Performer 405 Water Inlet Modification

[Newman]

My 405 is having issues with the new demand pump. I get about 25 minutes run time out of it until the demand pump overheats and the unit shuts down. From then on I have to let it cool for 10 minutes for 10 more minutes of run time, and so on, and so on, and so on...

I do not have the bladder tank.

Where do I go from here. My memory tells me someone has removed the water box and run without it? How is this modification done and what are the benefits?

I also recall someone posting a great method of plumbing the demand pump with a bypass system controlled by a valve to let the demand pump run continuously allowing the cool flowing water to keep the pump from overheating.

Is there something else I should do?

Which modification provides the best results, I thank you all in advance for your time and consideration.

 

[Desk Jockey]

Are you sure it's the demand pump? If you connect direct are there no problems?

Have you checked the level of coolant in the radiator? If low it would let you clean for 20-minutes and then shut down also.

I've never used one but this Mytee transfer pump might be worth trying out.

http://www.mytee.com/products/c361-truckmount-transfer-pump/#.UdGonZx5GSo

 

[Newman]

Yes, the thermal switch on the demand pump is shutting off the demand pump, then when the water box runs dry the machine shuts down due to no water.

If you connect direct are there no problems? I assume you mean connect direct to the customers water source. No I have not tried that.

Chavez, was it not you that converted the 405's to run without a water box?

 

[Newman]

Thank you Richard, I just ordered that Mytee transfer pump. By the description the better technology should solve my current issue.

View attachment 2374

You’ve never seen or used a truckmount transfer pump like this! Its cutting-edge technology makes it your transfer pump of choice. Once you’ve used it, it’s the only one you’ll ever want!
Why choose the Mytee® Truckmount Transfer Pump?

• No accumulator needed, so you’ll save money and time by not having to buy or install an additional tank. Its intelligent circuit board reduces 10 amps to a .1-milliamp signal, preventing rapid cycling and the need for an accumulator. Other pumps accept 16 to 18 amps, which causes overheating and can drain the battery.
• Prevents switch overheating and failure, so you won’t have to replace it. Other pumps start and stop at full power, causing switch damage. Its soft start/soft stop prevents damage.
• Greater flow, higher pressure to keep up with any truckmount on the market. Its patented 5-chamber design produces 5.3 GPM, the highest in the industry.
• Variable flow technology. It adjusts the motor’s RPM to keep pace with a high pressure pump’s flow demand, for optimum performance.
• Runs on 12 volts. Conveniently uses the same power source as your truckmount tank.
• Safety features, with industry first – a built-in, 40-mesh filter that prevents debris from clogging and damaging the pump, extending its life. It’s easy to remove, clean and replace in the field. Internal electronics are protected by circuitry embedded in the epoxy base plate.
• Comes complete with two ½” 90˚ swivel elbowsthat quick connect and disconnect, no tools required. They lock securely into place, and spin 360˚ to any position. Connect to any ½” solution hose.
• Virtually silent operation. With slower motor speeds and superior energy transmission, it’s up to 90% quieter than competing pumps.
• All parts are made and assembled in the U.S.A.

 

[Desk Jockey]

We are still using the demand pump with the water vessel but next time one goes I wanted to try the Mytee setup.

Let us know how it works, looks like a nice setup for the money.

 

[KevinD]

To get you by without overheating the demand pump.
Cut the line just before it goes to the mix tank and install a TEE fitting.
On one leg of the TEE run a hose back to the fresh water tank.
Put a inline valve in that line running back to the fresh tank
and open the valve just far enough so the pump runs continuously.

 

[Newman]

Yes that is it, thank you Kevin! Were you the one who posted pictures of that setup a while back?

 

[KevinD]

Yes that is it, thank you Kevin! Were you the one who posted pictures of that setup a while back?

No, not me.

 

[Shawn Abbey]

Here's something to consider....

[video=youtube;-pTuHNBIzLU]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-pTuHNBIzLU&list=PL2909E225A71D2629[/video]

 

[GeneMiller]

The float in the water box is the problem. It causes the line pressure to fluctuate to much causing rapid cycling. You don't need the float or the demand pump. You can add the same switch that shuts off you waste tank to your water box. I have a 4 in swing on mine . Now the pump has no resistant , just an open line and is either completely on or completely off. The pump will never die. I use the halwin switch for mine.

Gene

 

[juniorc82]

I was having trouble with my transfer pump and water box especialy while cleaning t&G I think due to the higher water usage. I ended bypassing the water box on my white magic and doing a direct feed from the freshwater tank to the pump. It looks primitive but it has simplified this machine a great deal. I also have a steam action truckmount set up on a direct feed. I like that better than a demand pump and water box. My helper was always forgetting to turn off the demand pump and draining the lawn and garden battery or the would run the water box dry and call me to coach him through priming the pump. Bypassing the water box solved a lot of problems