OP Cleaning?

G

Guest

Guest
Ive been doing some reading and i find posts about OP cleaning and some say its the best thing since sliced bread.....How does the whole system for this work??? Im kinda confused about it and would like to know more about it.
 

Jeremy

Member
Joined
Oct 9, 2006
Messages
3,720
Location
Indiana
Name
Jeremy
I wrote this a year or 2 ago... I've updated a few things. Added/deleted some info.... I hope it helps.

Section 1
Pad Cleaning (Pad-Capping) Overview

Well you have probably wondered: “What the heck is pad capping?”. You are about to find out. You'll be pleased to know that it is a generally high production, low overhead, fast drying, “almost difficult to mess up” & profitable way to clean commercial carpet.

If you are familiar with “Scrub & Run Encapsulation” which is technically "The Shampoo Method" of cleaning carpet & “Bonnet Cleaning” or the Absorbent Pad Method imagine that they had an illegitimate love child & this method is the result of that wild weekend in Vegas...

And the good news is some shampoos available today dry to a non sticky "plastic film". Some are brittle to allow for removal of coated soils & polymer with a vacuum (commonly refered to as crystalizers) others are more pliable (commonly refered to as film formers) and offer a level of protection to the fibers as staining material adhere to the polymer film as opposed to the fibers themselves. Some of these wear off more easily under foot traffic than others allowing for removal with a vacuum. Personally I prefer crystalizers as there is less concern of polymer build up in the carpet.

Basically, Pad-Capping is applying an “encapsulating” shampoo to a thoroughly vacuumed carpet which emulsifies the soil through a combination of chemical reaction & agitation. The emulsified soils are then absorbed into the pad, leaving minimal moisture & soils behind. The remaining soils are coated in the cleaning solution which generally will dry to a brittle, non-sticky film. Through the next 1-3 vacuuming cycles of the carpet the small percentage of soils left behind are then removed.

Chemical residues are a problem in most cleaning systems. They are a “fact of life” for most cleaners & common cleaning systems. Through the use of Encapsulating Shampoos, you have turned a problem into a marketable positive. These product generally re-soil slower than most Hot Water Extraction (HWE) Emulsifiers which even when rinsed thoroughly leave a percentage of sticky residues (& dirty water) in the carpet. Whereas a pad-capped carpet will leave a small percentage of soil behind, it is easily removed through routine vacuuming due to the “beneficial residue”. Encapsulating Shampoo residues generally retard the rate of re-soiling verses HWE & traditional non-encapsulating bonnet cleaners.

The moisture left behind from HWE can lead to wicking (returning spots) & browning. Again Pad-Capping leaves less moisture in the carpet to start with & what little is left behind is laden with proven anti-wicking polymers which again makes the encapsulant a “beneficial residue”. Also the superior dry times achieved through this method reduce the chances of browning tremendously.

Why not just bonnet clean with an encapsulating shampoo? Well, the fact of the matter is you can & quite effectively I might add. However, due to the differences in the mechanical action of the Orbital/Oscillating machine you achieve a higher degree of agitation, clean all sides of the fiber & with the spray system you have better control of how much solution you put down as opposed to gravity fed rotary shampoo. An added bonus is it is easier both physically & from a technician training stand point.

I do want to let you know that this is a very effective system for commercial carpeting & even some residential settings. However, this is not a be all end all system that will eliminate the need for Hot Water Extraction equipment. However, these 2 systems compliment each other rather nicely.
Section2
Preventive Maintenance

The CCS Brute & Orbitech CX Machines do have a few maintenance items. Mostly it is common sense & minimal tools are required. As always, if you have questions contact the manufacturer.

If the machine is used regularly, about once a month or so you will want to ensure that all bolts are tightened, the set screws on the wheels are snug & that the spray system is flushed with distilled white vinegar & water. If it's not used very often, flush the spray system every time its used.

Of course, you'll want to check the cords & electrical wiring for cracks & exposed copper for obvious safety reasons risk of shock, fire, etc.... This is a piece of electrical equipment after all. Use your head or ask your supervisor to use his/hers....

That pretty much covers it. There isn't a whole lot to these as far as keeping them running. Tighten you bolts every now & then, make sure your cord is serviceable & clean out your spray system. Piece of cake. Refer to the manufactures' recommendations in addition to this section.

Section 3
Safety Considerations

Safety of the operator & the people around him or her should be your primary concern at all times. As always, common sense applies. Think about what you are doing. Refer to the OSHA regulations & manufactures' safety precautions in addition to these.

These machines do not have a “dead man switch”. If you let go of the machine while it's on, it will continue to run. If you unplug the cord without turning the switch off, it will start running again when it is plugged in to an electrical outlet. This is especially a concern when working near stairs. The machine could make a fast break for the steps, fall down the stairs knock someone down the steps causing severe bodily harm or even death. This is also bad for the equipment.
This is a piece of electrical equipment. If it smells like it's burning unplug it immediately & remove it from the customers property.
This is a piece of electrical equipment. Do not get the switches, motor, wiring etc. wet. There is a real risk of electric shock, fire or other forms of bodily harm & property damage.
Be aware of what is in front of your sprayer. The spray system will operate no matter what position the head is in. If the jets are pointing up the solution will go up if your eyes are in front of the sprayer this could be bad. The spray system is operating as long as the machine is plugged in. If you bump the trigger it will spray.
These machines are heavy. Use a ramp or get assistance when loading/unloading the machines. You only get one back & it has to last you a lifetime.
Don't Drink & Pad-Cap! Alcohol impairs judgment & shouldn't be used prior to or during the operation of any equipment.
Do not operate this equipment in an explosive environment.
Watch your step especially when going from carpet to hard floor surfaces.
Be smart. Be safety conscious.

Refer to OSHA regulations & manufactures' safety precautions in addition to the above.

Section 4
Basic Operation

There are 3 main controls for the Brute & CX machines. The Drive Motor ON/OFF Switch & the Spray Trigger are generally the ones that will be used. There is also a valve under under the handle to adjust the rate of flow of solution.

The Drive Motor ON/OFF Switch has 2 settings – ON & OFF . This switch is independent of the spray system & affects only the drive motor. Either the motor is running or it's not. Even if the motor is off the Spray System is still in operation as long as the machine has power.

Caution:
Do not start the motor if the pad driver isn't : 1) In contact with a damp, lubricated pad under the pad driver prior to starting the machine & 2)ensure that the pad is in contact with the carpet. It can cause premature failure of the counter-balance & bearings if the motor is started in midair.

The Spray Trigger is located on the right hand side of the machine in easy reach of the hand grips. Even if the motor is off the Spray System is still in operation as long as the machine has power. Simply apply pressure to the trigger & the pump actuates. Release pressure & the pump stops. Simple.

The flow adjustment is under the handle & is a simple ball or screw valve. This is installed so you can choke the flow down in more congested areas where you cant' move as quickly as you can in wide open spaces. Play with it until you find your “sweet spot”.

Now that you understand what all the switches & knobs etc. do...

1.Fill the tank with your preferred cleaning solution.
2.Plug in the machine.
3.Lift the head of the machine by pushing down on the handle & lightly mist the carpet by applying pressure to the Spray Trigger.
4.Place a pad flat on the carpet & mist it lightly by applying pressure to the Spray Trigger.
5.Flip the pad over (misted side towards carpet) & lower the Pad Driver on top of it.
6.Place the Motor On/Off switch in the ON position & spray the carpet while walking forward.
7.When you need to change/flip pads or stop for any reason. Place the Motor ON/OFF switch in the off position. Flip the head back remove the pad & flip or replace it.

Yes, it really is that easy. But more detailed instructions are in the next section.



Section 5
Cleaning with the Brute/CX Machine


You'll like your new OP machine. Let's actually clean something step by step. I'll walk you through the preparations, packing list, cleaning & days end cleanup. It's not difficult but, pay attention anyway.

Preparation
Wash towels. You can take them from the washer fresh from the spin cycle to the carpet. Towels/pads need to be damp to avoid damage to the fibers of twisted cut pile carpeting, and they just clean better when moist.
Place damp towels in a bucket or cart.
Mix cleaning solution ahead of time. Be sure to have a container than can be closed up to prevent spills during transport & to save any unused solution. This allows you to set up fast once on the job site.
Packing List
Ensure you have plenty of towels
All Specialty spotters you may need
A Glider (A glider is a small plastic disk with Velcro on one side. It reduces friction and helps the machine run more smoothly on some carpets.)
A vacuum or pile lifter
A bag (or bucket or cart) for dirty towels
Enough concentrate of your preferred cleaning solution to complete the job & mix spotter from.
Air movers or fans.

Cleaning
1. Thoroughly vacuum or pile lift the areas to be cleaned.
For large areas, a wide area vacuum is desirable for the sake of production. For heavily soiled carpet, a pile lifter is desirable for the increased efficiency of soil removal.
2.Fill the tank with your preferred cleaning solution at the recommended dilution.
The higher the soil load is in the carpet the stronger the dilution of you cleaning solution. Refer to the directions on the bottle of concentrate.
3.Plug in the machine.
4.Lift the head of the machine by pushing down on the handle & lightly mist the carpet by applying pressure to the Spray Trigger. You only need to wet the area where you start the machine. Approximately a 2'x2' area.
However, if the carpet is heavily soiled you can trigger the sprayer and push the machine around as needed to pre-spray.
5.Place a pad flat on the carpet & mist it lightly by applying pressure to the Spray Trigger.
6.Flip the pad over (misted side towards carpet) & lower the Pad Driver on top of it.
On cut pile carpets, place a glider on the floor Velcro up and place the pad over the glider & then lower the Pad Driver on top of it. (Ensure the pad is free of wrinkles where the pad driver will sit.)
7.Place the Motor On/Off switch in the ON position & spray the carpet while walking forward.
8. Avoid the urge to spray too heavily. Lightly & quickly feather the Spray Trigger. In areas where the carpet is more soiled, slow down slightly and the the machine scrub.
9.If spots are not gone after your initial wet pass, make an additional dry pass. If the spot is still there repeat wet & dry pass.
On the dry pass, allow the machine to scrub for 3-5 seconds on the problem spot. Normally, this will take care of the problem, if not use a specialty spotter or a more concentrated mix of your cleaning solution.
10.Change pads approximately every 250 square feet. This interval will decrease as the soil load increases. Place soiled pads in a container to be laundered after the completion of the job.
When you need to change/flip pads or stop for any reason. Place the Motor ON/OFF switch in the off position.
11.Post spot any spots/stains not removed during cleaning.
12.Force carpet dry with air movers or fans. With the use of fans &/or air movers dry times can be as low as 30 minutes.
This step can & should begin as soon as possible, provided the fans wont blow the solution from the jets around.
13.Rake or pile lift cut pile carpet to set the nap.
Do not post vacuum as it will ruin your vacuum. If grooming with a pile lifter, ensure the vacuum motor is unplugged.
14.Pack up. Ensure you have everything you brought.
15.Walk the areas cleaned to ensure everything is in order & you have not left anything behind.
Address any issues with the carpet & collect any items left behind.

*Tip: When Cleaning, overlap your passes slightly & always try to find the longest cleaning path. On heavily soiled areas, you may want to clean North & South and East & West. Also change towels more frequently on heavily soiled carpet.

Days end cleanup
1. Drain all unused solution into container for storage. Run a gallon of water (or white vinegar) through the spray system.
2.Launder pads.
3.Wipe down the machine.
4.Protect machine from freezing as it can damage the pump.
5.PM machine as needed.
Section 6

Pad Selection & Supply - Most will soon be available at http://www.encapstore.com in the mean time other sources are provided.

Pad selection is an important part of the process. Generally there are 4 kinds of pads used for Pad Cleaning. They all have their function, a different life span & different interval for changing.

The first type of pad is 100% Cotton. They come in thick & thin varieties.
The thicker pads hold more soil allowing you to change pads less frequently and get more square footage per pad. However, sometimes the thicker pads do not clean as deeply & at times don't run well when flipped. Where as a thinner pad cleans better, but has to be flipped & changed more frequently. Thinner pads also wear faster than the thicker pads.

These pads are available from ccsop.com, cobbcarpet.com, argosheen.com & excellent-supply.com & will soon be available at encapstore.com.

Cotton Blend Pads:
The “best all around pad” I have found is the Gladiator Pad from CCSOP.com. These pads are a cotton & polyester blend. They out last cotton 10 or more times, clean well & hold plenty of soil. Also, the have less friction so they run smoother on cut pile carpet.

There is also a thinner version of this pad called the UltraPad. The Ultrapad is probably the 2nd best choice for moderate to lightly soiled cut pile carpet, however the Ultrapads are my prefered towel for Berber & commercial glue down carpet (CGD).

OP Combo Pad: (Now discontinued)

Tuway Thin-ones are also a very effective & very long lasting pad. They have 2 primary uses, pre-scrubbing heavily soiled carpet (Because they pick up larger particles than cotton or combo pads, pre-scrubbing lowers the soil load to let your cotton blend pads go a little farther before being changed. It also allows a little dwell time for you cleaning solution.) and cleaning lightly soiled carpet. These pads are available from any Tuway Distributor including CCSOP.com, Excellent-Supply.com & Vacaway.com and soon, http://www.encapstore.com.
Tuway Thin-One Pad:

Fiber Pads are another pad to consider. They are great for pre-scrubbing, and “Scrub & Run” shampooing. They are commonly found at any janitorial supply house. My preference is 3m Ice Blue burnishing pads.

However, Excellent-Supply.com has some plasticized pads known as Fiberplus & Fibermax Pads. The main benefit to these pads is they do not require laundering and are very aggressive scrubbers.


Micro Fiber Bonnets can also be used but I have found them to be less effective than the pads described above.

*Tip: Cotton Blend Pads/Towels should be wet (just shy of dripping) when cleaning cut pile carpet.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top Bottom