Microban Botaniclean Q's

[Mikey P]

New ad in CF says it's a antimicrobial and a cleaner and a deodorizer



Not clear in the add if it's for carpet/upholstery or just ol' hard surface..


http://fmlink.com/article.cgi?type=News ... e&id=41035

 

[ACE]

It's just more Thyme Juice Mikey.

http://prorestoreproducts.com/Content_003.aspx?cid=1340


I did allot of research into green antimicrobials for a janitorial customer. The EPA came down with a ruling saying that antimicrobials (which they lump in with pesticides) cannot carry a “green” label. The thyme based juice is cost prohibitive, plus it is allergen. I ended up with an Accelerated Hydrogen Peroxide product. AHP is a patented blend of surfactants, chelating agents, and low levels of hydrogen peroxide. I found a H2 Orange type product that is a great multipurpose cleaner the employee can’t damage surfaces with like with the High PH ammonia chloride products. It works great for cleaning carpet too and it’s a EPA labeled antimicrobial. Some AHP products are geared towards general propose cleaning and others are hospital grade disinfectants. AHP are the best “green” antimicrobials IMO they just haven’t been marketed towards the restoration industry yet.

 

[Padden McFadden]

Active Ingredients: Thymol................0.051%
Inert Ingredients...............................99.949%


Couldn't you just get some thyme oil about ($7.00) and add it too water or pre spray? I've seen recipes for home made disinfectant, that calls for only 10 drops thyme to a cup of water. You can probably make a few gallons with one $7.00 bottle?

 

[ruff]

It's just more Thyme Juice Mikey.

http://prorestoreproducts.com/Content_003.aspx?cid=1340


I did allot of research into green antimicrobials for a janitorial customer. The EPA came down with a ruling saying that antimicrobials (which they lump in with pesticides) cannot carry a “green” label. The thyme based juice is cost prohibitive, plus it is allergen. I ended up with an Accelerated Hydrogen Peroxide product. AHP is a patented blend of surfactants, chelating agents, and low levels of hydrogen peroxide. I found a H2 Orange type product that is a great multipurpose cleaner the employee can’t damage surfaces with like with the High PH ammonia chloride products. It works great for cleaning carpet too and it’s a EPA labeled antimicrobial. Some AHP products are geared towards general propose cleaning and others are hospital grade disinfectants. AHP are the best “green” antimicrobials IMO they just haven’t been marketed towards the restoration industry yet.

Mike,
That is interesting, any links?

 

[ACE]

http://www.virox.com/ahp/default.aspx

 

[Lyman]

Jon don had it in their flyer 2 weeks ago, I got a gallon and I am still not sure how to use it. I made a spray bottle up for my wife to wipe down the hard surfaces at her dance studio. Sounds like it kills everything.

 

[ruff]

http://www.virox.com/ahp/default.aspx

Mike, Thank you.
Where do you buy it?
Have you used it on carpet?
Did it work well?
Do you leave it on or rinse afterward.
Soil attracting residue?

 

[ACE]

There are many AHP products on the market. The stuff I use is Envirox 117 or 118 bought through a local janitorial supply house. http://www.h2orange2.com/ It is a great pre-spray, but too expensive to be used on every job ($2.00 a gallon RTU). I found it effective in wiping down walls/baseboards and pre-treating carpet contaminated with cat urine. The natural PH of the product makes it effective option for wool. It really shines for janitorial work becuse It’s light duty dilution rate only cost .20 a gallon RTU and can be used on everything from windows to floors.

 

[sweendogg]

Mike,

You do realize that pH is not the consideration for wool so much as the buffering agents. The hydrogen peroxide is worse for wool than a non buffered 12.0 pH would be. Just saying.

 

[ruff]

With that in mind, David, what would you suggest for wool.

Also, would the same work for wool exposed to moisture that may contain mold/mildew?

 

[sweendogg]

Depends on how I'm going to clean it Ofer, if I HAVE to have an oxidizer for wool, I'll lean towards the judson O2 system because it uses Sodium Borate as its oxidizing agent, which tends to be gentler on natural fibers than hydrogen peroxide. But in most situations, a good detergent is mostly what is needed, some agitation when necessary and a good flush with usually an all fiber rinse.

 

[ruff]

Thanks David,
I also meant regarding sanitzing/disinfecting wool.

 

[ACE]

David is right. Oxidizers are not the first choice for wool in general. AHP products have low levels of peroxide. The stuff I use has about 0.3% peroxide RTU in the dilution for carpet cleaning / sanitizing and is on the acid side. I think it's fine for wool. It also works great for cleaning ceramic and stone. It’s advertised as safe for anything that can be cleaned with water.

 

[sweendogg]

.3% yeah that is small enough to oxidize quick enough that the oxidizer wouldn't interact alot with the wool fibers..

As to what I like to use to sanitize wool: If its a rug.. long soaks, Microban plus is good, but particularly I like Microban Clean Carpet Santizer.

http://www.jondon.com/catalog/product_i ... 5d7f0c5ba1

 

[Hoody]

So is this product comparable to Benefect ?

 

[ruff]

.3% yeah that is small enough to oxidize quick enough that the oxidizer wouldn't interact alot with the wool fibers..

As to what I like to use to sanitize wool: If its a rug.. long soaks, Microban plus is good, but particularly I like Microban Clean Carpet Santizer.

http://www.jondon.com/catalog/product_i ... 5d7f0c5ba1

David, Thanks.
I know that PH alone is not the sole indication for safety for wool, however, wouldn't a 12.2 PH cause potential problems with dye migration?

Also, I was always under the impression that PH that high is not recommended for natural fibers.
David, Lisa, Randy, other wool gurus?

 

[ruff]

Also, what would you recommend for an oriental rug that was exposed to water damage, and not dried properly for two weeks and started developing mildew?

 

[Hoody]

High pH on wool can cause dye migration but from what I understand it damages the wool at the molecular level by damaging the cuticle of the fiber.

I've used Microban Clean Carpet Sanitizer for mold on water damaged rugs. The mold is hard to remove, but I've found a filtration soiling removal product removes it the easiest. However you have the issue of that being a high pH product. If there is minimal mold contaminant on the rug it would be worth trying to restore. However if there is a lot of mold, you would be better off talking with the homeowner/insurance about replacement, and just give them your profession opinion that it cannot be restored to pre-loss condition. You also have the issue if there is a backing separating, and it needing to be replaced. The time and materials going in replacing the backing plus restoring the rug sometimes is greater than replacement, and there is no question of if the homeowner will accept the rug afterward.