i cleaned a foreclosed home that my custy recently bought and moved in to.when i got there i could smell cat piss,so i mixed up some powerburst and added my deo and pretreated the cat piss out of the carpet.dwell 20 mins.steam clean really well and done.thinkin to myself this place is gonna smell like hell when it dries.custy called me 2 weeks later and wanted her othet house done because,after my cleaning she was rolling all over her carpet and even 2 weeks later she could still smell my deodorizer.....
cat piss
- Thread starter glenboy
- Start date
Ron Werner
Member
what's powerburst and what's your deo?
Hoody
Supportive Member
Powerburst <--- Higher pH product that has enzymes built in, and I believe there is an oxidizer in there as well. Was my go to apartment cleaning prespray for a long time.
joe harper
Member
"I AM SURE THAT MOST KNOW..!"
BUT for those that ..DO NOT...!
The reason that CAT urine is so difficult is because of the STICKY UREA... :!:
Cats are feed an EXTREEMLY high PROTEIN diet....!!!!!!!!
Their digestive system processes this protein into a VERY STICKY by-product
and is CONCENTRATED in their urine.. :x
HIGH alkaline & heat ...MUST be used to break the UREA down... :!:
UNTIL...you break the UREA down...The ODOR will be present..!!!!
This is why many have a good result...when "BOOSTING"...their pre-sray with
SP or H2O2....These chems..ELEVATE the "PH"...in the prespray... !gotcha!
Unless your deodorizer contains a "quaternary ammonia"...it has just left a fragrance..!
Ps...In a PINCH....especially when the client will NOT spring for the urine treatment... :x
You can ADD common household ammonia to your prespray...&...achieve good results.. :idea:
BUT for those that ..DO NOT...!
The reason that CAT urine is so difficult is because of the STICKY UREA... :!:
Cats are feed an EXTREEMLY high PROTEIN diet....!!!!!!!!
Their digestive system processes this protein into a VERY STICKY by-product
and is CONCENTRATED in their urine.. :x
HIGH alkaline & heat ...MUST be used to break the UREA down... :!:
UNTIL...you break the UREA down...The ODOR will be present..!!!!
This is why many have a good result...when "BOOSTING"...their pre-sray with
SP or H2O2....These chems..ELEVATE the "PH"...in the prespray... !gotcha!
Unless your deodorizer contains a "quaternary ammonia"...it has just left a fragrance..!
Ps...In a PINCH....especially when the client will NOT spring for the urine treatment... :x
You can ADD common household ammonia to your prespray...&...achieve good results.. :idea:
lust1kiddo
Supportive Member
For cat pee..i use urine contamination treatment or acid rinse first. Its the salts that attract the smell. Even after your done blasting away, you cant tell if its completely gone until the next humid day. When the humidity hits the salts, then it will re enact the smell.
Anyway, after I use the urine contamination or acid rinse, i blast off with the claw. then rinse..and water claw again.
Lastly, i hit it with some molecular modifier from CTI..smells great and the enzymes keep working on whats left over.
I know everyone has their own thing that works, this process is just what does the trick for me.
I follow up with everyone, and there are times when i did have to return..but those are few and far between.
Good luck gents,
Jarred
:mrgreen:
Anyway, after I use the urine contamination or acid rinse, i blast off with the claw. then rinse..and water claw again.
Lastly, i hit it with some molecular modifier from CTI..smells great and the enzymes keep working on whats left over.
I know everyone has their own thing that works, this process is just what does the trick for me.
I follow up with everyone, and there are times when i did have to return..but those are few and far between.
Good luck gents,
Jarred
:mrgreen:
Goomer
Member
lust1kiddo said:
You should try fitting some OSR into that sequence. Flush the salts with the acid first, then soak and flush with OSR, them MM for the cat piss triple-play.
lust1kiddo
Supportive Member
I have found that the osr leaves the carpet discolored..plus its an extra step that I haven't found necessary yet. And mosttimes i dont even see a stain...its just odor and i use the moisture detector ( best 15 bucks i ever spent) to locate it.
Ron Werner
Member
$15 for a moisture detector???
What brand do you have?
I checked price of the briefcase model from Drieaz and its $200!!! Canadian, once its across the border :roll:
What brand do you have?
I checked price of the briefcase model from Drieaz and its $200!!! Canadian, once its across the border :roll:
The Asian Sensation
Member
- Joined
- Oct 7, 2006
- Messages
- 1,156
Ron Werner said:
You know, the ones that you would have to go "beep beep beep" from your mouth. lol
J Scott W
Member
Some folks will use the Wet Check or the Sonin Moisture meter as a detector for moisture. There certainly are better and more convenient tools, but these are both under $30.
sweendogg
Member
lust1kiddo said:
Jarred, I know we have talked a little about urine decontamination. And while its a good idea to go after urine with a good acid first to flush.
The OSR becomes a replacement for your Enzyme treatment. In fact I've found that if you try to add enzyme or any other product to OSR, you increase the likely hood of discoloring the carpet. Also its important to only use the minimum dilution so you don't have so much oxidizer that it discolors the carpet. Otherwise... OSR can be a much more effective and faster way of removing older urine spots of heavy contamination in certain situations.
Never on Natural Fibers though.
Ron Werner
Member
glenboy said:
Thanks somewhat amus
lust1kiddo
Supportive Member
Yeah Sweeny, If the carpet is stained then I have the osr. but truth is most times for some reason I dont find it that way. It normally just smells. And..I almost always clean natural fibers. Sweeny, you have been a great help.
