Odorcide

[Lonny]

I cleaned a big cat urine problem a week ago. I used odorcied at 8 oz per gallon in a 5 gallon bucket, saturated the affected area and extracted after 15 minutes with a water claw. The customer is saying that she can smell cat urine and the odorcide when it got fairly humid this past week. How am I sposed to get rid of this for her short of tearing out the pad and using kill on the sub floor?

 

[bennyandthejets]

Is the cat still in the house? It could be that the cat or an other pet resoiled that spot?

 

[Nate The Great]

^^^^


and don't assume the odor is only in the carpet (base, walls,furniture, etc.)....especially since you described it as "big"

odorcide does tend to linger



sometimes tearing it out is the only effective option..............

Even then, it still doesn't trump some women with phycological smell... Those are the ones who irritate me... They live with 7-10 cats and complain they still can smell it... Tough sh!t most of the time...

 

[Goomer]

First things first,
How did you locate the urine?
Did you use a black light or a moisture meter?
How many "hits"?

 

[ACE]

Uncut Tom? If so, you need to do something about the baseboard and walls. Odorcide is not worth the $80 a Gal IMO. The only thing that I have found to be at all effective on cat pee in carpet is Quat at 3-4+ times recommended dilution. That said, if the carpet is bad cut it out.

 

[Jeff Madsen]

I'd give Pet Zone or Odor Rescue a shot. Other than that, prequalify jobs like this - don't end up owning someone else's problem.

 

[Steve Lawrence]

Cat urine soaked carpet will rarely be solved with cleaning and neutralizing odor. It sinks deep in pad and flooring where you cannot address it well enough. It's really a restoration job requiring pad replacement, carpet cleaning sanitizing, and floor attention and likely sealing. Also, many other areas may be contaminated. Only a thorough inspection is going to reveal the scope of the problem.

 

[Guest]

we have had better success with OSR pro choice, You do have to use black light and moisture meter to locate 100% of the problem. OSR must be used with really hot water over saturate area and pull out with water claw after 30 min. If pet still lives in home never gaurentee 100% odor removal.

 

[tim]

Odorcide smells as bad as urine! We use hydracide, it works as well and smells good plus a little cheaper. Anytime odor is present, you havent removed the source of the odor. I use an oxidizer, quat and an odor pairing agent (hydracide) to have 3 ways of killing odors.

The important things to remember are

1. Use plenty of product
2. when using OSR- make sure the temp is above 180
3. give at least 30 minutes dwell time
4. make sure all contaminated areas are identified and totally saturated
5. Extract thoroughly

We actually mix OSR, Quat, Hyracide and DD12 (to mask while we work) in 5 gallon buckets at one time. Works every time, just used it yesterday on a $1200 pet odor job

 

[sweendogg]

Cat Urine is loaded with alot more fatty lipids than most dog/ human urine issues. This makes it stickier and bigger magnet for bacteria which produces the oh so pleasent smell. The fatty lipids act as a barrier preventing the salts from being extracted completely unless you nuke and remove each layer.

Alot of Cat urine jobs require the use of several types of deoderizers and detergents if you want any chance of removing the odor without removing pad/carpet/sealing subfloor.

Usually we start with a Urine preconditioner, several repeated applications and clawwing ot remove as much of the contamination before we put an odor product down. I then move to OSR style product with a little bit of odorcyde mixed in, or in severe cases we'll use Skunk Out first with 30 minutes dwell time, then OSR 30 minutes dwell. (water claw extraction) We then leave enzymes at the end of the job to finish off the problem. And this takes care of it 90% of the time. The other 10% of the time its either refuse the job or replace pad/seal floor step.

 

[Shawn Forsythe]

David Sweeny alludes to the probable problem Lonny is having.

For any deodorizer to work you need to know/do two things.

1. Remove the source by cleaning, or scrapping what can't be cleaned practically.
2. Any Deodorizer that actually neutralizes has to physically contact any and all odorous residue to function.

On urine, you have to remove the source contaminant with proper preconditioning and extraction, just like David describes.
That which can't be removed has to be either scrapped, or in the case of concrete/wood it has to be sealed after cleaning.
It is impractical to remove source contamination on padding. If padding is contaminated, there is little in the way of options but to replace. Some will indicate that you can supersaturate a pad with something like an ultra concentrated sanitizer, but IMHO, you don't want to leave that much chemical residue behind.

Deodorizer is something you only want to apply to a post-cleaning residue. This means that the deodorizer has much less physical contamination to overcome, as well as everyone's peace of mind that the urine is actually gone, for the most part. There are one-step products that remove odor and staining, such as Pet Zone with Hydrocide, but still a thorough extraction with a good urine-specific preconditioner is the preferred first step.

 

[Goomer]

Usually we start with a Urine preconditioner

Who makes a quality urine preconditioner?
What brands do you like best?
I only found Matrix Urine Pre-Conditioner. Anyone else make one?

 

[Joe Bristor]

I never liked the strong smelling deodorizers/masking agents, or perfumes etc.
Never needed enzymes, oxidizers or or high heat either.
Simple 1-2 punch of strong 5:1 glycolic followed by strong 3:1 plant based cleaner I use on everything from my car to my clothes. Then White Knight for the surface stain. Done.
No residual fragrance or odor.

don't mix glycolic with alcohols or encap polymers or you'll get the glue Ron talked about.

 

[J Scott W]

Usually we start with a Urine preconditioner

Who makes a quality urine preconditioner?
What brands do you like best?
I only found Matrix Urine Pre-Conditioner. Anyone else make one?

Bridgepoint makes TCU Neutralizer (TCU stands for tea, coffe and urine). This neutralizes alkaline salts plus working to remove the lipids or body fats that are excreted with the urine.

Pro's Choice also makes a good urine neutrlaizer.

BTW - If anyone does not have a copy of my manual on successful pet odor decontamination, just send me an email and ask for it. I will be glad to attach a copy to an email and send it out to you.