Porty extractor for small flood jobs ???

Mardie

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I do small flood jobs and am looking for a water extractor with a pump out.Do not need a holding tank.
I want the most vacuum power available with 2 cords each running of off 15amp circuits.
The best one i have seen so far is the CFX from Roto Vac. It has 2--3 stage vac motors at over 200cfm and a 6 Gal. per min. pump out.I can not find info on the water lift.I have called roto vac and could not get the waterlift numbers.
Is their a comprable or more powerfull machine for this use on the market ?
Is their anything about the CFX that would not be as good as it sounds.
 

Art Kelley

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The Air Hog Plus would be more rugged and cost $800 less. I use it and the pumpout works great and can take seven gallon gulps when necessary. The CFX's pumpout seems to be problematic from what I've read from those who use one daily for CC, but it would probably serve you well for the occasional flood job. Plus it's weight and size make it more convenient than the AH Plus. They both take 2 15 amp cords.
 
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Connor

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Do you dry the structure, too, Mardie, or just suck up the water?
 

Mardie

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Do you dry the structure, too, Mardie, or just suck up the water?

The only structure i will do is basment walls along the floors.A little bit of dry wall work is so simple to do. Other than that i just suck water and dry up and do not get into structure.
 

Connor

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How does that work, do you have dehus or something? Do you use a moisture meter, FLIR cameras? How do you check your work?

Or do you hack at it like you do carpet cleaning? :stir:
 
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Mardie

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How does that work, do you have dehus or something? Do you use a moisture meter, FLIR cameras? How do you check your work?

Or do you hack at it like you do carpet cleaning? :stir:

With just doing structure in basment and along the bottom of the walls it is pretty much a no brainer to know whether or not to open them up.If the water came from above i am not qualified or equipped to do them and do not. I rent deus.and airmovers.Do not use moisture meters.When the deus stop drawing she is bone dry.I also tarp in the areas that are effected so the deus are much more effective.I do not do wood floor basments and have not run into any yet.I do have a $4000 aranizer which is like an ozone but diferent to finish the job.
 

Connor

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With just doing structure in basment and along the bottom of the walls it is pretty much a no brainer to know whether or not to open them up.If the water came from above i am not qualified or equipped to do them and do not. I rent deus.and airmovers.Do not use moisture meters.When the deus stop drawing she is bone dry.I also tarp in the areas that are effected so the deus are much more effective.I do not do wood floor basments and have not run into any yet.I do have a $4000 aranizer which is like an ozone but diferent to finish the job.

When the dehu's stop drawing? Seriously?

You do know that..... never mind, you don't.

There's more to psychrometrythan running dehu's till they shut off. I think you're opening yourself up to liability because you dry based upon hunches.
 

Mardie

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When the dehu's stop drawing? Seriously?

You do know that..... never mind, you don't.

There's more to psychrometrythan running dehu's till they shut off. I think you're opening yourself up to liability because you dry based upon hunches.
Dry is dry and in (the situations that i deal with) their is no need for metering equipment.
I use lots of heat and the deus dont shut of they are running all the time.When i am done the room and contents are bone dry. Anyone with any experience can walk into a room and pretty much tell how the drying is comming along or not.Common sence knowledge and understanding are also determining factors for when to know when a job is done.Ever walk into a sauna 0r stick your head into a hot dry oven?
When i am done with a job like this the client is better off than they were before the flood .

Connor i am not dealing with major structural work here so stop trying to use examples of that for what i do.
 

Connor

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Ever walk into a sauna 0r stick your head into a hot dry oven?
.


Nope, why don't you do that for an hour and tell me how it went. :icon_cool:

Do what you want, Mardie.

I'm just saying that there is something called too dry.
 

SMRBAP

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Ditto x3000

Get certified, get meters, get a standardized protocol in place that is accepted by standards.

Contact your liability insurer, let them know you are doing water losses (your premium will go up). If you are not insured to do water losses, better to not do them. Your insurer can deny a claim should you be sued.

In the drying game, it's not if you will be sued, it's when will you be sued. Your a guaranteed loser in a courtroom unless you fill the gaps you currently have.

Put the money in the portable you are seeking to a wrt class, a tramex, stick, and hygrometer at absolute minimum.

99% of the mold quotes we do are water damages dried by companies that guessed and felt their way through.

Mardie - it's not a matter of are you right - it's a matter of having what you need to prove you are when and if questions arise.

Secondly - you are guaranteed cheating yourself big money not billing to standards - virtually everyone does that dries your way.

If insurers never question your invoices, it's because they are too low.
 
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Mardie

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Ditto x3000

Get certified, get meters, get a standardized protocol in place that is accepted by standards.

Contact your liability insurer, let them know you are doing water losses (your premium will go up). If you are not insured to do water losses, better to not do them. Your insurer can deny a claim should you be sued.

In the drying game, it's not if you will be sued, it's when will you be sued. Your a guaranteed loser in a courtroom unless you fill the gaps you currently have.

Put the money in the portable you are seeking to a wrt class, a tramex, stick, and hygrometer at absolute minimum.

99% of the mold quotes we do are water damages dried by companies that guessed and felt their way through.

Mardie - it's not a matter of are you right - it's a matter of having what you need to prove you are when and if questions arise.

Secondly - you are guaranteed cheating yourself big money not billing to standards - virtually everyone does that dries your way.

If insurers never question your invoices, it's because they are too low.

Thanks
I have never worked through an insurance company and have not persued it.I only have done small jobs for previous clients. 20- 100 gal jobs in basments and these jobs just fall into my lap, I do not mention to anyone that i do this work. I do like the work but it is a whole other ballgame that i simply cannot persue on a larger scale.
 

Desk Jockey

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Mardie I think everyone is just trying to keep you out of trouble. I'd say if you do it regularly you should invest in (2) meter, a nondestructive and a penetrating meter.

Up your rate a bit to cover the cost of the meters, attend a class when they have one held near you.
 
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Mardie

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Mardie I think everyone is just trying to keep you out of trouble. I'd say if you do it regularly you should invest in (2) meter, a nondestructive and a penetrating meter.

Up your rate a bit to cover the cost of the meters, attend a class when they have one held near you.

Agree
 

Dan

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Marcie,

Sounds like some sound advice to me your getting. Stop doing your customers and our industry wrong. Get educated and invest in some proper equipment to do the job properly.
 
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Shorty

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Sorry Mardie but I also agree with what the others are trying to tell you.

You do need instruments to verify complete dry, smell and feel are not enough and could land you in serious financial trouble in court.

One instance I found.

I was called to a job where this guy had air movers blowing against a wall.

Skirtings were still fixed to the base, you may call them baseboards I think.

He also had car spray painters high intensity flood lamps projected against the walls.

He was walking along next to the wall and feeling it with his hands.

Because the walls were warm/hot, he deduced they were dry.

We turned off all his equipment and I ran a pinless moisture meter over the walls.

Surprise.... the entire walls were still holding moisture which was coming in from an upstairs level.

The timber skirtings also were showing high levels of moisture.

After removing the skirtings, installing dehums; and positioning the air movers differently, we were able to dry the building in a day, where he had already been there for four days.

He was grateful to me for showing him the right way and we still refer work to each other as we need to.

:very_drunk:
 

tmdry

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People like Mardie is what us restorers have to deal with everyday w/ clients that had people hacking out jobs before and now we are there "correcting" the current damage and all the previous ones.

I just got back in this am from a loss that the client assured me she "was not worried about the walls or base" and just the carpet and "the other co charged half during Sandy" of what I guestimated her, aka ChemWHO - She flat out told me they had no meters...I had my nav pro and other "toys" w/ me.

Get some education and do the job right, or just don't do it at all (Now I'm starting to sound like Craig aka Floodman back in the day), he would be proud.

Off to another Travelers call - I think they love me.
 
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