How to remove glue from concrete? Urgent!

[ruff]

I have an old concrete where there was vinyl and old tiles glued to it.

I need to remove the very old glue so that the concrete (open pores) will be able to accept a new concrete over lay.

Is it possible to remove old glue well enough so that thy new concrete will bond with the old one?

If yes, what procedure
And what products.

Thank you.

 

[floorguy]

how much time and money you got???

http://www.franmar.com/

beanie doo

 

[ruff]

Thank you Doug.
It for my home and I need it done ASAP. I can scoot there and do it if I know exactly how to.
Is that the only product? I'll try to get is ASAP.
Anything else that is more readily available?

Do you just shlap it on?

Does it need scrubbing with a floor machine?

Do you wet clean after?

 

[floorguy]

give me a call...8018986210

ill explain it

 

[ACE]

If it's black "glue" RUN!

 

[Ron Werner]

use a CRB with wire brushes !gotcha!

 

[Jeremy N]

This is what I use:

pg 65

http://www.pearlabrasive.com/2011PearlCatalog.pdf

 

[floorguy]

If it's black "glue" RUN!

Thats easy to take off, with the beanie doo

 

[XTREME1]

how ventilated is the place? spritz son gas on and it will break away

 

[Walt]

If it's not sticky and not too big we would grind it off with a Bosch 1773AK concrete grinder. It goes pretty quick.

Which overlay are you doing?

 

[alazo1]

The few that I've done needed grinding and chemical in some spots. Jasco paint remover worked. The grinding will also give the overlay a better surface to adhere to.

Albert

 

[ruff]

If it's not sticky and not too big we would grind it off with a Bosch 1773AK concrete grinder. It goes pretty quick.

Which overlay are you doing?

Walt,
I am doing it for myself, however, I have no grinder or experience working with one.

I am not sure yet which one my contractor has narrowed it down to.

The idea is that it will also accept concrete stain (that is an acid based stain/dye.) I assume that it is a concrete with some polymer and hope that it can take the normal concrete stain.

On normal concrete one needs to wait 28 days (I guess because there is still a chemical reaction and a process that happens in the concrete that ends after 28 days.)

I don't know if that 28 days waiting period is also necessary for the overlay.

Any knowledge regarding those issues will be appreciated.

 

["The" Al Bradham]

Old glue, old tile, what about asbestos. Black glue can have asbestos in it. Nine inch tile IS asbestos. You better be checking on that first.

 

[alazo1]

You can rent the grinding disk that Jeremy refers to at Home Depot. It attaches to your rotary. If that's not available they'll have a 10" grinder either gas powered or electric. You need a vacuum too. You can either do it wet or dry. The machine will run smoother wet and it will cut better. Wear a respirator if going dry.

For the edges and places the grinder can't get to you can try the beenie doo or jasco. Talk to the rental place as to how to use the grinder, it's not hard.

BTW, someone mentioned wire brushes for the rotary, that would probably work too if you have them.

If you're on a budget you can throw some sand on the floor and go over it with a black pad. Never tried it but may work Sanding screens would probably work too.

Albert

 

[Walt]

If it's not sticky and not too big we would grind it off with a Bosch 1773AK concrete grinder. It goes pretty quick.

Which overlay are you doing?

Walt,
I am doing it for myself, however, I have no grinder or experience working with one.

I am not sure yet which one my contractor has narrowed it down to.

The idea is that it will also accept concrete stain (that is an acid based stain/dye.) I assume that it is a concrete with some polymer and hope that it can take the normal concrete stain.

On normal concrete one needs to wait 28 days (I guess because there is still a chemical reaction and a process that happens in the concrete that ends after 28 days.)

I don't know if that 28 days waiting period is also necessary for the overlay.

Any knowledge regarding those issues will be appreciated.

The grinder is not that expensive.. I once owned four. Essentially it's a bosh grinder with a special cover for dust collection and special diamond grinding blades. The grinding should go fast if you are just trying to knock it down. HomeDepot rents a larger one than I owned in their rental shop.

Get a good vacuum and filter. Mask off the area you are working in. Even with a vacuum the dust can be pretty intense.

Most polymer overlays that I worked with were the self leveling kind and could be stained after a day or two. Your contractor really should know this. Self leveling overlays are expensive and tricky to work with, so hopefully he has some experience working with it. The reason we didn't do a ton of overlays was because the polymer material was very expensive and it was a bad idea to skimp on it. We found that you could rarely do the minimum thickness. Also, it dries really fast on a hot day so you really need to stay organized and ready to move.

Before you go down the Jasco adhesive and skin remover road you should find out if you actually need to remove the glue. If it's sound, I'm not sure you need to remove it. Depending on the brand of polymer, I think you just have to fill the cracks and prime the floor and knock off the high spots. Try a 4 inch window scraper (the larger floor scrappers are not sharp enough and tend to skip).

We also used De-limonene mixed 1 to 4. Mopped on. Dwell. Floor machine with black pad. Rinse with tile tool. This worked very well and fast on some types of glue.

If you have to chemically remove most of it try a couple of different solvents first. Lacquer thinner can work pretty well and is cheap. MEK is better but is super nasty and you can only buy in in quarts. Do not use your floor machine with any of these chemicals.

Do not use Jasco - it evaporates to fast and smears around.

PM me if you have any questions. It's been about 7 years since I've done any of that. But I used to do it full time.

 

[Hoody]

Ofer,

Concrete is always wet, if it were completely dry it would become brittle and break. To test how much moisture is in concrete you perform a calcium chloride test. The releasing and absorption of moisture is the reaction that is occurring. To speed up the process you can tent the concrete with plastic, and use direct heat(via E-TES, or similar), just as we do when there is a concrete subfloor that has been affected by flooding. It can be quite a process, because after drying, the area must be as close to the normal conditions/environment it will be in to ensure you get accurate testing results.

The use of direct heat lowers the amount of waiting time needed. Applying an overlay while the concrete is still in its aggressive reaction stage could cause it not to bond properly.

You could also use the heat from a dehu's output for this process as well, if you don't have any direct heat sources like an E-TES.

You should perform a test first after cleaning, and then a post test. The concrete contractor should be able to provide this for you. It wouldn't hurt to discuss with them the option of using direct heat to speed up the process for you.

 

[ruff]

Thanks everybody for your prompt responses, willingness to help and offers of advise.
That's what makes Mikey's board great.
And I really appreciate it.

As it stands, since I am doing 3 moving drives from TX to CA + run my business here, I'll have no time to do it. So we are going to take the easy rout and put a laminate. We love stained concrete, however, we are going to live there only for about a year and than it will become a rental. So a laminate will do.

Thank you again.
You guys rock.

 

[Gary T]

Re: Re: How to remove glue from concrete? Urgent!

If it's not sticky and not too big we would grind it off with a Bosch 1773AK concrete grinder. It goes pretty quick.

Which overlay are you doing?

Walt,
I am doing it for myself, however, I have no grinder or experience working with one.

I am not sure yet which one my contractor has narrowed it down to.

The idea is that it will also accept concrete stain (that is an acid based stain/dye.) I assume that it is a concrete with some polymer and hope that it can take the normal concrete stain.

On normal concrete one needs to wait 28 days (I guess because there is still a chemical reaction and a process that happens in the concrete that ends after 28 days.)

I don't know if that 28 days waiting period is also necessary for the overlay.

Any knowledge regarding those issues will be appreciated.

Only on newly poured concrete do you have to wait 28 days.
The curing process of concrete is called dehydration. It is a chemical reaction where the water is combined with the cement in concrete. Fresh concrete does not "dry". This process occurs from the outside in. The thicker the slab, the longer it takes. The deeper parts of the Hoover Dam are still curing to this day. After 28 days there is sufficient cure in the outer edges to safely introduce stains, etc without impeding the dehydration process. Adding an acid sooner can impede that process and the top part of the slab, the "cream" will become brittle and spall, it will come off in thin layers.
Placing plastic or burlap on fresh concrete simply keeps water from evaporating. If too much water evaporated, your left with chalky, dusty, "loose" cement on top. Plastic is placed under a slab on grade to prevent the ground from soaking up the water in the mix and weakening the slab also.
On existing concrete with excessive moisture, you can test and dry as explained by Hoody.
Sent from my ThunderBolt using Tapatalk