Mikey P
Administrator
lets hear your ideas..
Mikey P said:lets hear your ideas..
Brett said:The perfect porty is going to be different for everyone based on how many cords they want to run, how much weight they can handle and how far they want to run hose. Lets's say we leave electric heat out of the unit since most guy know its amp draw, weight, and heat inside the compartment cause problems. You could always make it an option. The main body when going upstairs should weigh no more than 55-60lbs. A modular removable 50 lb heavy duty pump with qds solves alot of the weight issues. A removable solution tank saves more. The solution tank, 14-16 gallons, should not be combined in the same mold as the rest of the unit. It doesn't have to be strong like the rest of the body and recovery tank. Recovery tank in back with handle, pump and solution tank in front stacked, but both removable. Probably around 65lbs can be taken off the front of the machine for stairs and loading. Room for 4 2 stages or 3 3 stages would probably be enough.Triple climbing wheels would be nice. Maybe a single foam filled wider wheel up front. Little casters suck. You can also make the recovery tank large, 14-16 gallons, but removable also with vac hose and quick release cuffs. You can also make smaller tanks available since they are removable. Mold the handle to a base unit only. If done right, you could take off the pump, solution tank and recovery tank in less than a minute. Make the openings of the solution and recovery large enough to put both you arms into and you can use them for hauling your supplies and getting to the filters and floats. Apo and AF can be separate units. I like the air hog dumping the water before it has to be sucked back to the main porty, saves your main motors from getting foam and water in them, and gives you better suction. If you bring all the solution hose and vac hose out from the base unit and up the sides into the tanks, you should have no fittings of any kind going through the bottom of the tanks. No water leaks on your motors or electrical if done right. Water tight gaskets on the base with one or two removable plastic lids that the tanks sit on assures this. Pump and regulator are in separate housing on top of the water tight lid. Switches can be molded into the base unit up high or down low for easy truck or van use as a base unit. I like see thru tanks and orange float ball when not using AF or APO. I'll never buy a 154lb M5. But I would buy a Modular one that is set up right.
NobleCarpetCleaners said:For some reason no one seems to care about noise level...
a senior living facility for upholstery cleaning.
Shorty Down Under said:For me, the ideal machine would be:
A compact upright, similar shape to the Masterblend TF3500.
The weight must be evenly distributed so as to make it easy to take up stairs, so not heavy over the front.
It would need to be continuous fill & empty to eliminate the bucket brigade.
A Air-hog could also be used in place of the waste pump, not only to save weight in the machine, but also electricity draw.
The Air-hog would also improve airflow, but it would be one more item to carry.
The beauty of the Air-hog is that it can be placed near any disposal point, not kept next to the machine.
Two x 2/3 stage vacs;
Plumbed for two inches from start to finish.
Variable 1200psi pump for those that do T & G
Large pump up tires, not those bendable ones like DriEaz use on their dehums;
These make it very easy on stairs and over sand, gravel, grass, etc;
Larger wheels at the front that have a brake on them.
Decent lifting handles to manouver the machine around & make loading unloading easier.
Solution & waste tanks should be at a MAXIMUM of 5 gallons each.
Being continuous fill & empty, why do you need such a waste of machinery.
This would also cut down on weight.
All controls/switches at the top front of the machine.
Get rid of those stupid screw on vacuum seal plates on top of the waste tank, and replace them with a quick/easy remove dome that the vac; hose pushes onto.
This is a simple perspex dome with a rubber grommet around the edge that sits in a recess on top of the waste tank.
When the vacs; are turned on, the dome is pulled tight onto the body of the machine, sealing the dome.
Solution outlet at the bottom, also an outlet to make emptying the solution tank easier when the job is finished.
Water fill quick release at the top/side of the machine that an ordinary solution hose would click onto.
Electric leads:NONE, instead have two caravan type male plug outlets that you can simply plug your extension leads into. These also lock down so the plugs don't fall out.
If one lead stuffs up, it's easy to replace. Just pick the length lead you need for the job.
Have the machine hinged so that work on the motors, etc; can be carried out whilst the machine is standing upright.
Even a hinged plate at the rear of the machine that drops down to service the running gear would be an advantage.
We will all have ideas of what would suit us best, two years down the track, we will probably have added another service and want another toy. shiteatinggrin !gotcha!
Ooroo,
:roll:
John LaBarbera said:[quote="Shorty Down Under":798kdfkl]For me, the ideal machine would be:
A compact upright, similar shape to the Masterblend TF3500.
The weight must be evenly distributed so as to make it easy to take up stairs, so not heavy over the front.
It would need to be continuous fill & empty to eliminate the bucket brigade.
A Air-hog could also be used in place of the waste pump, not only to save weight in the machine, but also electricity draw.
The Air-hog would also improve airflow, but it would be one more item to carry.
The beauty of the Air-hog is that it can be placed near any disposal point, not kept next to the machine.
Two x 2/3 stage vacs;
Plumbed for two inches from start to finish.
Variable 1200psi pump for those that do T & G
Large pump up tires, not those bendable ones like DriEaz use on their dehums;
These make it very easy on stairs and over sand, gravel, grass, etc;
Larger wheels at the front that have a brake on them.
Decent lifting handles to manouver the machine around & make loading unloading easier.
Solution & waste tanks should be at a MAXIMUM of 5 gallons each.
Being continuous fill & empty, why do you need such a waste of machinery.
This would also cut down on weight.
All controls/switches at the top front of the machine.
Get rid of those stupid screw on vacuum seal plates on top of the waste tank, and replace them with a quick/easy remove dome that the vac; hose pushes onto.
This is a simple perspex dome with a rubber grommet around the edge that sits in a recess on top of the waste tank.
When the vacs; are turned on, the dome is pulled tight onto the body of the machine, sealing the dome.
Solution outlet at the bottom, also an outlet to make emptying the solution tank easier when the job is finished.
Water fill quick release at the top/side of the machine that an ordinary solution hose would click onto.
Electric leads:NONE, instead have two caravan type male plug outlets that you can simply plug your extension leads into. These also lock down so the plugs don't fall out.
If one lead stuffs up, it's easy to replace. Just pick the length lead you need for the job.
Have the machine hinged so that work on the motors, etc; can be carried out whilst the machine is standing upright.
Even a hinged plate at the rear of the machine that drops down to service the running gear would be an advantage.
We will all have ideas of what would suit us best, two years down the track, we will probably have added another service and want another toy. shiteatinggrin !gotcha!
Ooroo,
:roll:
Vinnie said:That guy Ken Harris says he will have the perfect porty at the next convention. Says it will make all other portys obsoliet.