Choosing new carpet

[jstucky]

Hey everyone.


Choosing new carpet for MY house that I'm fixing up right now. Small 3 1/2 bedroom. Re-did all the wood in main Kitchen DR/LR 3rd Bedroom and will do tile in Back porch and bath. 2 side Bedrooms, 1 up and 1 down I am going to put carpet

I couldn't find anything in History. Maybe I wasn't wording things right.

I probably won't live there for more than a few years but not sure. Don't want too expensive but nothing cheap.

Cut pile Nylon?? Bedrooms will be low traffic and I'll be doing a neutral to darker color. Maybe light-medium brownish. Don't wan't any frize. Any suggestions????

Should I just apply protective coating myself or is it worth it at all to get factory? It sounds like people have been saying factory application has diminished the thoroughness (is that a word) with how it is applied?


Thanks all

Jordan

 

[Guest]

Why not a frize? This is a personnel preference aside from the make of fiber,but a frize is a good choice in heavy traffic,because the yarn is twisted it blends very well in the traffic areas.Jmo

 

[Royal Man]

My experience with frize carpet is that after a few months the traffic areas lay down and turn grey.

I think there are 2 main contributing factors.

1. The fibers are spread much further apart than most other carpets. (your fingers tips go right to the backing without any effort)

2. And due to the fiber content the fibers absorb oil and flatten.

Just make sure you get a medium grade nylon and remember that when you look at samples. The selected carpet will appear lighter when installed.

Most important remember that the warranties are more salesmanship than product innovation.

 

[The Preacher]

get a top quality pad and a decent weighted soloution dyed nylon and never worry about it again.

if you sell the place it can be used as a sales point!!!

 

[sweendogg]

My experience with frize carpet is that after a few months the traffic areas lay down and turn grey. Sounds like a Polyester Frieze vs a Nylon Frieze

I think there are 2 main contributing factors.

1. The fibers are spread much further apart than most other carpets. (your fingers tips go right to the backing without any effort) Sure on a cheap Frieze, a good quality Frize will be alot more dense and a tighter twist.

2. And due to the fiber content the fibers absorb oil and flatten.Again don't buy polyester Frieze's go with a Nylone Frieze and all these characteristics go away

Just make sure you get a medium grade nylon and remember that when you look at samples. The selected carpet will appear lighter when installed. Not always depends on the color and room conditions.. Some carpets will look alot darker. However until they are vacuumed the first time they will lay flatter from being in the rolls.

Most important remember that the warranties are more salesmanship than product innovation.

Its good advise to stick with a nylon carpet and if you can find a desent solution dyed carpet you would be set. Someother things to consider. How large are the rooms? Roles tend to come in 12 ft widths however some products will come in 13'2" and 15' widths. This can eliminate seams in certain situations. Also look at the backing of the carpet. What is the pick count or the number of rows per inch? The higher the pick count the better a carpet will hold a stretch. Beware of the softbac carpets. Yes they will keep install safe for poor installers but generally the felt is glued over a very open pick back and thus carept does not have as much residual strength. If you are planning on selling in a few years, I would stick with a bonded pad about 8lb density and keep it to 7/16. Pads over a half inch thick will cause deterioration in the backing and can cause some installation issues. Installation wise, a power stretcher is mandatory not optional and if there is seaming, all seams must be sealed with latex or themoplastic before seaming can take place. Ask about transitions. While some carpets lend themselves to rolling and tucking, a quality metal transition in the doorway would be a tap down and not a flatmetal. If the carpet is buttng up to hardwood or tile, the carpet can be tucked to said surfaces if they are raised above the sublfoor. I know lots of info but these are some things to think about but if you cover your bases you can get a quality carpet and install without braking the bank as long as you know what to look out for.

 

[Guest]

My experience with frize carpet is that after a few months the traffic areas lay down and turn grey.

I think there are 2 main contributing factors.

1. The fibers are spread much further apart than most other carpets. (your fingers tips go right to the backing without any effort)

2. And due to the fiber content the fibers absorb oil and flatten.

Just make sure you get a medium grade nylon and remember that when you look at samples. The selected carpet will appear lighter when installed.

Most important remember that the warranties are more salesmanship than product innovation.

From a wear stand point,it aready looks that way,so when cleaning it will blend in well,but I am talking about 100% nylon not the poly blend.

 

[Dolly Llama]

if you plan to sell it soon, go with a neutral color.
Stay on the lighter side of the browns. (beige works well)
Lighter colored carpets make rooms look bigger.
Neutral color like beige will fly with any prospective buyer's furnishings

I think all carpets come with stain resist jucie applied at the mill now-a-days.
(I can't recall ever seeing any without stain resist mentioned on the label)

Nylon is best for cut piles.
The quality would depend on your budget and how soon you intend to sell.

if you plan to put it on the market right away, I'd stick any low/mid grade nylon it it.
(they all look good when new)
and any cut pile will show traffic patterns after a couple years of use regardless of quality

if you intend to live there several years, it would depend on your traffic/use as to what I'd put in


..L.T.A.

 

[Jack May]

Wool... all the way!!

I'm going to back Danny's advice, too many only think carpet and forget the importance of a QUALITY pad. No point in a quality carpet on a cheap useless pad...

Steer clear of those 'free underlay' deals you see (at least in NZ) all the time.

John

 

[sweendogg]

Wool and nothing too expensive don't really fit together. We love it when our customers invest in wool carpets.. but thats what it is.. an investment not a purchase. And yes he could get a 22 lb urethane rubber lasting him 15-20 years with an anitmicrobial treatment or an 8-10 bonded which will last about 7-10 years with out problems. If he gets wool he could even go with a hair pad! But 8lb bonded would be my starting point. Nothing less than that density.

 

[Jack May]

David, being from an area where I pretty much only clean wool carpets, I personally wouldn't have anything else. BUT it was said tongue in cheek in this thread.

I hear ya on the pad thing, but I see so many homes where the carpet is starting look really sad, flat and dead in traffic lanes and when you lift it back, the pad had DIED, collapsed, disintegrated whatever. and the whole home/installation might only be 2-5 years old.

I'm not an installer, nor in sales so not up with the numbers you have quoted above on weights, which is why I never quoted any myself, but if you have a choice, err on the side of heavier weight.

Thanks for your comments.

John

 

[Willy P]

I can get you a deal on some polyester/olefin blend.......