My Heat booster project

TConway

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Okay I came up with this idea, took it to Tim and we put on together. It is a very simple add on takes about ten minutes to do, what it does is boosts the incoming water to help out hx system.
It needs NO extra fuel, no crazy plumbing to get it to work.
Here is a pic of it on my TM. If you look all I did was take the QD off TM put it on booster then took hose from booster to TM.
IMG_20150121_135926154_HDR_zpsm9986qzu.jpg
The video is me cleaning and showing my ATW temps, this was today and I was out 100' I am going to try my 3/8 hose tomorrow and see if heat is even better as the hose today was skinny so it looses heat faster.
The video is a little long 13 minutes, but I would like some feed back on what you all think of the temps. If you skip the first minute I start to show heat results from there on.
Thanks Tom
 

TConway

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Well my Exhaust temps coming out of HX are around 180-200* the water has never got that hot, I have always been able to touch the booster with my bare hand.
My water box has thermal valve of 180*.
My Blower hx air is around 155*
I know a lot of people say high temps are bad for pumps and I am sure it does make them wear faster, but most hx systems circulate water back to water box to get the water warmer to go through final EHX
My water box is hoovering around 140-150
The water goes to about 110*in the booster the water cools the exhaust down pretty good in the booster not much heat coming out the exhaust of it.
 
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jmo

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If you have a fresh water tank I would move the 180 thermal valve to dump in fresh water tank instead of the waste tank, that will also help with heat.
 
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TConway

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Did you steal that from Crazy Joe? :razz:
Sure why not, I am a liar, con man, anti USA, and uneducated so I musta stole it from poor old JoeJoe.
I find it very interesting how someone that is not in the room, sitting at the table or anywhere around me or in my life could come up with five pages of info about what is going on. HE thinks SO MUCH of himself, or thinks I think of him so much
 

TConway

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If you have a fresh water tank I would move the 180 thermal valve to dump in fresh water tank instead of the waste tank, that will also help with heat.
I did run my bypass to my water box, but I put that back because it was dumping very very hot water into box and that may be TOO much hot water.
I also tried HEAT BYPASS but that just kept on running water through the system, You need water to stay in the EHX to get that last high heat rise. What was happening with by pass is the water would all warm up at the same rate so 180 on temp Gauge it was @180 in water box too.
 

TConway

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Did you steal that from Crazy Joe? :razz:
Hey Marty I got to meet the CTS crew at ICE really nice guys, Do you have the Chief TM? I liked it pretty compact simple design looked good.
 

jmo

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I did run my bypass to my water box, but I put that back because it was dumping very very hot water into box and that may be TOO much hot water.
I also tried HEAT BYPASS but that just kept on running water through the system, You need water to stay in the EHX to get that last high heat rise. What was happening with by pass is the water would all warm up at the same rate so 180 on temp Gauge it was @180 in water box too.
I'm talking about running it to on board water 100gal not the water box.
 

TConway

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@jmo
Yeah Tim and I are working on system to preheat 100 gallon water tanks, it would be thermo controlled so it would only heat to temp set. I think that would be pretty cool yeah.
 
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Bjorn

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nice tube and shell looks like it is before the pump is there any pressure relief I have mine after the pump so only cold water enters the pump
tubeandshell001.jpg
 
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TConway

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nice tube and shell looks like it is before the pump is there any pressure relief I have mine after the pump so only cold water enters the pump
tubeandshell001.jpg
No it is low pressure, house water enters first will not reach boiling point it can't because exhaust temps are to low, just boosts temp of cold incoming water.
 

John Olson

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Ummm...What is your engine temps adding that extra back pressure to it? The engineers at Prochem and Sapphire and Hydramaster(well maybe not hydramaster considering the 427 fiasco ;) )all work within the boundaries of how much can the engine handle and now you have gone and added additional back pressure AFTER. Not saying it can or can't handle it but I wouldn't ever suggest anyone go stick a giant sock in the end of their exhaust. Before you go selling these id make sure the engine manufacturer signs off on it or you could end up with a few lawsuits for replacement engines and lost time and wages... Food for thought
 
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TConway

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You are correct John but no back pressure Tim is pretty good at that. Not ready to sell them yet, we just got started, no way would I take on the liability without making sure first, Guys TM's are not cheap, nor pumps.
Just starting the testing, the flow is not restricted though very free flowing, I can tell you this though....I am in love with the little Legend again, so much so gonna pull her out slap a more productive blower hx in her too, new Powder coat and a 25 hp motor, gear up blower with the little extra HP and call her GOOD.
 
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TConway

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Well just a little update, I have been using the heat booster for 6 months now, no problems what so ever. It has changed my PC Legend so much that I will more than likely just rebuild her. For our work load the legend just fits well, the only thing I have been unhappy with is the heat production, but the HB really has made a huge difference in that area.
I could still drop it if I out paced it, but I have been working with it for a while now and even though I still have to pace myself with it, the cleaning speed on my empties has went up, super happy with it.
I would say on average I stay at 200* working at a pretty good pace, and always 100 or more feet away, my solution line is 100' and add more as I need it.
 
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Shane T

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I would suggest you keep a close eye on the exhaust side of the heat exchanger. It may tend to plug up due to the exhaust gases being cooled so much.
 

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