Lubing blower

steve_64

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Compressing a gas (like air) causes heat even with the best brand new blower. Friction from lobes is near zero.
Ahhh ok. Well my blower is old and wore out, I'm not sure what's going on then. But there is a noticable difference when I spray lube in it. You can hear the vacuum get stronger.

Got approved for the loan so it really doesn't matter now I suppose. Just gotta decide wether to keep it or sell it.
 

Cleanworks

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Ahhh ok. Well my blower is old and wore out, I'm not sure what's going on then. But there is a noticable difference when I spray lube in it. You can hear the vacuum get stronger.

Got approved for the loan so it really doesn't matter now I suppose. Just gotta decide wether to keep it or sell it.
Going brand new Steve?
 

KevinD

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Ahhh ok. Well my blower is old and wore out, I'm not sure what's going on then. But there is a noticable difference when I spray lube in it. You can hear the vacuum get stronger.

If you notice stronger vacuum after spraying wd your blower tolerances are clearly worn.
The wd may be coating the impellers narrowing those tolerances momentarily
but I wouldn't expect the wd effect to last very long.
 
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steve_64

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If you notice stronger vacuum after spraying wd your blower tolerances are clearly worn.
The wd may be coating the impellers narrowing those tolerances momentarily
but I wouldn't expect the wd effect to last very long.
I hear the RPM increase and it quiets down a little.
 
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Earlier you spoke of various clanking and other noises from the blower.

Because the lobes are designed to NOT touch each other or the casing this should be a RED FLAG. Stop before more damage happens. Something may have knocked it out of time or a bearing is failing. I've seen gears with broken or worn teeth do this as well.
 

steve_64

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It knocks on start up when the filter gets filthy. When I don't oil the blower the way I do it just seems to work way to hard and I don't get the right performance.

Before I got it the blower had been froze up and disengaged using a pipee wrench or something similar I believe.

I've tried running water through it too but this seems to be working for me. It actually runs a lot smoother now than when I first got it.
 

thefalcon38

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from what I've read and hear from various reps from all the big TM company's (Hydromaster, Cleanco, Butler, Prochem, ect) WD-40 Changed they're receipt about 2 to 3 years back. the new formulation REACTS with the blower oil in the blowers and builds up gunk and can even Jelly up your oil if you use excessive amounts. WD-40 is NOT recommended with any of the brands. One rep told me that if it was determined that WD-40 was used instead of the recommended stuff (And they ALL know what to look for when it comes to determining if it was used )that the warrantee on the blower would be Null and void. Id say use at own risk. But For the cost of a replacement blower, I wouldn't use it for a few extra bucks for the other stuff.
 
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Much misinformation comes from sales reps.

The air cavity around the spinning lobes is by design a basically DRY environment with NO OIL. It works great that way. The lobes DO NOT need oil or "lubrication".

The oil and grease in the blowers bearings and gear case are a separate sealed environment, unaffected by what is sprayed or ingested into the blower.
 

bob vawter

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from what I've read and hear from various reps from all the big TM company's (Hydromaster, Cleanco, Butler, Prochem, ect) WD-40 Changed they're receipt about 2 to 3 years back. the new formulation REACTS with the blower oil in the blowers and builds up gunk and can even Jelly up your oil if you use excessive amounts. WD-40 is NOT recommended with any of the brands. One rep told me that if it was determined that WD-40 was used instead of the recommended stuff (And they ALL know what to look for when it comes to determining if it was used )that the warrantee on the blower would be Null and void. Id say use at own risk. But For the cost of a replacement blower, I wouldn't use it for a few extra bucks for the other stuff.
MY god how stupid can people get..

THAT WAS the most stupid post in the history of Mikeys Board!

The Falcon 38 obviously knows squat about how a blower works and his
"Various " Co reps know even less squat. ...
Some people should NOT be carpet cleaners at all....
 
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Cleanworks

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MY god how stupid can people get..

THAT WAS the most stupid post in the history of Mikeys Board!

The Falcon 38 obviously knows squat about how a blower works and his
"Various " Co reps know even less squat. ...
Some people should NOT be carpet cleaners at all....
Some people aren't.
 
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A note about "locked-up" blowers:

Usually this happens when the waste tank overflows carrying lint and trash into the blower and beyond.

Even worse is then shutting it down in that state. The trash turns to cement in the tight tolerances around the lobes

It will need to be rinsed out and run for at least 10 minutes to dry completely.

If allowed to seize up never put a pipe wrench on the shaft to free it.
 

bob vawter

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If allowed to seize up never put a pipe wrench on the shaft to free it.

i did...after ALL else failed.........

i wrapped a rag around the shaft real good...and
put my giant pipe wrench on the rag then put my extension handle
on the wrench....childs play!
 
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That may mess up the shaft or knock it out of time.

Take off the inlet or outlet pipe, depending on accessibility, put an 18" long wooden 2 x 2 in the inlet against the lobe, and smack it HARD with a big hammer until it moves. Don't be a wuss, think of it like CPR on a dying blower.

It works.
 
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bob vawter

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NOPE....last ditch was to loosen all end plate bolts after soaking in hot water then putting the mother of all wrenches on the rag which was wrapped at least four laps around
 

bob vawter

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Here's a secret...it ain't the lobes that seize up....nope....nope.....far to much clearance. ....
It's the end plates on each end....
 

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