My encap experience today...

[Jamesh921]

...and some questions.

I'm trying to get the hang of encapping so today I encapped the living room in an apartment and then I encapped 3 motel rooms.

Tools - 175 rpm and pump up sprayer
Chemical - Harvard's Bone Dry Encapsulation Chem

After encapping the living room in the apt, I put a fan on it to dry, did several repairs, restretched the bedroom, hall and bath and then started cleaning in the back of the apt. By the time I got to the living room it was definately completely dry.
The area looked "much" improved, but some of the spills could still be seen (lighty, but still visible). I used my TM to vac it and it looked a little better. I thought, "What the heck? Extract it." So, I did -----and it came out MUCH better. Spills dissappeared and carpet was much brighter.
The carpet was a medium brown colored, cut-pile nylon.

The motel rooms were brown with a darker brown, square-patterned cut-pile nylon. They came out fine, but I had to go over the spills ALOT to get them to fade out.

So my questions are;
1) Is it necessary to go over and over spills (probably soda spills) or do you just zip over them like the rest of the carpet and let the encap do its job?

1a) Do you apply more chem on spots or spray everything evenly?

2) Do you apply the encap chem at the same sf rate that you do say, thru your hydroforce? Or, do you apply it lighter than that?

3) I used a bonnet to agitate. Should you flip/rinse/change the bonnet regularly or just keep using the same one for the entire job?

What say you encapping pros?

James

 

[GeneMiller]

I would use a better product if I was going to try it. Just my experience but Harvard's products are not very good.

gene

 

[Dolly Llama]

.
I thought, "What the heck? Extract it." So, I did -----and it came out MUCH better.

well of coarse it did, and it would of looked much MUCH better if you would wanded it while still damp.
Every time too.
The idea with encRap, is to NOT run the wand over it.
Otherwise, you and your custy would know just how much better it could look

The motel rooms were brown with a darker brown, square-patterned cut-pile nylon. They came out fine, but I had to go over the spills ALOT to get them to fade out.

So my questions are;
1) Is it necessary to go over and over spills (probably soda spills) or do you just zip over them like the rest of the carpet and let the encap do its job?

1a) Do you apply more chem on spots or spray everything evenly?

2) Do you apply the encap chem at the same sf rate that you do say, thru your hydroforce? Or, do you apply it lighter than that?

3) I used a bonnet to agitate. Should you flip/rinse/change the bonnet regularly or just keep using the same one for the entire job?

What say you encapping pros?

James

as much as I bust encRap Ricky's balls, he posted before how to handle spills.
It's a long involved process ending with dumping some 50-50 mix pixie dust gunk down I think.
Maybe he'll see this and help you out by posting it again.
I bust Rick's balls often, but he ought to know how help you.
after all, he IS the one that put sCampooing back on the map, and he does have a very good power point presentation to sell your services to com prospects


.L.T.A.

 

[Jamesh921]

I didn't know you knew so much about encapping Larry. You must like it ALOT!! shiteatinggrin

 

[Jamesh921]

Hey Gene,
Yea, but Harvard's was what was available locally so I thought I'd give it a try.

James

 

[Dolly Llama]

I didn't know you knew so much about encapping Larry. You must like it ALOT!! shiteatinggrin

we gave it a fair shake years ago, James.
It has it's place in com and is u$ful there
However, we don't do much com.
and what dirt swirling we do do, is generally always "spray 'N wipe" with pads or bonnets


And Rick Gelinas really does have a good presentation for getting com prospects

..L.T.A.

 

[Danny Strickland]

just to set the record straight, Mark Kling at DSC and Whittaker were the ones who brought the crystalizing shampoo back to the table for the most part.

Ricky basically saw an opportunity to bring it to the cleaners en mass and has called what it does to the soils and oils (it ENCAPSULATES) ENCAPSULATION.

order some juice from several different guys (VacAway, ReleasIt, Whittake crystal dry, DSC Spin Vac, SnakeOil from Judson ) you'll find your favorite and see that chemistry is important, but so is the equipment, type of pad/bonnet or brush.

 

[Lee Stockwell]

Do a search on ICS and you will find Caesar Ricci calling it "encapsulation" at least a year before Rick picked up on it. I believe Ricks tagline in that time period was something like Chemstractor man.

However Rick really ran with it....later.

 

[carpetcleaner]

I get really good results with CTI's Brush & Bonnet and a 175rpm/brush. It isn't really any faster than HWE, there are a lot of times when it comes out better. Lots of spills and heavy matted traffic lanes are times when I'm able to get better results.

 

[rjs]

My son tried encaping today for the first time (with a cimex) his experience was not the best. He had trouble making enough foam and left the carpet wetter than he wanted. The carpet seemed to come clean but just used more water than he should have.
Do you really get 300 feet from one gallon?
Do you wait for foam before moving the cimex machine?
Is there a difference in the product being used or are they all about the same?

Thanks for any help
Rich

 

[Desk Jockey]

How To Stop Recurring Spill Stains:

If you will follow these steps TO THE LETTER, your spots should NOT return. We have cleaned millions upon millions of square feet (miles) of carpet and have treated an unimaginable number of spill stains with this technique --- and it works.

TAKE YOUR TIME. And follow these steps carefully...

1. When approaching a spill stain, isolate the stain and thoroughly scrub the carpet surrounding the stain with the encapsulation detergent, leaving the stain untouched. DON'T SCRUB THE SPOT - LEAVE IT DRY.

2. Next, aggressively scrub dry passes over the spot. Criss-cross the scrubber back and forth over the stain and continue to scrub continuously for a full minute or two.

We don't want to get the area wet with any additional detergent. This way, the spot is being aggressively cleaned with minimal moisture.

This is not a totally dry scrub; moisture is captured from the surrounding area and is drawn across the spot as the scrubber criss-crosses back and forth over the stain. However, the moisture is being kept to an absolute minimum.

By scrubbing for a full minute or two, the spill stain is receiving an extremely thorough scrubbing.

3. Prepare a spray bottle of a good crystallizing encapsulation detergent and mix the spray bottle 50/50 with water and detergent. This is an exceptionally effective spill stain remedy.

After scrubbing the spot thoroughly as described above, spray the spot with a few squirts of the encapsulation stain mixture.

4. The final step is to make one final quick dry pass over the treated spot with the scrubber to work the concentrated encapsulator down into the fiber. Now the spot won't return!


This trick for eliminating recurring spill stains transformed our carpet cleaning business. It enabled us to sell "Spot Free" cleaning to our commercial clients. Our customers LOVE it, since nobody has ever been able to remove them as effectively before. The only time we have a problem is when one of our technicians cuts corners and spends less time than they he should have. If they don't spend at least a full minute or two DRY scrubbing each individual spot first - the process is not gonna work.

These steps WILL work for you, providing that they are followed very carefully. In your case, I'd suggest going back and really take plenty of time on each spot, I'm 100% certain that you can eliminate them, because everybody is successful with this procedure for removing recurring spill stains.

This is a copy of Rick's method for curing the reoccurring pop spill.

I would suggest you use Releasit, Hotknife, Snake Oil, Padcap Pro or other premium encap product, you'll have better results. Hotknife and Snake Oil if spraying and padding, Releasit works better shower fed through the Cimex.

LOL Larry is such an honest guy even when he wants to rag someone he still tells the truth.

A lot can be done with VLM systems, but there is still a place for HWE, tailor your cleaning to the project.

Some jobs we use HWE in heavily soiled areas, OP in the moderate and Cimex in the lighter soiled areas.

Don't get stuck having to live or die with just one process.

 

[Jeremy]

Tools - 175 rpm and pump up sprayer
Chemical - Harvard's Bone Dry Encapsulation Chem

Dude, you're doing it the hard way... LOL

 

[Jamesh921]

Well, then send me a freakin' sample of your juice :idea: if you wanna help.