of the electric to the pump is at least 10 feet and not a homerun.
(this also took care of the old connection to the switch). Now the pump is getting way better voltage, the wires should not be as hot. And just the hot wire was the one I replaced (to the red wire on pump, and confirmed with meter). It was barely getting 9 volts with the old wire.

Sound like you got a handle on it. Resistance = heat for sure. If the ground wire is that long it wouldn't hurt to shorten it also

 

[Cleanworks]

That would be good. I beleive it would have to have some "throw" in when it starts and stops. I thought the bypass was to prevent the pump from starting and stopping on the short water draws.

Maybe the pressure switch has the ability to do this?

In a RV, you turn the pump on and as it pressurized your system, it stops when it reaches full pressure. Just sits there waiting until you turn a tap on, then it kicks in until you turn the tap off. Exactly the same system as a portable extractor with a diaphragm pump. It only works when you pull the trigger. RV pumps come with flows usually 3-4 gpm