Mikey P
Administrator
Animal Stains
Dogs and cats may be our best friends, but not necessarily the best friends of our carpeting, draperies, and upholstery.
Urine: There are two types of reactions that can take place between the chemicals in an animal's urine and those in the dyes and fibers of textile furnishings. The first type of reaction is immediately noticeable. Some textile dyes can change color as soon as urine comes in contact with them.
The other type of reaction develops slowly over several days to several months and can result in permanent changes to the dyes and fiber. In many cases this type of damage can only be seen with the aid of a Black/UV light. Not only can the dye change but some fibers may become weakened or destroyed by the aged urine. The decomposing urine can also produce an objectionable odor. After cleaning, these areas are more obvious because the soils which hid the changed color and damaged fibers have been removed. Also, dyes weakened by urine can be removed or bleed during professional cleaning.
After cleaning, the area may still glow when observed under UV light. (Actually, the correct term is “fluoresce”—the treated area is reflecting the UV light back to your eyes as visible light.) This fluorescing is not due to the presence of urine in that spot, but from phosphorous left over from the breakdown of phosphocreatine. During that process the phosphorous becomes chemically bonded to the fibers as a dye would. Just like a dye, the phosphorous is now part of the surface of the fibers, and it is quite difficult to remove it without damaging the existing dyes on those fibers.
Feces: Pet feces tends to be easier to deal with than urine. Compact deposits can be quickly removed with a plastic scraper or spatula. The surface should then be cleaned with the standard spotting solution and blotted dry. Refer to the spotting steps below for further information and techniques) Follow this treatment with a disinfectant recommended by your IICRC Certified Cleaner or veterinarian.
Loose feces require the same clean-up procedure as described above for fresh urine removal. This should also be followed with an application of disinfectant.
If your pets' food or treats contain red dye to make it 'look meatier', this could leave a red discoloration at the site of the 'accident'. Your IICRC Certified Cleaner may be able to remove this but with caution as many red food dyes are nearly identical to fabric dyes and some color loss may be unavoidable.
A IICRC Certified Professional Cleaner willhave methods available to minimize the discoloration, disinfect the area and reduce the smell. It is often impossible, however, to completely restore the original appearance of a textile furnishing that has been damaged with aged pet urine. Especially if Do It Yourself attempts that have been improperly executed.
Care Tips: Use of a “Shop” or “Wet/Dry” vacuum rather than blotting with a towel is strongly recommended for the initial pick up of urine and loose feces and to extract spotting and rinsing agents.
Place a damp white cotton towel over affected areas to keep the effluent from drying if your or a professional’s cleaning attempt will be delayed.
Be aware that some disinfectants and “OXY” type products may cause discoloration of textile furnishings and carpet if not fully rinsed and neutralized.
1. Remove as much solid matter as possible.
2. Blot the area (if still moist from the spill) with a dry absorbent cloth.
3. Blot with a cloth dampened with clear water. Microfiber cloths are ideal for this purpose.
4. If the spot remains, apply dilute dishwashing liquid (a few drops in a cup of water) and blot again.
5. Repeat until the spot disappears.
6. Residual discoloration may be removed by applying 3% hydrogen peroxide, and leaving it to work. This may take several hours or a few attempts
7. If you own a home spotting or carpet cleaning machine, rinse the area with clear water only after no evidence of the spot remains.
8. If these procedures do not work, call this guy
Dogs and cats may be our best friends, but not necessarily the best friends of our carpeting, draperies, and upholstery.
Urine: There are two types of reactions that can take place between the chemicals in an animal's urine and those in the dyes and fibers of textile furnishings. The first type of reaction is immediately noticeable. Some textile dyes can change color as soon as urine comes in contact with them.
The other type of reaction develops slowly over several days to several months and can result in permanent changes to the dyes and fiber. In many cases this type of damage can only be seen with the aid of a Black/UV light. Not only can the dye change but some fibers may become weakened or destroyed by the aged urine. The decomposing urine can also produce an objectionable odor. After cleaning, these areas are more obvious because the soils which hid the changed color and damaged fibers have been removed. Also, dyes weakened by urine can be removed or bleed during professional cleaning.
After cleaning, the area may still glow when observed under UV light. (Actually, the correct term is “fluoresce”—the treated area is reflecting the UV light back to your eyes as visible light.) This fluorescing is not due to the presence of urine in that spot, but from phosphorous left over from the breakdown of phosphocreatine. During that process the phosphorous becomes chemically bonded to the fibers as a dye would. Just like a dye, the phosphorous is now part of the surface of the fibers, and it is quite difficult to remove it without damaging the existing dyes on those fibers.
Feces: Pet feces tends to be easier to deal with than urine. Compact deposits can be quickly removed with a plastic scraper or spatula. The surface should then be cleaned with the standard spotting solution and blotted dry. Refer to the spotting steps below for further information and techniques) Follow this treatment with a disinfectant recommended by your IICRC Certified Cleaner or veterinarian.
Loose feces require the same clean-up procedure as described above for fresh urine removal. This should also be followed with an application of disinfectant.
If your pets' food or treats contain red dye to make it 'look meatier', this could leave a red discoloration at the site of the 'accident'. Your IICRC Certified Cleaner may be able to remove this but with caution as many red food dyes are nearly identical to fabric dyes and some color loss may be unavoidable.
A IICRC Certified Professional Cleaner willhave methods available to minimize the discoloration, disinfect the area and reduce the smell. It is often impossible, however, to completely restore the original appearance of a textile furnishing that has been damaged with aged pet urine. Especially if Do It Yourself attempts that have been improperly executed.
Care Tips: Use of a “Shop” or “Wet/Dry” vacuum rather than blotting with a towel is strongly recommended for the initial pick up of urine and loose feces and to extract spotting and rinsing agents.
Place a damp white cotton towel over affected areas to keep the effluent from drying if your or a professional’s cleaning attempt will be delayed.
Be aware that some disinfectants and “OXY” type products may cause discoloration of textile furnishings and carpet if not fully rinsed and neutralized.
1. Remove as much solid matter as possible.
2. Blot the area (if still moist from the spill) with a dry absorbent cloth.
3. Blot with a cloth dampened with clear water. Microfiber cloths are ideal for this purpose.
4. If the spot remains, apply dilute dishwashing liquid (a few drops in a cup of water) and blot again.
5. Repeat until the spot disappears.
6. Residual discoloration may be removed by applying 3% hydrogen peroxide, and leaving it to work. This may take several hours or a few attempts
7. If you own a home spotting or carpet cleaning machine, rinse the area with clear water only after no evidence of the spot remains.
8. If these procedures do not work, call this guy
