Mikey P
Administrator
Do you claw every known soda or coffee spill?
What is your technique?
How about on glue downs?
What is your technique?
How about on glue downs?
How many of you use a Water Claw to deal with wicking?
- Thread starter Mikey P
- Start date
Blue Monarch
Supportive Member
Heck no. I rinse and vac the hell out of it and hope for the best. I let them know that wicking is a possibility. I try to do a follow up call to see if there are any issues.
I can only think of a hand-full of wickers.
I claw the pissy ones though....sometimes.
I can only think of a hand-full of wickers.
I claw the pissy ones though....sometimes.
vincent
Member
Interesting question, and I thought I was stupid for doing it on a reoccurring soda spill.
Mikey P
Administrator
What chem do you pour on a soda spill Todd?
Here is how we do it...very very effective. I take my normal pre-spray and saturate the spot. Really get it wet. Give it some dwell time....maybe five minutes.
Then we come along with the Water Claw and attach a fill hose to the end of the solution line. We put the Water Claw on HALF of the spill or a quarter or whatever depending on how large the spill is.
We then rinse the spot with the fill hose on the half that the Water Claw is not on.
We then switch the Water Claw to the other side and repeat. Then we go over it with the wand. This is faster than you think or it sounds.
At that point we immediately get massive air movement on it with the Airpath or another high velocity air mover and force it dry to see if wicking occurs.
Again, this happens fast. If it does occur...you can then most likely get away with a light pre-spray and rinse.
Sometimes you just rinse it with the wand and that is enough. It is not good enough to lightly pre-spray these areas because no matter what, you are going to get some water down there.
And if the dirt is still there and you don't get it out...it is going to wick. The only thing you can hope is that it dries before the soil becomes visable.
But if you do it our way you will rarely have a wicking problem.
Of course you should charge extra if there are a lot of these.
DevilDog
Then we come along with the Water Claw and attach a fill hose to the end of the solution line. We put the Water Claw on HALF of the spill or a quarter or whatever depending on how large the spill is.
We then rinse the spot with the fill hose on the half that the Water Claw is not on.
We then switch the Water Claw to the other side and repeat. Then we go over it with the wand. This is faster than you think or it sounds.
At that point we immediately get massive air movement on it with the Airpath or another high velocity air mover and force it dry to see if wicking occurs.
Again, this happens fast. If it does occur...you can then most likely get away with a light pre-spray and rinse.
Sometimes you just rinse it with the wand and that is enough. It is not good enough to lightly pre-spray these areas because no matter what, you are going to get some water down there.
And if the dirt is still there and you don't get it out...it is going to wick. The only thing you can hope is that it dries before the soil becomes visable.
But if you do it our way you will rarely have a wicking problem.
Of course you should charge extra if there are a lot of these.
DevilDog
G
Guest
Guest
I hit it heavy with the pre-spray, come back later, about 6 wet passes
and about 10 dry. then quickly put the downdraft fan on it 3500cfm
and so far no problems.
Gluedown about the same.
AL
and about 10 dry. then quickly put the downdraft fan on it 3500cfm
and so far no problems.
Gluedown about the same.
AL
alazo1
Member
I only claw on certain pee if they want to pay. The rx does a good job of preventing wicking of spills on residential pile. Must be the agitation.
Albert
Albert
Jim Martin
Supportive Member
On large soda spills that I think are going to give me problem's I pre-spray the spot and then I take and put a male quick connect in the end of my solution line and crack it open just a little and start wetting around the spot claw as it extracts to flush it out...........works great....I know it is flushed out completely and I have never has one wick on me yet.........
and it work good on CGD as well....................
and it work good on CGD as well....................
Mikey P
Administrator
Will you use the Claw on the second floor or over hardwood floors?
harryhides
Member
Flush as needed, place cotton towels, stand and absorb then spray with an encap and move on.
Depends upon the magnitude of the situation.
I have treated extensive Dog urine areas and have had no
problem with future wicking or in 95 % of the time getting the stains gone.
In fact, I will use a watering can with a mixture of Pro-Choice OSR and
spill a quantity of it over the existing areas and let it dwell while I am setting up the equipment.
I will flush it then extract until I see no moisture coming up into the claw and the water is clear. Then use my gladiator pad to absorb as
much moisture, run a fan depending while I am working on other areas.
If the areas are bad enough I will suggest I pull carpet, pad
and treat that way,
"Only because I don't have the strength to
re-install carpet" I let the customer know up front I would have to
have someone else to that task.
If they agree to that, then I go forward. If not, they
have the option to replace.
Hard wood floors are no different than carpet over plywood flooring
But
If the animal has repeatedly gone to the same places and you pull the
carpet up, chances and most likely, the wood is stained and effected by
the urine to begin with.
It is a case by case on site decision you can only make upon inspection in
my opinion.
I have treated extensive Dog urine areas and have had no
problem with future wicking or in 95 % of the time getting the stains gone.
In fact, I will use a watering can with a mixture of Pro-Choice OSR and
spill a quantity of it over the existing areas and let it dwell while I am setting up the equipment.
I will flush it then extract until I see no moisture coming up into the claw and the water is clear. Then use my gladiator pad to absorb as
much moisture, run a fan depending while I am working on other areas.
If the areas are bad enough I will suggest I pull carpet, pad
and treat that way,
"Only because I don't have the strength to
re-install carpet" I let the customer know up front I would have to
have someone else to that task.
If they agree to that, then I go forward. If not, they
have the option to replace.
Hard wood floors are no different than carpet over plywood flooring
But
If the animal has repeatedly gone to the same places and you pull the
carpet up, chances and most likely, the wood is stained and effected by
the urine to begin with.
It is a case by case on site decision you can only make upon inspection in
my opinion.
Desk Jockey
Member
ARA (Anti Re-Soiling Agent):
Have you ever had a reappearing spot? Now with Pro’s Choice “ARA” those days are gone. Anti Re-Soiling Agent or “ARA” actually alters the capillary action to dry the sticky substances that cause re-soiling into a fine powder that vacuums up easily. Simply spray “ARA” after cleaning and call backs are a thing of the past.
We've had good luck with it on glue downs, I suppose it would work on residential carpet too?
J Scott W
Member
Flush with Water Claw spot tool or your wand. Follow with an encapsulant.
ARA is a good product, but you have to use it straight. Our Encapuguard uses the same chemistry but is made to be diluted at 8 to 1. Even if you decide to go heavy at 4 to 1 dilution, Encapuguard is significantly less expensive to use than ARA.
Scott Warrington
ARA is a good product, but you have to use it straight. Our Encapuguard uses the same chemistry but is made to be diluted at 8 to 1. Even if you decide to go heavy at 4 to 1 dilution, Encapuguard is significantly less expensive to use than ARA.
Scott Warrington
The Great Oz
Member
If enough was spilled to discolor the carpet backing.
Wand clean the area using slow passes. Pre-treat the spill with a tannin stain remover/detergent. Apply the claw and use a gun jet to apply cleaning solution to the carpet around the claw. Stop spraying when no more color is observed through the clear plate. Remove the claw when no more moisture is observed through the clear plate.
No other treatment required, and re-service calls for wicking stains are rare.
Doesn't work as well due to lack of airflow, but spills aren't deep into plush carpet either. Quick drying is preferred, soil hiding is sometimes required.
The Cleaning Artist
Member
- Joined
- Oct 7, 2006
- Messages
- 475
I can't believe what I'm reading.
NO you don't need the claw for everyday drink spills no matter what type of carpet.
Wicking is wetting of the backing and the remaining soil wicks to the surface as the moisture evaporates from the fibers. DON'T WET THE BACKING YA HACK!
NO you don't need the claw for everyday drink spills no matter what type of carpet.
Wicking is wetting of the backing and the remaining soil wicks to the surface as the moisture evaporates from the fibers. DON'T WET THE BACKING YA HACK!
