Ink and wool

[Goomer]

I've got my free 10 day Service Magic lead preview going right now. Today I get a preview lead regarding several ink spots on wool Berber. I know it's not a real job, but it got me thinking. How would you guys approach this?

 

[daniel@procarpet]

Get some spot n boost or similar. Apply the ink remover and immediately use you vacuum hose to vacuum the ink off the carpet. Do this a few times. Then use a q tip to get the remainder out. You can forget pouring the solvent on the stain and stepping on the spot with a towell. I tried that and the ink spread really bad. I like never got that stain out of the carpet.

 

[roro]

Ball point ink should come out with a good solvent - VDS first then a NVDS.
If it is "ink" ink you may need to follow up with a tannin followed by a protein spotter.

roro

 

[Hoody]

Get some spot n boost or similar. Apply the ink remover and immediately use you vacuum hose to vacuum the ink off the carpet. Do this a few times. Then use a q tip to get the remainder out. You can forget pouring the solvent on the stain and stepping on the spot with a towell. I tried that and the ink spread really bad. I like never got that stain out of the carpet.

Next time take a two part stain remover, and make a circle around the ink spot. Putting it in a small bottle with a nozzle. Apply the product generously, that will make sure it doesn't spread and it stays contained.

 

[Nate The Great]

Get some spot n boost or similar. Apply the ink remover and immediately use you vacuum hose to vacuum the ink off the carpet. Do this a few times. Then use a q tip to get the remainder out. You can forget pouring the solvent on the stain and stepping on the spot with a towell. I tried that and the ink spread really bad. I like never got that stain out of the carpet.

Next time take a two part stain remover, and make a circle around the ink spot. Putting it in a small bottle with a nozzle. Apply the product generously, that will make sure it doesn't spread and it stays contained.

I read that in cleanfax too... But I thought I read, you need to separate the h202 and ammonia? Now I'm gonna double check.

 

[J Scott W]

A 1 part oxidizer like StainZone will work just as wella s a two part product to stop ink from spreading. Nothing to separate. In fact, you could use most grocery store ammonia to build the wall around the stain.

 

[Roger Koh]

I've got my free 10 day Service Magic lead preview going right now. Today I get a preview lead regarding several ink spots on wool Berber. I know it's not a real job, but it got me thinking. How would you guys approach this?

This is a new approach.

Dwell-time is important for the Prep to do its work by "Penetrating, Lubricating & Suspending" the stain to be extracted.

Roger Koh
Leather Doctor®

 

[ruff]

A 1 part oxidizer like StainZone will work just as wella s a two part product to stop ink from spreading. Nothing to separate. In fact, you could use most grocery store ammonia to build the wall around the stain.

Scott,
If we are trying to prevent the non stained fabric from accepting new dye, would "dye Lock" work to surround the stain, or would it also set the ink?

Also, what would a reducing agent do, as wool supposedly does not like oxidizers?

Isn't a one part oxidizer a stabilized peroxide boosted with ammonia?

 

[J Scott W]

Scott,
If we are trying to prevent the non stained fabric from accepting new dye, would "dye Lock" work to surround the stain, or would it also set the ink?
Dye Loc does help keep surrounding material from accepting dye. Most inks however, are colored with pigments (solids rather than liquids) and Dye Loc does not work as well to repel the color of pigments.

In addition, the ammonia is less expensive than Dye Loc, so I don't see a good reason to use Dye Loc for this purpose.

Also, what would a reducing agent do, as wool supposedly does not like oxidizers?
Reducers will work on some ink stains. Oxidizers work on a greater variety of ink types. No harm in trying the reducer first when working on wool. Use a pipette or medicine dropper to apply it on a few yarns to see what results you get.

Yes, oxidizers can weaken wool fibers and tend to cause a yellowing that is easily seen on off-white or cream colored wool fibers.

When using oxidizers on wool, watch carefully what is happening. Rinse when you get the results you want. Don't over-use. It really becomes a balance between the appearance damage done by the ink and the damage that coudl be done by an oxidizer.

Stain Magic for wool is an oxidizer that will be a bit less aggressive, work more slowly but be safer for the wool.

Isn't a one part oxidizer a stabilized peroxide boosted with ammonia?
Most one part oxidizers do contain peroxide and stabilizers. They will also contain a blend of surfactants to control how they penetrate and spread.

Ammonia may be an ingredient. There are other ammine materials as well as non-amine boosters that may be used. Ingreints may also be included to provide a suitable pH for the reaction desired without harming the fabric.

Scott W

 

[Willy P]

Try a gel hand sanitizer - the alcohol loosens the ink, and works well for a poultice.

AND IT REALLY WORKS

 

[Numero Uno]

AS Will said above for many years ,I used purell or any gel sanitizer...

Coupled with polymer vomit removing powder it makes the biggest spots vanish.


The polymer adsorbent crystals sit on the ink you simply slowly apply purrell they swell with ink and u vacuum up,leavingthe last bit for simple purell and extraction.

Good luck used just last month on my wool army outdoor shirt ,that a bic broke on,simple easy effective...

Try it for yourself apply any of the inks in above picture to your hand let sit for a few hours apply purell say sayonara...

For cloth a dab of dish detergent to apply principals suggested by Roger,lift /lubricate/suspend /remove /etc,etc


Good luck...