Porty Diaphragm Pumps

[GeeeAus]

G'day everybody.

Things have been keeping me super busy and I have been doing three a day as an average for a few months now.

Have hit a rough spot though.

Two weeks ago, the pump in my porty failed. I had been using it six months.

So I get a replacement which is identical from the manufacturer.

This pump lasts 10 jobs.

I have a third identical part going in. And I have confidence... It will fail too.

So this is obviously a bit of an issue for me as I need to work.

Machine is only young and I need to try and find a way to work with it.

Just wondering if anybody can suggest a better pump.

Local manufacturer has indicated the Rotovac is the issue as it has demands the pump has difficulty meeting.

I was hoping to find a better pump that will fit in the limited space.thank you all very much for reading.

 

[Scott S.]

cooking lunch beside your pump there? foil dinner?

 

[Mikey P]

@Willy P

 

[dgardner]

When it fails, does the pump stop running, or does it continue to run but stops pumping? Do you use any chemicals in your rinse water? I see the heater right next to the pump - does it radiate much heat in normal operation?

 

[GeeeAus]

Thanks for the responses. I also think the pump is a bit close to the BBQ grill.

It is on the discharge side. Needs more ventilation I think too.

 

[GeeeAus]

When it fails, does the pump stop running, or does it continue to run but stops pumping? Do you use any chemicals in your rinse water? I see the heater right next to the pump - does it radiate much heat in normal operation?

Thanks for your question.

When it fails, it trips the customers circuit breaker. I reset it. The vacuums all work, heater works but pump is open circuit.

The Aquatec 220PSI pump has a thermal cutout. But this never trips. The pump just shirts and then becomes open circuit.

Third pump is going in. Don't know what to think? Big scary issues.

This doodad feeds us....

 

[GeeeAus]

Pump internals concerning diaphragm and water bearing parts are all fine.

I do use chemical, an acid rinse.

 

[Scott S.]

maybe your switch is just going out. is it repairable on those pumps?

 

[Ed Valentine]

Grant;

1. It is not the cause of using a Rotovac because even if the rotovac demands greater volume, it would not cause the switch to go bad , or tax it in any way.
2. I can only make a guess and side with those whom suggest that "heat" could be the possible problem. Heat can tear down the rubber internals and eventually leak into the pump head and internal switch.
3. Although the correct air venting design is important, I doubt that is the problem.
4. Another factor which makes a pump switch of that type go bad is using a tool with a small spray jet. (ex: handtool) Smaller jet openings will tax that switch; on, and, off and will quickly add working time far beyond its capability and life.
5. Also something to consider: On a 230v motor, Hz is a very important factor as how long a pump will last.

Having stated that above, those are good pumps only when used in the right situation/machine.

Hope this helps.
Ed Valentine
cross-American corp

 

[Mikey P]

Ed would you mind commenting in the other (popular) portable threads we have going right now..

http://mikeysboard.com/forum/index.php?threads/questions-for-you-portable-gurus.279508/

http://mikeysboard.com/forum/index.php?threads/vlmrs-and-porty-guys-i-want-to-see-your-vans.279634/

 

[Ed Valentine]

Thanks Mikey. I will do that.
However, the first one appears directed toward the operator(s) if I read that correctly.

Best to all

 

[Mikey P]

well... yeah...

I assume you have photos of truck set ups, right?

 

[SCC]

I have one that looks like yours but it's 115v. Are you using the right pump at 230v?

 

[GeeeAus]

Can you suggest a better pump that will cope and fit?

Thank you.

I will buy this from you.

 

[rick imby]

Are you using the heater?

Try it without it for a while---

 

[GeeeAus]

I have been using the heater. I am having some of the components reshuffled so as o can put the heater further away from the pump.

I am also installing fans.

I would -like - to keep using the heater as it makes for amazing results abs dry times.

But I will do a few with no heat and see how that goes.

Thank you. Great suggestion.

 

[GeeeAus]

Anybody got a link to some higher PSI and flow diaphragm pumps?

 

[Old Coastie]

You may have a gremlin in the form of condensation in the switch (or elsewhere). You say internals are okay..

Can you shift the pump away from the heater a bit?

 

[GeeeAus]

You may have a gremlin in the form of condensation in the switch (or elsewhere). You say internals are okay..

Can you shift the pump away from the heater a bit?

I am getting somebody to look at doing exactly that. I also feel the heater is too close.

I cannot understand why the thermal protection on the pump never trips? Instead the pump blows.

So strange.

 

[Goomer]

I have learned to always rule out heat first.
Running it without heat or with the clamshell wedged an inch or so open for additional compartment ventilation would be a good test.

My only experience with diaphragm pumps was with a pump out unit, which I found to be plagued with problems with small debris clogging the very small passages and would only be reliable in the long term with proper filtering of the waste water, which would only cause lack of output, never what you mentioned.

 

[rick imby]

It might be cheaper to buy one of the Steambright or Mytee heaters. Both of them are muli units so you can choose the watts you want to delegate to the heater.

Both the Mytee and the Steambrite have larger tanks so they will build up and hold their heat a bit better. Also both would sit nicely in front of your porty, next to your filter if you have one.

I think @Willy P is one of the more knowledgeable Porty heater guys.

A milli amp computer fan on the side of your motor compartment---if you can find a 110--- one would be really easy to add on to the pump power and probably cure the heat issue. I would put it so it blows in on the pump first and then vent out on the side of the heater.

 

[Willy P]

It might be cheaper to buy one of the Steambright or Mytee heaters. Both of them are muli units so you can choose the watts you want to delegate to the heater.

Both the Mytee and the Steambrite have larger tanks so they will build up and hold their heat a bit better. Also both would sit nicely in front of your porty, next to your filter if you have one.

I think @Willy P is one of the more knowledgeable Porty heater guys.

A milli amp computer fan on the side of your motor compartment---if you can find a 110--- one would be really easy to add on to the pump power and probably cure the heat issue. I would put it so it blows in on the pump first and then vent out on the side of the heater.

Rick nailed it, a 5 inch computer fan should solve your problem. I had the same issue ith my powerflite, Cooking pumps every 3 months - TWICE- until I put in the fan. Now I'm 8 months in and running strong, Hint - Cat xp http://www.catpumps.com/1xp.asp

 

[roro]

Think I would forget about heating in your machine and go for an in-line heater on your solution line. In our experience pumps like cold water and last longer. Doing away with the heater should also allow you to run a gruntier pump without exceeding 10 amps. Looks like you operate out in the sticks so a Little Giant would be the go.

Not your exact pump but from the manufacturer's site for a 5800Model: 58XX-7X12-B704.
"3.The motor driving all of these pump models has a built in thermal protector that will open, shutting off the pump, when the surface temperature of the motorheats to approximately 145°F. After the initial room temperature heat rise as shown, the model 58X4 reaches the shut off temperature after about 40 to 45minutes of run time, pumping about 53 gallons at 70 PSI.
4. Motors of this size and construction require 20 to 40 minutes of cooling time before the thermal protector closes and re-energizes the pump. Lower current levels heat more slowly, allowing longer run times, but the cool down time still averages about 30 minutes, at 70°F ambient temperature.
5. Your application may call for short bursts of water, consuming far less than the 42 minutes of sustained operation. Start up current exceeds normal running current, however, so cycling should be limited to 6 times per minute"

roro

 

[GeeeAus]

Hi there. I actually just trigger on constantly with the Rotivsc until the tank is empty. Usually about 15 - 20 minutes.

Then I switch it all off, dump the waste and refill.

The first pump lasted 4 months of beating with the Rotovac. Admittedly I trim the tap on the Rotovac so much it s only - just - open.

The heater is an inline unit, that is after the pump but installed in the machines body for space efficiency.

Does this help any?