Cat damage...sealer question

[Zee]

So I told a customer I don't even want to start on a job because it is so badly damaged by three large cats. They are now picking out new carpet.

I explained about cats spraying everywhere not just carpets. It will smell from baseboards, curtains, upholstery, door frames etc... So I recommended sealing before the new carpet goes down on that concrete.

Installer they use, says, he never heard of sealing the concrete (!!!) And he's been doing installations for at least 15-20 years...

Guy doesn't really like me because I had to have them come back many times over the years to fix loose carpets they installed. (same property managment uses them and me)
Also because I explained to the management about the pos carpets he sells them- need to stop buying that carpet..but anyways he doesn't have to like me.

I just want the customer's cat problem taken care if the best we can, short of shooting the cats.


What is the latest greatest sealer for concrete against cat odors? (it smells like the big cats cages at the zoo..incredibly stinky).

 

[tmdry]

I would have them run a black pitch dark in that room along all the baseboard/drywall prior to sealing, I'd remove any noticeable area that has cat pee/spray, some cats will put their behinds on the walls and lift their rear to spray above the baseboard. I'd also check all the tackstrips for any noticeable stains. Clean with degreaser from unsmoke w/ turbo, than at least 2 coats of bin sealer, w/ no guarantee that the odor will return.

 

[Harry Myers]

Sealing. I'm not a believer I use enzymes. Spray the hell out of it. It may take 2 or 3 times. Charge for it. I done it many times and it works. Sealer is like a Deodorizer they don't work.

 

[DangerkittyToTheRescue]

Thornell's Odorcide 210, mixed in a pump sprayer or even a Hydro-Force HP sprayer, saturate everything, let it soak in really well, overnight if possible, it's non-toxic, no real need to rinse unless the concrete is yellow from urine. Follow with Killz, that's your sealer after everything is dry.

We like the Odorcide 210 because it denatures the odor molecule, almost instantly, but let it soak in real well, it has to come in contact with the odor to do its job.

Goes without saying, I'm sure you've been there before but anything that has been contaminated with cat urine that you can tear out, the better off you are.

We had a HEPA air scrubber in one job followed by a hydroxyl generator, you know, to clear the air, it was later discovered that one of the technicians was discretely hiding 1/4 sticks of OdorX cherry flavor bad odor blocks at the job, didn't smell like cat anymore.

Cat urine, that's a tough job, hope you get through it ok.

 

[Dolly Llama]

some cats will put their behinds on the walls and lift their rear to spray above the baseboard.

^^this^^

in particular, door jambs .....that's favorite spot
if the home is occupied and furnished , likely some of the furniture has been "hit" as well
as Tmdry mentioned, anything "butt high" can be effected

i don't know how bad the one's Harry has done, but concrete is porous and needs more than a couple applications of enzyme or oxidizer
...if/when it's bad, It needs sealed TOO after the enzyme or oxidizer

a shellac based sealer like oil base Kilz is OK, but Zinsser BIN is better from my experience
do the oxi or enzyme first, then TWO coats of Zinsser BIN

but again, there's a VERY good possibility there's contamination beyond just the floor



oh yea, one more thing

"Installer they use, says, he never heard of sealing the concrete"

the installer is an idiot

..L.T.A.

 

[Desk Jockey]

Remove that tack strip also. The installer will love that but it is usually saturated and is just a wick for urine odor.