Greenglides, greenie, bayco valves, van help - thanks!

[B&BGaryC]

My bayco valve has been fluttering and is worn out and or tweaked by the A-hole machine shop tech who 0it the butt end of a monkey wrench on it for leverage to screw it onto threads. Is there a distributor who will sell me a new one and then give me some credit back for the old one when i send it back. Originally bought from Greenie and the old green glides...
Will post a YouTube link eventually when i figure out the link.

 

[B&BGaryC]

k]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U7IKVO-Bk_Ek]

 

[Bob Foster]

http://canadaind.dixonbayco.com/fgal/ma ... CANINS.pdf

 

[John Olson]

My bayco valve has been fluttering and is worn out and or tweaked by the A-hole machine shop tech who 0it the butt end of a monkey wrench on it for leverage to screw it onto threads. Is there a distributor who will sell me a new one and then give me some credit back for the old one when i send it back. Originally bought from Greenie and the old green glides...
Will post a YouTube link eventually when i figure out the link.

HUH? You want a distributor to credit you for a OLD & BROKEN valve towards a new one? If you find one let me know. I have a ton of broken stuff i want to trade for new stuff. :mrgreen:

 

[B&BGaryC]

Have you seen a bayco valve?
It is solid metal. Anybody who services them should be able to replace a spring and a piece of rubber and sell it as remanufactured.

I was hoping greenie or greenglides would respond or somebody else would step in.

And no, I don't want to rebuild such a vital part. If something went wrong and my rebuild fell apart into the blower I would lose my job.

The valve is less than two years old.

 

[John Olson]

Call Greenie if your looking for someone to give you a credit. Sorry Gary but I wouldn't give someone a credit on a used, broken part they bought from someone else. Thats like someone calling you to come do a re-do for free that someone else got paid to do the first time.

 

[Dolly Llama]

My bayco valve has been fluttering and is worn out and or tweaked by the A-hole machine shop tech who 0it the butt end of a monkey wrench on it for leverage to screw it onto threads. Is there a distributor who will sell me a new one and then give me some credit back for the old one when i send it back. Originally bought from Greenie and the old green glides...
Will post a YouTube link eventually when i figure out the link.

dude, buy a stock relief valve .
The Bayco/Kunkle valve thing was BB DeJour phenomenon when Greenie was a god to some of you moonpies.

It's foolish to use an expensive precision valve (never meant for a TM environment) over a simple, reliable, quality spring valve.
The better ones work just as well as the Baycos
Indeed, the Bayco don't work AS well.
That's why you have to stick on that stupid cap with holes on the end of it..... :roll:

I used one for one day, and knew they weren't sheet.
I sent it back to GreenDawg

Maybe the guys that LOVE them had some kind of jinky chit valve, I donno...


..L.T.A.

 

[Joe Bristor]

Meat's right, again.
You might oughta just try cleaning it real good. Old timers to Kunkles like Tom Rowe said Shawn Forsythe had recommended he get a kunkle like 10 yrs ago, just clean it on the inside and give it some WD-40.

It came to me finally... Tom Rowe.

 

[truckmount girl]

The Bayco is fine in the wet environment, because it's aluminum and stainless. the Kunkle not, because it is cast iron and brass. They still work great, not a BB fad. However, I don't carry them anymore, they went with Jeff.

If you want to return it, I'll giv you full credit for it. But can't get you a new one. If you want to try to get a partial credit and maybe a new one, you will need to call Jeff/Greenie at CMS and talk to him. His number there is 650-345-5050.

if he won't, I can give you credit for yours and you can re-buy from another distributor. They don't re-build or sell parts. They are a sold as factory sealed and not intended to be re-manned, even by distributors.

before deciding it's messed up, I suggest you pull it off and clean it well inside and see if that gets it back to working order.

Take care,
Lisa

 

[Dolly Llama]

The Bayco is fine in the wet environment, because it's aluminum and stainless. the Kunkle not, because it is cast iron and brass. They still work great, not a BB fad. However, I don't carry them anymore, they went with Jeff.

they're over priced, over complicated (compared to a spring valve) and of little real world value to a BD with a decent spring relief valve


..L.T.A.

 

[truckmount girl]

tell me how they are over-complicated? An SOVC, yes, but a Bayco? It's very simple inside, a spring and a butterfly. It's just more precision than a regular relief valve. It's open or closed, so as to keep the lift within a precise range....unlike a regular spring relief valve, which begins to open long before the set point.

take care,
Lisa

 

[joeynbgky]

Thats crazy Lisa you cant make any money like that! He said his mechanic hit it with a wrench, its not your fault! You can't make money like that. My mechanic broke my 3 year old alternator on my truck when he was changing the belt, do you think Autozone would take it back? nope. So i would either have to buy a new one or my mechanic would have to..

Your nice lisa but how old is this part? how much do they cost new?

 

[Dolly Llama]

It's open or closed, so as to keep the lift within a precise range...

it doesn't keep lift in a precise range
as soon as it opens, the lift drops 2-3 or more HG, then closes.
On a carpet that has lots of "grab", or some tools, the valve is constantly cycling open ad closed.
The result is LESS HG than what's intended.
That's the reason you have to add Nick like "frEe flOw" cap on them and "tune" them to your system with a drill


a "good" spring relief will stay constant and consistent






..L.T.A.

 

[truckmount girl]

We never had anyone "tune" them. They came pre-drilled. Likely the one you used was too small for your unit. Greenie had a habit of recommending the smaller one. I liked the larger, but he wanted less weight and easier to install with readily available hole saws.

The larger units were a lot more expensive too.

They really did work well, my 4.7 ran way stronger with it.

Take care,
Lisa

 

[B&BGaryC]

Not my mechanic, a machine shop when.I got my new machine. Would have made them.buy me a new one but it worked fine after they.installed it. Just having problems now a year and a half later and think maybe that's to blame.

 

[Duane Oxley]

There's an inherent problem with a Kunkle (and probably, Bayco, I'm guessing), from a purist standpoint. A vac relief is actually suppoised to protect the blower. With that in mind, it should be as close to the blower as possible- preferably on the blower.

I designed one last week, that I think will be better than a Kunkle in that regard and as accurate as a Kunkle, in terms of operation. There are two reasons for this:

1.) The piston part of the valve cannot "tilt". It can only move straight up and down. So it's either open, or it's not. (Tilting is leaking.) It also will have an oil- impregnated, replaceable bronze bushing, to ensure smooth operation.

2.) It's designed to be mounted on the blower. So it's as close to the blower as you can get.

The funny thing is that a couple of days later, I found an old ProChem relief valve in a junk pile in my shop and it's almost identical to it. So I guess my idea isn't that original after all. Still, it's a good one and will be in production soon. (The first prototype will be at our place next week.)

There's a bit more to the story of that relief valve. I'll be announcing that part of the story when we have the next Gathering in late August or early September.

At any rate, I have no idea as to what the price will be. It's a project in the works for now. The first one will be made of hard- anodized aluminum.

 

[truckmount girl]

The blower is the part of the system least in need of protection from excessive lift, it's the waste tank, hoses, etc. that the relief valve protects.

That being said, the closer the relief is to the blower, the better and more accurately it will perform.

Take care,
Lisa

 

[Duane Oxley]

The blower is the part of the system least in need of protection from excessive lift, it's the waste tank, hoses, etc. that the relief valve protects.

True... Except for cases in which either:

1.) The hose to the blower collapses. (I know it's a long shot, but I've seen it a few times.)

or

2.) The blower filter is excessively dirty and clogged as a result. (I know, you guys ALWAYS keep your filters clean. But about half of the ones I see are seriously clogged.)

In either of the above, the force of the vacuum is trapped between the blower and the tank. So, ultimately, on the blower is the best fail safe location.

 

[B&BGaryC]

I got a hold of him, he said he wanted to set me up on warranty return and that he would email me the address to ship it to. It's been sitting on my desk for almost a week and he hasn't returned my call. I just called and told them I was Mikey P just to see what happened. He didn't come to the phone either.

 

[rhino1]

I know some purist is going to scream bloody murder, but I haven't had a relief valve on my machine for more than 3 years and have not had any issues.... I do have a glide and 2 small relief holes in strategic places, no problems.

The old units I ran had a spring/washer setup and they worked fine too.

So.... what's the big deal???