Greasy Restys

tmdry

Member
Joined
Apr 7, 2008
Messages
2,508
Location
DC
Name
Bill Martins
What is your preferred "tool" and "chems" for very soiled greasy restys?

Tool - was thinking the RX20 should do the work?

Chems - Powermax or Powerburst? Others?

Considering the facility will be pre vacced and prescrubbed with Cimex.

Possibly encapped after extraction.

Got several monthly accounts that need to find solutions for greasy floors, or else i might just have to drop some of these accounts which i rather not do. We extracted the first month, than encapped with Cimex the following few months, so we are doing 1-2 or 1-3 times for HWE and Encap in between. Depending on the facility, some of them are just trashed. They were trashed to begin with.

Your opinions.
 

Hoody

Supportive Member
Joined
Oct 24, 2007
Messages
6,354
Location
Bowling Green, Ohio
Name
Steven Hoodlebrink
Im going to assume this is CGD carpet.

I have used ultra pak renovate with a bit of sodium percarbonate; scrub with a 175 and a red pad and rinse with HOT water.

Could also try Ultra Pak(not renovate) and boost it with some citrus and oxy, again scrub with a red pad and rinse.

Or the two that you mentioned would work.

Scrub 'er good and give it some dwell time and let the heat melt the grease like butter. Biggest issue is breaking thru that grease, again scrub or you'll be rinsing your butt off.

I think the cimex bristles wouldn't be stiff enough.

Never had much luck encapping unless I was in there once every two weeks or atleast once a month.
 

tmdry

Member
Joined
Apr 7, 2008
Messages
2,508
Location
DC
Name
Bill Martins
Hey Steven - Good to see you.

I use the cimex w/ fiber max pads for pre scrubbing, my 175 is mainly used for hard surfaces.

The TM that i've been using is a prochem legend xl, the issue is that i feel the heat is not hot enough, i could be wrong, but it felt like that on the initial cleaning which was done w/ both the cimex and tm. I also did not have a super strong booster chem, the grease is out of control, and this account is not vacuuming the carpets. Was also using with the prochem titanium wand.

Current chems used now are Punch and Release-it DS. Haven't gotten the Percarbonate yet.

Would there be any difference say w/ the strong chems:

Cimex for prescrubbing w/ reg wand w/ glide on tm

or

Cimex for prescrubbing w/ rx20 on tm.

I don't have a rx20.
 

sweendogg

Member
Joined
Jan 15, 2008
Messages
3,534
Location
Bloomington, IL 61704
Name
David Sweeney
The chems department sounds like where you are hurting. Here is how I would attack this situation using your tools you have available to you. Pick one of these chems as your prespray: Chemiester Grease Eraser, Prochem Powerburst, Chemspec Enzall or if you like Jon Don's products matrix grandslam boosted with Citrusforce asd. there are other HD presprays out there, but my experience is with those stated above. You can use eithe an inline sprayer such a hydroforce to apply or even gravity feed it through your cimex tank. The cimex would be faster as you can prespray and scrub at the same time. However get that prespray as hot as you can. I prefer the inline for this reason. Scrub over all the areas twice. If you gravity feed, do a wet pass followed by a dry pass. Give it some dwell time and crank your pressure up to 600 psi and run your Encap Punch as a rinse detergent. At this point it should be a realtively easy flushing chore. If you still want to make it pop, go over it wither with fiber plus pads and DS or you can get some bonnets either for the cimex or the 175 and post bonnet with an application of Ds.
 

tmdry

Member
Joined
Apr 7, 2008
Messages
2,508
Location
DC
Name
Bill Martins
Thanks for the info.

I would post pad it but i don't have that many pads for such a facility. They're from 3500 sqft to 5400 sqft, and it's 4 of them in a row. I have some pads(bonnets) that are just for this type of work now, but they would get black pretty fast. Fiber pads might be the better way to go after the extraction.

In your opinion would all these steps be necessary every month? Or can it be done a few times in between. We do the facilities once every 4 weeks now.
 

Jeremy

Member
Joined
Oct 9, 2006
Messages
3,720
Location
Indiana
Name
Jeremy
Call Clark @ Orbitech & get some of his towels : (800) 528-1376. They last, hold a ton of crud & they're cheap. You can run them under a a rotary or an OP... If your gonna encap after HWE, you may as well absorb the oils otherwise they just slide down to the backing and the polymer will not coat them for removal when vacuuming. Oil & water don't mix. You can emulsify & absorb oil with encap shampoo but you can't encapsulate it. Ya gotta soak it up!
 

tmdry

Member
Joined
Apr 7, 2008
Messages
2,508
Location
DC
Name
Bill Martins
Thanks guys.

Is the Rx20 even necessary if we're using the cimex to prescrub, and possibly post padding after hwe?
 

Dolly Llama

Number 5
Joined
Oct 7, 2006
Messages
30,643
Location
North East Ohio
Name
Larry Capitoni
tmdry said:
Current chems used now are Punch and Release-it DS. Haven't gotten the Percarbonate yet.

Would there be any difference say w/ the strong chems:

you don't need pixie dust
you need a sledgehammer.
Powerburst..mixed hot at MAX and a half (three scoops pr gal)
Or 2 scoop PB and 3oz Ultrapac

gravity feed 'n scrub w/cimex
Don't be afraid to lay down the juice

flush rinse the snot out of it
I'd say RX it, but it's a soaker, so use your Ti.
If you scrubbed it right, that's all you'll need anyway


..L.T.A.
 

steve frasier

Supportive Member
Joined
Oct 9, 2006
Messages
3,375
Location
portland oregon
Name
steve frasier
shampoo it with hot knife(steve smith vac away) and a bonnet brush

brushandbonnetuj8.jpg


@ 8oz per gallon, maybe a tab bit of spot & boost to it

rinse it with whatever you want, you won't have to post pad it
 

boazcan

Member
Joined
Jan 11, 2007
Messages
1,522
Location
Tampa Bay/Central Florida
Name
Bryan C
Bill, some good advice given here already.

Change your chemicals and scrub with that cimex and you should be good to go. Get the tile brushes for the mex or a scrub brush for the 175. I have scrubbed CGD with the tile brushes on the mex and it works very well.

If you have anything close to Tampa, I will try to stop by and see if I can help you.
 

tmdry

Member
Joined
Apr 7, 2008
Messages
2,508
Location
DC
Name
Bill Martins
Thanks all for the info.

Is there a difference in:

Powerbust @ 3 scoops per gallon vs Powerbust @ 2 scoops w/ 3 oz per gal of Ultrapac?

I've noticed on Grease Erasers MSDS it has a ton of chems on there but they don't disclose any percentages like Prochems to compare it to Powerbust.
 

Hoody

Supportive Member
Joined
Oct 24, 2007
Messages
6,354
Location
Bowling Green, Ohio
Name
Steven Hoodlebrink
Nice to see you too Bill, good luck with those accounts. Sounds like they can be real winners for you once you figure out your plan of attack.
 

Dolly Llama

Number 5
Joined
Oct 7, 2006
Messages
30,643
Location
North East Ohio
Name
Larry Capitoni
tmdry said:
Is there a difference in:

Powerbust @ 3 scoops per gallon vs Powerbust @ 2 scoops w/ 3 oz per gal of Ultrapac?



Either/or will kick azz
if you don't have both on hand, (both are staple items for us) just use the PB.
Make sure you mix well in hot water

someone also mentioned running an emulsifier thru the machine.
I concur.
Prochem Dry Slurry would be a good choice for you

I've never tried Grease Eraser.
But I trust Pennington to know what he's talking about.
So if Grease Eraser is easier to find in your 'hood, go for it

side note on mixing any juice above MAX.
Nearly all will increase in efficacy by going above max recommended dilutions, so don't be afraid to use more.
However, there does come a point where you're just wasting product for the results gained.

What point that is for every juice on the market I have no idea.
MAX and half works well with PB and Ultrapac
BTW, that's Ultrpac #711..the original
Not the LVC stuff, that IMO, doesn't work near as well as UP original


..L.T.A.
 

Jim Martin

Supportive Member
Joined
Oct 7, 2006
Messages
10,878
Location
Arizona
Name
Jim Martin
meAt said:
Jim Martin said:
First Step....

you know, I like First Step, thought it was a great powder.
just didn't like the dudes up there in Cleveland that make it



..L.T.A.


Unless there is a problem with something I don't deal with people who I get things from....and then it really has to piss me off before I do that........I find what I want and put a note on Tia's desk and tell her to order it for me......
 

tmdry

Member
Joined
Apr 7, 2008
Messages
2,508
Location
DC
Name
Bill Martins
Now i'm worried about wickbacks. With all stated above, we are barely making a profit, so i'm hoping I don't need to do that every month, but if that is the case than either we will have to charge more or drop the account. If we have major wicking, i doubt going back the following 1-3 days is even an option due to increase costs.
 

sweendogg

Member
Joined
Jan 15, 2008
Messages
3,534
Location
Bloomington, IL 61704
Name
David Sweeney
Oddly enough, you shouldn't have alot of wickbacks with Restarants. The grease sits on top of the fibers for the most part. Now if you have alot of soda spills, then that can be an issue.

Are you working this job alone?

If you have a helper you can still make very good time and still some decent profit.

Take Meat's advice and lay down your solutin with the cimex to save step of prespay and agitate at the same time. Follow with your encap punch and your wand. That will help elleviate the wickback right there, using an encap product in your rinse. Then if you have time and can still afford to, a quick mist of encap product and post pad your way out. If you are not charging enough then either stick with encap and do a prespray of encap punch followed by a wet pass cimex releasit Ds and a two dry passes or feather passes. Or. Don't post pad and get some airmovers running behind you to get the carpet dry asap.
 

Dolly Llama

Number 5
Joined
Oct 7, 2006
Messages
30,643
Location
North East Ohio
Name
Larry Capitoni
tmdry said:
Now i'm worried about wickbacks. .

just rinse well, Bill.
no chop strokes or sawing back 'n forth on the wand should be needed.
No forward wet pass should be needed either.

the scrub will do all the heavy lifting.
All you're doing with the wand is flush/rinse extracting

steady keyed back strokes,
(make sure you let off the trigger just before you stop the rear travel) forward dry stroke slide up and over

.L.T.A.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top Bottom