Cleaning Upholstery
- Thread starter lesterj2
- Start date
Mikey P
Administrator
Don't think, take a class.
KevinL
Supportive Member
No. he is serious Jack. Upholstery is a lot less forgiving than carpet. Pretty easy to ruin a piece if you don't know what you are doing. Sure most synthetics are pretty tough but you need to be able to identify the dangerous ones. I don't care what the rest of you say. If someone goes into this business without training under someone more experienced or taking a ton of classes, you are a hack and you always will be.
How I do upholstery is:
Pre-spray- with trigger sprayer, extra spray for extra nasty.
Agitate- I use white towels from sams club-$13.00 for 12 last a while
Extract- I use all fiber rinse but will soon be going to judsons.
Towel dry.
People will probably have better ways to do it, this is just my way.
Taking a class will help alot if your not in the business of buying used furniture!
Pre-spray- with trigger sprayer, extra spray for extra nasty.
Agitate- I use white towels from sams club-$13.00 for 12 last a while
Extract- I use all fiber rinse but will soon be going to judsons.
Towel dry.
People will probably have better ways to do it, this is just my way.
Taking a class will help alot if your not in the business of buying used furniture!
Becker
Member
5 years in the trade, and you ask these questions?
I would love to help you, but first you must help yourself in order to save your arse and also to get others to help you.
What is the fabric ??
Why do you need to use such a high pH ??
Simply put...................... different fibres respond to different techniques, solutions, agitation and temperatures.
Basics are
Spread drop sheets on floor.
Vacuum all fabric, checking for faults at the same time.
Apply correct pH pre-spray.
Dwell.
Agitate as required with respect to the fibres involved.
Rinse extract, solution pressure & vacuum will also depend on the fabric concerned.
Towel dry & groom.
Inspect.
NOTE::: Some fabrics and spots, it may be neccesary to treat prior to pre-spray.
Knowing your fibres and the limits you can use pH as well as pressure, heat and agitation goes a long way in saving your arse and your business.
Upholstery, as others have wisely pointed out, is a lot less forgiving than carpet.
If you are unsure, do a class that offers hands on experience, non commital scenarios such as you have painted are not much use to anyone in trying to supply a half decent response.
If you care to ignore the basics in cleaning, you may well find yourself owning several usless pieces of furniture.
Ooroo
:roll:
What is the fabric ??
Why do you need to use such a high pH ??
Simply put...................... different fibres respond to different techniques, solutions, agitation and temperatures.
Basics are
Spread drop sheets on floor.
Vacuum all fabric, checking for faults at the same time.
Apply correct pH pre-spray.
Dwell.
Agitate as required with respect to the fibres involved.
Rinse extract, solution pressure & vacuum will also depend on the fabric concerned.
Towel dry & groom.
Inspect.
NOTE::: Some fabrics and spots, it may be neccesary to treat prior to pre-spray.
Knowing your fibres and the limits you can use pH as well as pressure, heat and agitation goes a long way in saving your arse and your business.
Upholstery, as others have wisely pointed out, is a lot less forgiving than carpet.
If you are unsure, do a class that offers hands on experience, non commital scenarios such as you have painted are not much use to anyone in trying to supply a half decent response.
If you care to ignore the basics in cleaning, you may well find yourself owning several usless pieces of furniture.
Ooroo
:roll:
SRI Cleaning
Member
I use Outset by matrix (sometimes I boost with peroxide)
-Spray with a trigger sprayer or a quart pump up type
-aggitate with a horsehair brush or towels
-Extract with an acid rinse (i like using the drymaster)
i only do that on fibers that I know to be synthetic as I havent taken any classes yet but i plan to.
-Spray with a trigger sprayer or a quart pump up type
-aggitate with a horsehair brush or towels
-Extract with an acid rinse (i like using the drymaster)
i only do that on fibers that I know to be synthetic as I havent taken any classes yet but i plan to.
MikeD00019
Member
- Joined
- May 15, 2008
- Messages
- 119
lesterj2 said:dude i cleaned carpets with a RugDoctor... have you read any of my post are you just come with SmartAss replys for everything...Becker said:
and besides it is a Message Booard without new questions and ideas the board will be nothing...
NICE!!
I give you tons of credit for growing a business at the correct speed. NOT jumping in head first.
From rug doctor to riches......
Bob Foster
Member
- Joined
- Oct 8, 2006
- Messages
- 8,870
I know you have a kid at home but at least try and get a ride along for a couple of days with someone. That might be easier for you now. The carpet course and the upholstery course are a must.
It's also cheaper to take a course than to pay for a piece of furniture that you screwed up.
It's also cheaper to take a course than to pay for a piece of furniture that you screwed up.
OK, Bob now here you go with the same nonsense... About having to replace something that I may or may not screw up...
I was just wondering what are the different steps to do it properly compared to cleaning carpet... I undertand you alls concern but I think I get the picture now upholstery can easily be screwed over...
I was just wondering what are the different steps to do it properly compared to cleaning carpet... I undertand you alls concern but I think I get the picture now upholstery can easily be screwed over...
bob vawter
Grassy Knoller
you guys are being....had!
Shawn Forsythe
RIP
Lester,
The first step in cleaning any textile is determining the fabric/fiber type and the nature of any construction elements that will alter the cleaning process for the fabric/fiber type.
Joey Pickett's words from the first five minutes of the upholstery class I completed with him, will explain a lot.
Once you know the fiber/fabric type, AND the nature of the construction, the particular process will be indicated. There is no "one method for all". Thus you need to take a class!
If it was simple, your customer would not need a professional.
The first step in cleaning any textile is determining the fabric/fiber type and the nature of any construction elements that will alter the cleaning process for the fabric/fiber type.
Joey Pickett's words from the first five minutes of the upholstery class I completed with him, will explain a lot.
Once you know the fiber/fabric type, AND the nature of the construction, the particular process will be indicated. There is no "one method for all". Thus you need to take a class!
If it was simple, your customer would not need a professional.
I took the upholstery class on my way to Master Textile Cleaner......Blah Blah Blah except cotton and canvas. I go at every piece of furniture with high heat and high vacuum but mke sure you have a glide and watch for tears.
275 PSI with a vac adjusted tool and make sure you got a bucket to spray down time off and keep the heat up That is most furniture learn your furniture. Walk away from canvas, cotton rowe and walk away from any pottery barn
275 PSI with a vac adjusted tool and make sure you got a bucket to spray down time off and keep the heat up That is most furniture learn your furniture. Walk away from canvas, cotton rowe and walk away from any pottery barn
Becker
Member
I started with a rug dr. not the cri approved one. but the old school one.
the store knew me so well were I rented it.
I then bought a used one from the local rug dr dealer, then moved up to a ninja.
I don't read all posts. so, no I'm not up to speed with all posters.
I agree, take a class.
the store knew me so well were I rented it.
I then bought a used one from the local rug dr dealer, then moved up to a ninja.
I don't read all posts. so, no I'm not up to speed with all posters.
I agree, take a class.
Loren Egland
Member
Keep pH low and use a Hydrokinetic tool. Gets it clean and does it safely. Water temperature not TOO hot. If this doesn't work, don't bother.
Ron Werner
Member
lesterj2 said:
3]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t5n7KHaE0Mw3]
as Shawn said, KNOW the fabric! How? Take a course.
Know how which method to clean it, can you clean it, should you walk? How do you know? Take a course.
Have the proper solutions and tools. Which ones? Take a course. AND search here on the board, lots of posts.
Kwow how to use the proper solutions and tools. How? Take a course.
Lester, most of the guys on this board have been cleaning furniture, and carpets, for a looooong time. When you ask a question, they will give you the BEST answer they know how. From how you phrased your question, you got the correct answer many times. When you watch my video, keep in mind I'm a Master Textile Cleaner and I've had enough courses to give me the knowledge to make cleaning look easy.
Steve Marsh said that he took about 5 courses within a short time so he would REALLY learn and retain the knowledge so he could clean with confidence.
Nate The Great
Member
I'm fortunate to have a strict Dad who was a "Certified Instructor for IICRC". My mom knows her dyeing and upholstery cleaning.
Like everyone else is saying either take a class or find someone to take you under there wing.
Like everyone else is saying either take a class or find someone to take you under there wing.
Jim Martin
Supportive Member
Here is a mixture that I use on probably 95% of all the UPH I clean......It is stable and never given me any type of problems...( always test it though )... I highly recommend you take a class because as already mentioned above UPH is less forgiving then carpet...
1 gal of warm water
2 oz of boost all
8 oz of fine fabric shampoo
2 oz of citric solve
( add 2 oz of buff all if it is a real dirty cotton )
this mix has about a hour life span and then it starts losing it effectiveness...you don't have to make a gal ..just adjust accordingly to what you will use..
UPH is a good add on to your company if done correct it will raise your bottom line ......if done wrong..you will find out how expensive it can be....
1 gal of warm water
2 oz of boost all
8 oz of fine fabric shampoo
2 oz of citric solve
( add 2 oz of buff all if it is a real dirty cotton )
this mix has about a hour life span and then it starts losing it effectiveness...you don't have to make a gal ..just adjust accordingly to what you will use..
UPH is a good add on to your company if done correct it will raise your bottom line ......if done wrong..you will find out how expensive it can be....
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