Picked up my Vortex

Aaron

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Oct 7, 2006
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Finally got to pick up my 'new' Vortex yesterday. It's a 2004 720. A fellow cleaner decided to go with a quieter machine since most of his work is at night in big resorts.

I'll be spending the next couple weeks tweakin it out with all the extras: underbody boxes, new wands, extra hoses, wrap, ect ect.

Sooooo, any other pointers for me? I've still got my 05 AT so it should be interesting comparing these units side by side.
 

Mikey P

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Wow Aaron where have you been?

Start by pulling apart the EDV and replacing the breather stone. Check the ground wire that comes off the Parker solenoid while you're down there.

Flush out the HX with diesel.

Check the fresh tank for leaks. AT was horrible at putting those tanks together. Fix it now while it's slow.

Clean and lube the spring relief valve.

Clean out the bores on the lower Xen HX with w shot gun brush.

Get some new front shocks ( HP room for more info)

Make sure your Cat clutch mounting bolt is tight and secure.

Check that the Fresh Water fill shut off valve is working.

Inspect the waste tank lid seal.

Inspect all non SS plumbing for internal corrosion.

Inspect the hose that connects the Glycol HX to the Xen HXs. (around the back side of the fresh tank)

Install a GG 3 to 2 2.5 Vanifold.



Let er rip.
 

Aaron

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Oct 7, 2006
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Been doing ALOT of traveling lately!

The unit has a small crack along the lower weld on the fresh tank. It goes in next week to re-weld it. Also, the diverter valve was stuck closed so I lubed it up and cleaned it out real good.

Thanks for the list Mike!!!! I'm going to print it out and send it out to the crew for next week!!!!!!
 

Jim Martin

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2004........... 720

same as mine........

pull the handles off the eagle reels and look to see how much crap is built up in there.......if a lot start working backwards........
personally................if you are going to go threw the trouble of draining and drying out the tank to have it fixed...........
find a good welder and just beef up the entire tank and baffles and get it over with....I was talking to a few others the other day and there baffle welds have let go also........

add some extension lines to the weep hoes for the blower grease and direct them down below to the frame of blower pipe so you don't get grease all over the belts


P.S........I try not to post anything that I haven't had experience with and/or checked into myowndamnself ........But I did here threw the carpet cleaning grape vine that you can (for $50) replace the shafts with SS ones
on the Eagle reels........ I never checked into this because I pulled mine out and hauled them to the dump and use a different type......but if your going to use them it may be in your best interest to find out........
 

TimP

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May 19, 2007
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There is 2005 vortex on the vortex site selling for 62,000. I think that's quite a bargain for someone looking to buy a used V. Low miles and hours too and a good bit of add junk on it from the looks of it to me.
 

The Preacher

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Oct 13, 2006
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the NEW AT i (my muther inLAw)just bought doesn't have ANY problems.

Joe B set me up with hoses, cuffs and some other stuff he won't sell through distributors, so i'm set. Come see me on Nicks BBS if you want a list of things to look for that i came across when i owned a V that i sold for 2x what i (my Muther inLaw) paid for it and went over to AT!!!

PS business is up over 750% this month and i'm going to write a book on a FAMILY (Muther inLaw and me) run biz and how i get her to pay for every thing!!!

RAmpage on Dannys computer!

PPS Dannys muther inLaw just brought me coffee, i have her under my spell also :shock:
 

Aaron

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Oct 7, 2006
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I was looking at the diverter valve last night. Is there a way to get into the flapper assembly? It looks like one large cast unit (my 2005 has a door on the passenger side that allows me to open it up and clean out any gunk in there). I have the vac pod and actuator box off, but can't seem to get into the main unit.
 

Bob Foster

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Oct 8, 2006
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At Costco the other day I saw a vinyl floor mat for garages that you park your car on. It was large and would cover the floor of a V/AT very well.

It was a medium grey color with a diamond check pattern on it. It was around 100 bucks and it looked durable. Being a grey color it won't show cleaning chemical residual like the dark mats do.
 

Jim Martin

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Aaron said:
I was looking at the diverter valve last night. Is there a way to get into the flapper assembly? It looks like one large cast unit (my 2005 has a door on the passenger side that allows me to open it up and clean out any gunk in there). I have the vac pod and actuator box off, but can't seem to get into the main unit.

if it looks like this
100_4049.jpg


not to my knowledge.........
the 3 bolts come off and the shaft pulls out
clean........ grease

take end of hammer and stick up tail pipe to open flapper and put it back together.......


I had a little build up on mine and just used a wire brush and stuck it up the pipe and cleaned it..........
 

Aaron

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Oct 7, 2006
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I can't get the shaft out. The flapper was 'frozen' in the up position (no exhaust to the HX, just out the tailpipe). I dissasembled, but couldn't pull out the shaft. I DID manage to get some MMO down into the top port and free up the flapper, then flush with HX cleaner from AT and now if opens and closes fairly smooth (still snags a little on the top and bottem end). I don't want to torque on the shaft too hard, it feels like there is a retainer clip or something holding it in.
 

Jim Martin

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no retainer of any type on mine
but I do remember when I first got mine and I had the same type of problem.......

I just had to lean into it .put some ass behind it and pull it out......

Mike told me to take the stupid oil cup off and put a grease fitting
so I have been running like that from that point on..when I do my 50 hour service I give it a few shots of high temp grease and it has been working great and stay much cleaner...........
 

Aaron

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Oct 7, 2006
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Guess I'll have to give it a little more beans.

I was going to ask you about the zerk on top! Last time I checked it with a Pyrometer, the EGT's on this thing are around 500+ at the diverter during normal operation. What grease have you found that doesn't gum up and oxidize at those temps? My Mobil 1 Syn grease I use for blowers and drive shafts says it has a temp range of only 305F.
 

Jim Martin

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DSF-5000



it is a synthetic and can handle some pretty high temps......
and it won't carbon up.......

also try taking a small pry bar and stick between the box and the pipe and try wiggling the shaft loose/out
 
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Aaron with the help of Mikey and Jim I have fixed my froze up bigger dan chit EDV. Took mine off the truck and my neighbor and I went nutz with a hammer and some vice grips. Wiggle and pull at the same time, she will come out about the time your eyeballs get red with blood. lol

Get some lapping creme and work that sleeve with it to clean up the inside. I had a gun smith clean mine up. Emory cloth the shaft do the hammer trick to flapper and your good to go.
 
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