olefin hallways

steve r

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one of my apartment complexes has some real cheap olefin glued to concrete in the hallways.

i clean it and it looks ok but the spots wick back.
whats the trick to keeping those spots from reappearing?

im using pca 5 to rinse and tls 2000 as a prespray.
do i need an actual olefin prespray?

its the only olefin i really see so im not use to cleaning it.
 

Jeremy

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Snake Oil and an OP machine, Cimex or rotary... And the best part is it'll clean up faster and not wick.
 

steve r

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Jeremy said:
Snake Oil and an OP machine, Cimex or rotary... And the best part is it'll clean up faster and not wick.

i was wondering about the rotary with cotton bonnets and releasit. i may give that a go.

thanks jeremy
 

boazcan

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Jeremy said:
Snake Oil and an OP machine, Cimex or rotary... And the best part is it'll clean up faster and not wick.


Just did 27000 sq ft of that today. With plenty of spills, spots, and water stains. A couple of scoops of sodium percarb and poof. 8)
 

Bucey

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FFA?
SHOULDNT YOU BE ALITTLE CAREFUL WITH THE HEAT ON OLIFIN? WONT HIGH HEAT CAUSE POSSIBLE STREAKING AND DAMAGE?
 

steve r

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this carpet is really cheap stuff. burns all over from people dragging furniture and from birdcrap too.

i did try and encap that once and it didnt budge it. but im at a different site for the same people.
its enclosed and mostly just spills im assuming and oils from certain tenants.

the spots just keep coming back.
 

The Great Oz

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Steve,
I think you might be seeing a couple of things that are pretty common with polypropylene and also with direct-glue installations.

Poly carpet cleans up very easily, so it is fairly common to move too fast, getting just the surface soil. Carpet looks good, move on. The problem is that there is still a lot of grunge down in the carpet to wick back up, so you either have to clean more slowly and thoroughly or use very little moisture to guarantee the carpet will dry fast. Of course, if you surface skim spots will show up again when a tenant tracks in water.

Direct glue installation doesn't allow for any air flow through the carpet backing, so a lot of the deeper soil is more difficult to remove. The above still applies no matter what the face fiber might be.

And last, one of the peculiarities of poly loop commercial carpet is the way it compresses. People use the term 'lays down and stays down' but loop construction just smashes down. If you look at a new piece of loop carpet from the side, you'll see a nice upside-down raindrop shaped tuft, with spaces between rows. Once in use, those raindrops turn into flat-topped upside down triangles that inter-tangle with the next row. This creates a semi-sealed channel between rows that doesn't allow for much evaporation, so the day following cleaning traffic will squish water up from carpet that felt dry and cause resoiling. Use of air movers are required in these cases.
 

steve r

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yeah im sure im not getting it all out even when i do slow down and really try and flush it.
ithink im going to try and bonnet cleanit and see what happens
that or break out the pile lifter and really aggitate it
the halls are really looking bad and i was told they would be willing to pay a little more
if i can get them looking better so im willing to put in extra effort to try and figure this out
 

Jeremy

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I'd reccomend a good pile lifting and vacuuming prior to cleaning with your selected method. Rick G sells a nice one it hink it's called the X Vac... Anyway, getting the deep down embeded soils broken up & hopefully removed will help reduce the instances of wicking...

In scenarios where wicking is a known concern a stronger mix of encap is recomended (even if it's just for the problem spots) if that is the method you plan to employ...
 

steve r

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Lee Stockwell said:
Is the water coming up black?

I remember TLS2000 being pretty good stuff, back when we ran Bane's.


yeah its pretty black. these halls dont get vacd very well. the other ones i spoke of just get blown off not even vacd lol.
yeah i like the tls2000 but it does have to get rinsed real well.

ok i think vacing first sounds like a great idea too.and maybe prescrubbing with the pile lifter. i was doing them cheap but since shes willing to pay a little more that might be worth the effort.
maybeone that wayand one prevac and bonnet and see what the difference would be.

thanks guys you have me thinking again. ive been on automatic for a while since i havent had any real issues till this came up.
time to experiment again it sounds like.
 

Mikey P

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I'll have to disagree with Jeremy here.

Spots can and will wick back on CGD if you work them to hard with your NON EXTRACTION carpet cleaning machine.



pixie dust or not.
 

lance

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It's pad extraction machine not non extraction. That is if the machine is the OP kind of machine. !gotcha!

Get the dry soil out as much as possible. Vac, then pile-lift (or use a crb machine), and then vac again. Do all this before wetting it down with PS or encap. solution.
 

Jeremy

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Mikey P said:
I'll have to disagree with Jeremy here.

Spots can and will wick back on CGD if you work them to hard with your NON EXTRACTION carpet cleaning machine.



pixie dust or not.

Yes it "could" wick if the carpet is overwet even with an encap solution or the spot was very problematic, although it's much less likely and usually less severe than in it would be if it were over wet with a wand...

That said, flushing with high flow and then pad/bonnet cleaning with some "pixie dust" can make some of the most neglected CGD stand tall... Either can get good results alone but the combo is even better. Post Encapping will put a smile on almost any steam job. However you decide to go about it... Get the dry stuff out before you start adding moisture and get it dry as soon as you can after cleaning.
 

steve r

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Ron Werner said:
thats why I like the greenhorn, can really give those a good flush.
Sometimes on these a good encap afterwards is what's needed.


ive got a bane..ill be there forever :lol:
 
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Put some bigger tips in it Steve, we did that often. A good quirk with a Bane is that higher flow doesn't lower heat, it increases it.
 

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