I have a problem with my no-drips on my wand

[BIG WOOD]

These are the kind that go into the V-jets on my mach15. I changed the jets out to up the flow and I put the no-drips in the new jets. Now it makes a noise from the jets when I pull the trigger. Is it showing some sort of resistance? I took them out for the time being, but I want them back in. What can I do to prevent the sound it makes? Is there a certain way to install the nodrips inside the Vjets?

 

[BIG WOOD]

It has jet screens attached to the jet that screws over the spring and ball. I'm wondering what I did to cause the sound that it makes. Am I losing pressure, or am I causing unequal pressure spread throughout the five jets?

 

[Lee Stockwell]

Spraying Systems uses the ball and spring as a check valve to close under 5 psi. It will add turbulence and resistance even when open.

 

[Mikey P]

I dont like the internal valves.

I prefer Westpak externals...less pattern change, less noise and longer life

 

[BIG WOOD]

Spraying Systems uses the ball and spring as a check valve to close under 5 psi. It will add turbulence and resistance even when open.

But the thing that confuses me most, is it didn't make this noise on the original jets that came with the wand.

 

[BIG WOOD]

Since all you forum slugs couldn't answer my dilemma, I had to figure it out myself. I needed to spray the ball/spring with a little wd40 before I screw the screen filter over it to let the bb get set on the spring correctly. Now it doesn't make any weird sounds.

 

[Lee Stockwell]

Matt most of us would have been able to fix that in the dark.

Sorry they perplexed you so much.

 

[BIG WOOD]

Matt most of us would have been able to fix that in the dark.

Sorry they perplexed you so much.

They perplexed me indeed. Next time, share some of your wise information instead of playing with the answer in the dark. Or I'll call you Chester next time

 

[Lee Stockwell]

They perplexed me indeed. Next time, share some of your wise information instead of playing with the answer in the dark. Or I'll call you Chester next time

I shared what you needed to know.

I was working all day..."slug" sheesh

 

[Lee Stockwell]

In a system running near steam at upwards of 600 and more with various cleaning agents that ball will be rattled on and off that seat many hundreds of times an hour.

You can be assured no wd40 or other spray will make ANY effect after a few seconds.

In the act of reassembly you accidentally got it right.

Congratulations, that's how you learn.

 

[BIG WOOD]

I shared what you needed to know.

I was working all day..."slug" sheesh

I was working all day too. I was also dripping all over the place on the job. My wand needed a diaper. I kept thinking "why haven't all those Mikey's members given me any answer to my terrible dilemma?!"

I almost cried!!!

 

[BIG WOOD]

But I could see how the lubrication helped set the ball. Think about it: when you tighten that screen filter over the ball and spring, if it's not lubricated, it can twist the spring, causing it to be positioned diagonally, whereas if it's lubricated, the ball should remain centered on the spring while it's being tightened.

A couple years ago I bought one of these no-drip filter kits, and assembled it the same without lubricating it. I was so annoyed by the sound, I threw them in the trash, thinking that they were junk.

I think this is something that should be brought up. Maybe they should leave some simple instructions on how to put them in the jets. It might save a little frustration from a humble member like me.

 

[Cleanworks]

Matt, when you first posted this thread, I had no idea what you were talking about. I have never used a "no drip" and my wands don't drip. If you have all of your fittings tight, your wand shouldn't drip. I turn my ball valve off, squeeze the trigger and dry vac a couple of times and that evacuates all the water in my wand tubing and it it doesn't matter after that. It's kind like at the urinal, you shake it a couple of times and you're done. Unless you like playing with it.

 

[BIG WOOD]

Matt, when you first posted this thread, I had no idea what you were talking about. I have never used a "no drip" and my wands don't drip. If you have all of your fittings tight, your wand shouldn't drip. I turn my ball valve off, squeeze the trigger and dry vac a couple of times and that evacuates all the water in my wand tubing and it it doesn't matter after that. It's kind like at the urinal, you shake it a couple of times and you're done. Unless you like playing with it.

Haha that's good. Ive had dripping problems on my quad, mach 15 and12. So i must've been doind something wrong

 

[ruff]

I dont like the internal valves.

I prefer Westpak externals...less pattern change, less noise and longer life

I didn't like the internal (extended ones) as they got the jets too close to the carpet in my opinion.
What are the external ones?
Link please.

 

[TConway]

Matt,
Sometimes this is a sign that you trigger valve is due for a rebuild kit also, If the trigger is getting worn it can cause even the mini check valves to drip sometimes.

 

[BIG WOOD]

Matt,
Sometimes this is a sign that you trigger valve is due for a rebuild kit also, If the trigger is getting worn it can cause even the mini check valves to drip sometimes.

That reminds me, I need to order a rebuild kit for my v800. Thanks

 

[Larry Cobb]

Check the jet pattern with and without the check valves.

All the ones I've checked distort the jet pattern . . .

So we prefer NOT to use them.

 

[ruff]

I did not like the check valves, at time they distorted the pattern (usually not, so I did not find that to be a huge issue) but they caused the jets (in my Ti wand) to be too close to the carpet. Which at times will distort the fabric. And the dripping is an annoying little issue. Any new design and solution will be appreciated.

It will be nice if manufacturers will design the wand with the use of the extenders in mind, as well as taking the glide into account as well.
I know some of the new ones do, though the dripping issue has not been resolved.

Tom, in my experience, a new valve develops a dripping jet quite quickly, so we're looking for a better solution, that does not require constant fiddling with the valve and or jets. Most of us BDCC don't like fiddling with equipment while at work and for that matter, after work either.

 

[Cleanworks]

It's not that I haven't had problems with drippy wands, I have. For the last few years though, it seems to be a thing of the past. I use only strainers in my tee-jets, not check valves and when I am done on a job, I turn off my ball valve on the wand and squeeze the trigger while doing my last dry passes which seems to jar Loose any water left in the line. It is like a straw, if you suck water into it and put your finger over one end, the water will stay in the straw. When you take your finger, the water drips out

 

[Nate The Great]

Isn't it just nature to develop a drip in your older years?!?


Man I hate when my PCTI and RV360i drip also... I've read before that the inner springs cause problem in the jets... I just deal with the drips and sometimes do what @Cleanworks recommends when I'm finishing up.......but I take off the solution line and have my helper roll it back up...

 

[GeneMiller]

The valve Eric put in the zipper lasted a lot of hours before I had to rebuild it because it starting dripping. My wands always dripped even with the ceramic check valves in them. I just set it on the drop cloth to move to the next room.

 

[ruff]

The valve Eric put in the zipper lasted a lot of hours before I had to rebuild it because it starting dripping. My wands always dripped even with the ceramic check valves in them. I just set it on the drop cloth to move to the next room.

That's it. That remark just made my day.
If that's good enough for a perfectionist like Gene, that's good enough for good old me.

No more feeling guilty about it.
Thank you Gene!

Now I only have to feel guilty that I can't remove every single freaking stain from my client's carpet.
Well....................nobody is perfect