Loss of Heat Prochem APEX

EDS · Jan 11, 2015

Hello,

I have a problem with my Prochem apex truckmount. I have a loss of heat. The strange thing is is the truck mount heats up to 230 degrees but once I turn on or increase the PSI, I lose all heat.

The Prochem from 2004 and is not the GTX. I have thirty nine hundred hours on it. I have checked the filters checked the water box to ensure no blockage on the intake filters and the temperature relief valve doesn't seem to be stuck open.

The 2 blue hoses thin ones run to the waste tank. The one closest to the driver side runs to the water box which I assume is to the temperature relief valve. This hose or the hose fitting attached to the waste tank does not get hot. Conversely the other fitting which runs to the pump is scorching hot. Anybody have any ideas of what it could be any help would be greatly appreciated thank you.

kindest regards,

Ed

dgardner · Jan 11, 2015

The Prochem manual for the Apex only shows two lines running to the waste tank, one is indeed the thermal relief, the other one is dump from the chemical simulation valve. Unsure of what the other line you mention is (from the pump to the waste tank). Where does it connect at the pump?

Have you checked:

Engine coolant level
Engine thermostat
Descale solution system
Check/clean air-side of exhaust HX's and preheat HX
3-way temp control valve is in the right position (I know - obvious)

steamron · Jan 11, 2015

lift the lids off your waste tank and make sure the gaskets are intact, I had a bad one and did everything else before I checked it. Once I replaced it with a new one the heat shot right up there.

GeneMiller · Jan 11, 2015

I don't know your diverted but on mine it will hit 230 even when off.. It won't hold it though. Maybe your diverter is really off when you think it's on. Mine had turned so many times that the shaft wore out. I had to jam a small sliver of stainless from my feeler guage to fix it.

Gene

EDS · Jan 11, 2015

Thanks guys. Will check out the thinks mentioned by all...

dgardner... you are right with the two lines. The dump from the chemical simulation valve is very hot where as the thermal relief valve is cold. I am just wondering why every think is fine until Increase the psi...at zero (or near zero) it will heat up...but once I increase psi...(not using any water just setting the dial) the temp drops...

Willy P · Jan 11, 2015

Hi Ed - try Chris at Planet Clean in Delta.He knows his shit. Not working in Mordor this winter?

daniel@procarpet · Jan 11, 2015

It's the winter and you are running a heat exchange unit. I run an Everest and my heat with a 6 flow wand commercial cleaning is around 200 atm. It is what it is. Mine will heat up to 230 also. I changed the belts on my machine and that helped the vacuum suction and the heat a lot. Also if your heat exchangers are dirty or haven't been cleaned in a long time they should be pulled out and cleaned. That will help a lot.

EDS · Jan 11, 2015

Been fairly consistent...now that I'm ranking number 1 for my city I don't travel to Vancouver much...min service charge is $250

TY

Willy P · Jan 11, 2015

Don't really get much of a winter Daniel - Ed is in my area and it's mid 40's daytime, and upper 30's at night.

Willy P · Jan 11, 2015

EDS said:
Been fairly consistent...now that I'm ranking number 1 for my city I don't travel to Vancouver much...min service charge is $250

TY

I have no work to sub to you :biggrin:

GeneMiller · Jan 11, 2015

Ok so only turning the dial causes the temp drop. when you turn it does it Cause the chemical simulator line to get hot right away. Is the temp actually dropping or just the gauge?

Gene

EDS · Jan 11, 2015

I believe it is just the temp gauge since the chemical simulator line is always piping hot. When I have the psi set at 500 psi, then crack the simulator valve the psi drops slightly as it would if I was using the wand and pulling the trigger.

dgardner · Jan 11, 2015

Ed, opening the chem simulator flows water into the waste tank, simulating wand flow so you can set your chem feed. It should normally be closed. The only reason I can think of that line would get hot is if the valve were open or leaking by. Make sure you have NO flow coming out that line (inside the waste tank).

EDS · Jan 11, 2015

Willy P said:
I have no work to sub to you

Website is actually ranked well now and in third year of buisness so no need to do sub work...but thanks for asking

EDS · Jan 11, 2015

dgardner said:
Ed, opening the chem simulator flows water into the waste tank, simulating wand flow so you can set your chem feed. It should normally be closed. The only reason I can think of that line would get hot is if the valve were open or leaking by. Make sure you have NO flow coming out that line (inside the waste tank).

Any suggestions on how to do that..

dgardner · Jan 11, 2015

Temporarily run with the waste tank lid off and look?

dgardner · Jan 11, 2015

If the simulator line gets hot when you turn up the psi - my thinking is that the simulator valve is open or leaking and dumping hot water to the waste tank. Constantly dumping hot water would certainly hurt your heat.....

dealtimeman · Jan 11, 2015

Not just hurt but completely kill it.

TConway · Jan 12, 2015

I just had to replace my manual heat bypass valve, this is probably the same type of valve. I took it off and I was able to blow through it even when it was closed. Barely but still could, replaced it and my heat is much better now, if the valve is leaking it doesn't take much to hurt the heat. Sound like if the line is hot at all the valve is bad and bypassing water to your waste tank.

EDS · Jan 12, 2015

dgardner said:
Ed, opening the chem simulator flows water into the waste tank, simulating wand flow so you can set your chem feed. It should normally be closed. The only reason I can think of that line would get hot is if the valve were open or leaking by. Make sure you have NO flow coming out that line (inside the waste tank).

That is the problem. I checked and it is gushing....Thanks guys...

Does anyone know if ref number ( 2)part No. 86195050 PRV No: 15-808106
and ref number (3) part No. 86180360 PRV No: 12-800040 are simple to get from a store or are they exclusive prochem parts?

dgardner · Jan 12, 2015

Don't know, but you could temporarily plug the port on the solution manifold that goes to the valve, I believe it's 1/8 npt. A 1/8 pipe plug is available anywhere. It would allow you to use the machine until you got the parts.

Look closely at the valve, it's probably a Parker. If so there will be a part number on the valve you can Google, but I doubt you will find one locally.

EDS · Jan 12, 2015

dgardner said:
Don't know, but you could temporarily plug the port on the solution manifold that goes to the valve, I believe it's 1/8 npt. A 1/8 pipe plug is available anywhere. It would allow you to use the machine until you got the parts.

Look closely at the valve, it's probably a Parker. If so there will be a part number on the valve you can Google, but I doubt you will find one locally.

Thats exactly what Im doing. Took the part out and it is leaky for sure... Once again guys I appreciate this...I really should come here more often...

dealtimeman · Jan 12, 2015

Yes and there has to be something you can help others with that you know and Dan gardner DOESNT!

EDS · Jan 12, 2015

Capped off and heat back to 230...

GeneMiller · Jan 12, 2015

It's nice to see a thread get finished with a completed repair.

Gene

Loss of Heat Prochem APEX

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