Just installed new auto pump out - need help diagnosing the float switches.

[Blue Monarch]

Had Hydramaster APO prior and it crapped out on me. Went with a shurflo this time and got it connected to the old fittings.

Btw, it has been a couple years since the old one crapped out.

There are two float switches in the tank to make sure the pump turns on and off at the appropriate time. Well, the thing runs no matter what. Keeps pumping until the tank is empty. I'm completely ignorant on how these switches work and could use some help troubleshooting.

The only thing I've done so far is take the little "barrels" off and clean them along with the posts they ride on.

 

[Jim Martin]

Had Hydramaster APO prior and it crapped out on me. Went with a shurflo this time and got it connected to the old fittings.

Btw, it has been a couple years since the old one crapped out.

There are two float switches in the tank to make sure the pump turns on and off at the appropriate time. Well, the thing runs no matter what. Keeps pumping until the tank is empty. I'm completely ignorant on how these switches work and could use some help troubleshooting.

The only thing I've done so far is take the little "barrels" off and clean them along with the posts they ride on.

top float switch is the tank over flow shut off...if you are hooked to this it will run all the time due to the level will never get high enough to shut it down/off

lower float switch is the on off for the APO.............

 

[Larry Cobb]

Dirk;

The large ShurFlo agri pump you have can run continuously, since it is a large diaphragm pump.

Or, you hook it up to the float switches in your recovery tank.

The bottom switch can turn it on when the water is above that level.

You will need the Hydramaster circuit diagram for the wiring.

Larry

 

[curt johnson]

Larry, with the apo Dirk got is there any concern about it working when TM is going at full power? I know the Sureflo APO I had with that Dynachem wasn't powerful enough to pump out when I had the TM cranked up....I think maybe you said that was a smaller pumpout but I don't remember

 

[Larry Cobb]

Curt;

The small ShurFlo pumps are not strong enough for a TM pump out.

This one has a massive 2" MPT inlet:

http://www2.cobbcarpet.com/zen/inde...d=4250&zenid=71d031a1b1b7f2275ba5bd2f1d6bc1c0

Larry

 

[Blue Monarch]

Jim, there are actually, three floats in mine. The one up top is the overflow shut off.

When I had the APO installed years ago, interlink put two more in. When the level hit the top one of those two, the pump came on. When level got below the bottom one, the pump shut off.

They worked fine when my last apo pooped out. I hooked up to same wires and now it just wants to run and run.

As far as the wiring goes, I don't have a diagram.

Larry, what I'm worried about is running the pump dry. Big tile job tomorrow and I will have many times where I'm not running the Turbo and feeding water to the waste tank. Major PITA to keep running outside to flip the switch on and off. Just trying to get it automated like it was before. I have to think this is an easy fix that I'm missing.

 

[rwcarpet]

Had Hydramaster APO prior and it crapped out on me. Went with a shurflo this time and got it connected to the old fittings.

Btw, it has been a couple years since the old one crapped out.

There are two float switches in the tank to make sure the pump turns on and off at the appropriate time. Well, the thing runs no matter what. Keeps pumping until the tank is empty. I'm completely ignorant on how these switches work and could use some help troubleshooting.

The only thing I've done so far is take the little "barrels" off and clean them along with the posts they ride on.

What type APO did you have on the HM? Was it the Jabsco belt drive? I had seen one on a 2003 HM 450. What was the original problem with the pump?

 

[clean image]

I have diagram here somewhere
the upper and lower swicth control a relay that controls power to pump out
normally you cannot run more than 1 amp thru those micro switches, just used to control the big switch
you don't necessary want to run it all the time for 2 reason, amps it draws will drain your battery and 2) to keep your prime

 

[Jim Martin]

this is the best way to set up an A.P.O..

very bottom hole is plumed to the A.P.O...

the next hole up should be a on/off float switch....

and then the float switch at the top is the over flow shut off float............

like in the picture...you want a gap between the bottom hole where you plumed the A.P.O and the start/stop float switch......this gives a water barrier so the A.P.O does not have to work against the blower.....

 

[Blue Monarch]

APO was an electric motor...too many waterbox overflows was the death of it. Corroded all to hell.

Jim, that's kinda how mine is set up. Just one more float switch than yours it looks like.

Sounds like the relay might be bad....or possibly the diode. Serious PITA to reach in my van. Always somethin......maybe it's time to get a Judson for that new TM smell!

 

[rwcarpet]

Wonder what's being used on the new Fox TM? They have a very small vac tank, and depend on the APO to handle all the waste consistantly.

 

[Scott Rogers]

Wonder what's being used on the new Fox TM? They have a very small vac tank, and depend on the APO to handle all the waste consistantly.

I bet its one very similar to this one

Uploaded with ImageShack.com


http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/DAYTON-Pedestal-Pump-5PXX7?Pid=search

 

[jwhatley2]

I bet its one very similar to this one

Uploaded with ImageShack.com


http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/DAYTON-Pedestal-Pump-5PXX7?Pid=search

I have that one. It can run all Day dry and 3/8s debris can go right throw it. My tank was not venting and it pump enough water pressure to bust two welds.

What a mess!

This one DOES NOT self prime well. It is prime by gravity or external pressure to the inlet.

Mine drives off a pulley and feed into a hose and fills the waste tank.
debre

 

[Larry Cobb]

Larry, what I'm worried about is running the pump dry. Big tile job tomorrow and I will have many times where I'm not running the Turbo and feeding water to the waste tank. Major PITA to keep running outside to flip the switch on and off. Just trying to get it automated like it was before. I have to think this is an easy fix that I'm missing.

Since it is a diaphragm pump, it can run dry.

Just turn it on tomorrow, and do your tile job.

Later, you can hook it up to the bottom float switch and relay.

The relay should turn it on when the water gets up to the first float switch.

Larry

 

[clean image]

Hey Joseph

Are you saying the vacuum it created on inlet side damaged your waste rank?
Wouldn't vac relief prevent that ?

So it was fine with pumping out under full load as long as it was "wet" before turning in ?

Thanks

 

[bob vawter]

most likely Johson float controls...take a continuity tester a move the float up and down to see if it works

 

[Shane T]

If the float works after testing as Bob suggests make sure the float has not taken on water. I had one leak once, it wouldn't float right anymore cuz it was to heavy.

 

[bob vawter]

ya...come to think of it...that happened to me once as well.............

 

[pixeltim]

Has anyone here built an AOP instead of buying the uber expensive ones?