Compared odorcide, Quatalot, hydracide & mb deoderizer t

tim

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After a long pet urine job today, I decided to try a test with ammonia with a 1-2 dilution (2 part ammonia) with Quatalot, Odorcide, Hydracide, and Master Blend Allergy Deoderizer (a Craig Jasper recommendation) The best results were hydracide and and mb. I was shocked. The rage on the boards is Quats and my personal favorite has been odorcide. You guys try it out and let me know if you find the same results. the odorcide still burned my nose, and quat still had a twang. the hydracide was completely neutralized and so was the master blend. Test it out and lets see if you concur.
 

Bob Foster

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Please tell us how you applied the different solutions. Application method and dilutions please.
 

tim

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All I did is mix straight, 1 ounce to 2 ounces of ammonia. I waited a minute and gave it a whiff. The odorcide mixture burned my nose, the quat mixture still had a slight ammonia odor, hydracide was completely neutral as was the masterblend product. I may try diluting the products tommorow.
 

tim

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The idea behind a odor counteractant or pairing agent is to neutralize offensive odors. I took a strong, offensive odor, ammonia, and added the counteractant to see which product seemed to neutralize the malodor the most effectively. Because animals olfactory nerves are the only way to detect odor and my dog doesnt talk, I figure the only way to measure effectiveness is to test the counteractants in exact quantities added to the malodor, ammonia, in an equal amount and smell to determine which one neutralized the odor. This came about when I tried neutralizing urine odor in an extreme urine job by cleaning the front and back of a year old nylon and was disappointed with the results of the quatalot and not overly enthused by odorcide. I am running out of odorcide and need to buy another case, but at $100 a gallon, I wanted to know if there was an equally effective odor counteractant at a better price. When I returned to the office, I added ammonia in different containers then added the same amount of various counteractants to see which one could neutralize the strong odor the best. It was that or pee in a cup myself as most dogs dont like you following them around with a cup! It may not be the most scientific test, but it did pique my interest. I would be interested in any ones personal side by side comparisons other than a single product applied in a job. I have had very good sucess with osr, odorcide and dd12 but this job was less than stellar. Guess we all have them but it made me take a little harder look at odor counteractants since I need to place an order soon.
 

tim

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ODORCIDE 210 - GALLON
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Works WITH detergents and disinfectants
Simply add to your cleaning operation for bath rooms, sports facilities, offices and more
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Single Gallon $97.90 / gal
Case of 4 Gallon $96.50 / gal

Greenie, this is pasted off Pembertons website, local interlink is more. I think John O. is less money but shipping closes the gap. Quatalot is about $85 a gallon but is less dilution so more economical.
 

tim

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steve, osr is always our first product to attack urine, it is excellent on the stains as well. But recently we have found that mixing an odor counteractant with it at the time of application is twice as good. You get the oxidizing and enzyme properties of osr along with the additional odor neutralizing properties of the odor counteractant. My mixture has been
8 ounces of osr per gallon of HOT water, 8 ounces of odorcide and 4 ounces of spice air as a masking agent. I use spice air as it has a more pleasant aroma than odorcide. Then I add DD12 to my prespray when I clean. I dont always clean as OSR is to be the last step but sometime it brings crap up with the OSR when waterclawing. This urine job was extensive from 2 large labs. For whatever reason, osr and odorcide wasnt killing all the odor. Much better, but not gone. So I tried quatalot, same results. So, with my odorcide supply running low, I decided to test some odor counteractants to determine what I want to mix with OSR. But OSR is awesome, I will boost my prespray with it (4 scoops to 2 gallons) when I have a doggy problem but not enough to do the waterclaw treatment (another Craig Jasper tip)
 

Bob Foster

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Tim, very interesting testing. And I appreciate the thought you put into it.

For everyone’s information the price of QuatALot is $74.95 a gallon and not at the higher price mentioned in a previous post.

We would like to make sure that the QuatALot is being diluted and applied appropriately.

I wonder if beyond pairing and getting to the killing of odor sources there might be a different outcome.

The DD12 has a fragrance added to a much lower concentration of quaternary ammonia and should be considered a dual purpose product. Because DD12 does contain quaternary ammonia it has deodorizing power and in addition it has some foo foo fragrance for pleasantness that helps your presentation to your customers.

QuatALot in the Judson line is its big gun used for killing the cause of the odor. And it is true to the Judson philosophy of high content/concentration si it has a large amount of its most active ingredients in a jug compared to many other competitive deodorizing products. QuatALot's active ingredient is quaternary ammonia with a very small amount of fragrance in it as well.

In defense of the QuatALot and not taking away the least from your thorough and thoughtful testing I would suggest the following is very important for a successful result using QuatALot.

Make sure that the QuatALot is appropriately diluted, allowed to penetrate and allowed to dwell.

http://www.truckmountdepot.com/MSDSQuatALot.pdf
 

John Olson

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Tim I just put a Shipping special in the suppliers room for Mikeys Board Members. I am sure it more then offsets the price concerns you had :)
 

Farenheit251

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My understanding is that quat a lot and other quat products work by killing the microbes that are off gassing and creating an odor. The odor from amonia is not caused by microbes. To neutralize amonia a pairing agent would probably work best. I'm not sure if quat a lot is the best or not but for under $2 for a 2 gallon sprayerful I can't see any reason not to pretreat before cleaning with it. Today I did that with Odorcide after the cleaning.
I am going to try Larry Cobb's Dynacide next. While everyone else has raised prices about 30% in the last 2 years most of Cobb's stuff has remained the same.
 

DevilDog

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Ok, if we are talking about the OSR I use...it is not an enzyme as far as I know unless they have changed the formulation.

As far as Odorcide not being able to handle the odor. The only way that is going to happen is if you did NOT hit the urine source or the Odorcide was not diluted properly.

Although Odorcide can be expensive you do NOT dilute it weakly. Use at LEAST as much as recommended and maybe 10% more.

Remember, remove as much of the urine source as possible FIRST.

I do really like the idea of mixing Odorcide and OSR together. This is a kickass combination that will take care of almost anything you run into. You can put this down first and extract as much of the urine source as possible.

Then you can follow up with a more lightly diluted version of Odorcide.

When doing it this way just make sure you use a good powdered de-foamer. It really helps you extract better.

I guess I will have to go back and look at OSR, from my understanding all these years there WAS not enzymes in this product.

DevilDog
 

Greenie

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lots of talk about enzyme pre-sprays etc.... If you talk with seasoned chemist off the record, they will tell you enzymes are bunk, unless you let them work for an hour, and don't apply them super hot in the first place, you aren't going to get any enzyme to "work" in a typical 10 min. dwell. It's all just marketing.
 

DevilDog

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Yep. I just consulted with someone that likes to use enzymes. Not the way to go anymore.

They take longer than most give them time for, they lead to wicking and resoiling issues.

There are better ways.

DevilDog
 

Larry Cobb

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Greenie & Todd;

There are two different types of "enzyme" products used in pet odor treatment:

1. The original "enzyme deodorant" which is a bacterial spore solution that must grow on a food source to produce the enzyme. This process does take ~30 minutes for a significant production of enzyme.

2. An actual pure enzyme, such as we use in our Odor Attack. It immediately starts breaking down urine deposits and other proteins into simpler compounds.

The second type is more expensive, but a better performer.

Larry
 

Jimmy L

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That OnSlaught is a good product too. Cheaper than the Odorcides.
 

Larry Cobb

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Greenie;

Proteins at restaurants would be:

1. Meats
2. Eggs
3. Blood
4. Glutens
5. Saliva (rodents/pets)
6. Urine (rodents/pets)

These 3-D structures are broken down by Protease enzymes into small fragments which are easily removed by extraction methods.

Food grease, on the other hand, requires another type of enzyme called Lipase. It is more difficult to formulate and less stable. I do have some varieties for special projects. 8)

Larry
 

Duane Oxley

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"everyone else has raised prices about 30% in the last 2 years..."[/i]

Not, "everyone"... We've raised our prices less than 10%.

"...active ingredient is quaternary ammonia with a very small amount of fragrance in it as well."

In high concentrations, Quat neutralizes most fragrances. So it couldn't have much in the way of fragrance. Fragrance would have to be purchased and added separately.

"I just consulted with someone that likes to use enzymes. Not the way to go anymore... They take longer than most give them time for, they lead to wicking and resoiling issues... There are better ways. "

For odor control, you're correct. Regarding resoiling, same is true for the concentrated products used as deodorizers, if they're not flushed out very thoroughly... and they don't flush so easily as a rule.

I still see products like PeeBeGone as the best choice. They go to work immediately, remove the actual source of the odor, work quickly, and flush easily, if they (like PeeBeGone) are designed to flush easily.
 

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