Radiant candle power space heater

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George Valliant
do you think this Is this a good inexpensive way to keep your truckmount from freezing?

my electric bill skyrockets in winter so i'm always looking for a cheap way to keep my rig warm.

what do you think? will this work or what?

http://youtu.be/nzKbFzUEWkA
 

Russ T.

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I can't imagine that it's any more dangerous than a space heater.


The Clean Machine
 

Shane T

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You would still need a fan to circulate the air. Without it there will be some spots that will still be in danger of freezing.
 

Billy

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That is interesting & I would seriously consider that setup in an emergency if my electricity went out & genset failed.

With this setup you would need to make sure your candles would burn all night & use air circulation to spread heat out IMO



Not sure it will help you but here is how we heat the BigBearTruck:

I have tried many different ways to heat the BigBearTruck since it will not fit in Garage as my old truck did. I ended up using two thermostatically controlled wall mount heaters which by themselves use allot of electricity & didn't heat the truck well on colder nights even on high. So I added a third heater which used even more electricity two barely keep the inside above freezing.

I later figured out I could use air circulation to keep the heat moving around the truck significantly less electricity.

We now use:

1. One Thermostatically controlled Wall Heater on Front wall high mounted on the Passenger side setting the dial between 1 & 2

2. One Thermostatically controlled Wall Heater on Side wall Midway in box low mounted on Drivers side setting the dial between 1 & 2

3. One Small AirKing (Now using XPower Mini Air Mover on low) set to low on the floor just below & to the front of the Drivers Side Heater with air flowing towards side door.

4. I also cover my Blower with a Moving blanket to cut down on heat loss thru floor opening.

This has been the most efficient way I have found to heat my truck & usually keeps it in the mid 40s even on the coldest nights. If needed I could turn the heaters up a little & keep it higher though.

The Air circulation makes all the difference & causes heaters to run more like my house heat does only when needed.


Now we are saving even more since while redesigning the interior we added 3/4" foam insulation to the roof which is why I was able to quit using two air movers.

We also use a three zone Temp Sensor to monitor the truck which is why I know how well the truck stays heated.
 

idreadnought

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it really depends on your level of freeze in your area. I actually use a candle in one of my vans to keep it from freeezing. Keep in mind that our freezing is in the neighborhood of 25f at its worst so the risk is minimal. The candle does enough to keep it warm enough to prevent freeze in the few hours it falls to the temp.
 

floorguy

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has anyone used one of those parabolic type heaters??? or infrared???

assuming my wording is right
 

Billy

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has anyone used one of those parabolic type heaters??? or infrared???

assuming my wording is right

This type of heat is good but very directional in nature. They have one at Costco that is setup as a demo. You don't feel any heat around it until you are in front of the reflector but once there it is HOT!!!!!!
 

Mardie

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I am looking at getting a new van next summer and will not be able to get it in my garage so heating is a major concern and potentially a very large heating bill so I have looked at the many options an this is what I have come up with.----------The van will be spray foam insulated including the floor. I will then an install tubing for an in floor heating system such as is used in homes for in floor heating. For a heat source while driving around during the day the engine coolant will run through the lines and at night I will use an electric recirculating block heater such as is used for large truck and heavy equipment. The engine fluid will keep the fluid in the lines hot at all times during the work day. I find several advantages to this method of heating. Very safe with no potential flame ignition points. It would also provide the most even heat dispersal so their would be no cold spots. No air movers required. This design would also be very energy efficient and reliable and provide an excellent heat sink in case the power went out. It is also out of sight and out of mind which I like.
 

Mardie

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has anyone used one of those parabolic type heaters??? or infrared???

assuming my wording is right
Radiant heat which you are referring to is a lot more efficient than ambient heating BUT it will only heat the surfaces that it can see and not the air. Proper installation would be crucial for a van. If I were to utilize a radiant heat source for a van I would get one that would mount on the ceiling and be close to the same length of the inside of the box. That way you know that all surfaces will be kept warm. They are very narrow and you can get them in any length you need.
I personally do not like this method for the inside of a van.
 

Billy

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I am looking at getting a new van next summer and will not be able to get it in my garage so heating is a major concern and potentially a very large heating bill so I have looked at the many options an this is what I have come up with.----------The van will be spray foam insulated including the floor. I will then an install tubing for an in floor heating system such as is used in homes for in floor heating. For a heat source while driving around during the day the engine coolant will run through the lines and at night I will use an electric recirculating block heater such as is used for large truck and heavy equipment. The engine fluid will keep the fluid in the lines hot at all times during the work day. I find several advantages to this method of heating. Very safe with no potential flame ignition points. It would also provide the most even heat dispersal so their would be no cold spots. No air movers required. This design would also be very energy efficient and reliable and provide an excellent heat sink in case the power went out. It is also out of sight and out of mind which I like.

I use a coolant forced air heater while driving as well as get residual heat from the Stainless Water Tank full of Hot Water. The coolant heater is mounted high on front wall centered to blow air to back of truck.

Your idea sounds cool though if I lived in an area that really got that cold.

I also looked in to Diesel Truck heaters but the cost was prohibitive for benefit since our cold weather doesn't last that long.
 

Dolly Llama

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candles aren't free

wonder what cost savings would really be compared to a running a ceramic heater at 750wts ??



That is interesting & I would seriously consider that setup in an emergency if my electricity went out & genset failed.

if you can't move the hot air around, might not be so great.
in power outage emergencies, kero or propane heaters..still have the air circulation issue, but they're generally so "over kill" heat output(in particular the common 23K BTU kero convection heaters) it won't be a big issue

in lue of that, for you slide guys, start the TM, block off the vac port (for max load on engine and blower)
Run it for 15 minutes or so and shut it down .
it will put out a tremendous amount of radiant heat

if your exhaust is run thru the floor like mine, you can close the doors while running ..it''ll be 100 degrees inside the van in ten minutes .
The engine and blower radiant heat will keep it above freezing for hours
(assuming it's not a rust bucket holes in the floor, outside in 10 below 20 mph winds)


Dirct drive guys can do it too, but you're only getting radiant heat from the blower ,which is substantial, but not as much as blower and engine like slide-ins


..L.T.A.
 

Billy

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candles aren't free

wonder what cost savings would really be compared to a running a ceramic heater at 750wts ??

if you can't move the hot air around, might not be so great.
in power outage emergencies, kero or propane heaters..still have the air circulation issue, but they're generally so "over kill" heat output(in particular the common 23K BTU kero convection heaters) it won't be a big issue

in lue of that, for you slide guys, start the TM, block off the vac port (for max load on engine and blower)
Run it for 15 minutes or so and shut it down .
it will put out a tremendous amount of radiant heat

if your exhaust is run thru the floor like mine, you can close the doors while running ..it''ll be 100 degrees inside the van in ten minutes .
The engine and blower radiant heat will keep it above freezing for hours
(assuming it's not a rust bucket holes in the floor, outside in 10 below 20 mph winds)


Dirct drive guys can do it too, but you're only getting radiant heat from the blower ,which is substantial, but not as much as blower and engine like slide-ins


..L.T.A.


I have multiple heat sources already in place for power outage because we went without power for almost a week during a 1994 winter ice storm.

1. Whole House Genset which is first line of defense & hasn't let me down yet.

2. Propane heaters of different types.

3. The ability to use the truck to heat the Water Tank up to 170 degrees using the radiant heat & the wall mounted coolant heater if nothing else.

4. I also have a kerosene heater but really wouldn't use unless last resort.

5. I could also move most equipment in my basement that never freezes due to being below ground & run antifreeze in the lines of mount but this would be a extreme case when all other forms of heat failed.
 

Billy

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Anyone ever thought of adapting a RV Propane heat system to their setup? I have a RV & it has one that is pretty efficient on Propane & keeps us very warm when in the mountains during the winter.

I guess overall I am lucky our cold weather is mild compared to most & doesn't last all that long so I haven't done more than stated above & the cost is negligible for benefit.
 

Billy

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I figured that, Billy

got a hand crank generator and ham radio too?:icon_razz:

..L.T.A.


LOL actually I can hand start Genset if nothing else but no HAM just CB & FRS, never took the test when I was into Radios. I was a Boy Scout though which is why I always try to think of worst case scenarios & backups just in case.

My wife thinks I over think everything & she is probably correct in all reality.
 
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Dolly Llama

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LOL actually I can hand start Genset if nothing else but no HAM just CB & FRS, never took the test when I was into Radios. I was a Boy Scout though which is why I always try to think of worst case scenarios & backups just in case.

My wife thinks I over think everything & she is probably correct in all reality.

glad you have a sense of humor, Billy

BTW, welcome back


..L.T.A.
 

Billy

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glad you have a sense of humor, Billy

BTW, welcome back


..L.T.A.


LOL I have to have a sense of humor because I am such a good target to pick on.


Thanks I have been around just been busy with projects & business. Also didn't think I had much to offer on boards with so many more knowledgeable people than me.
 
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Goomer

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I think the monetary risk involved warrants more than a votive with a flower pot on top.

Liquid wax around the wick can often choke out or limit the flame size.
 

Goomer

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LOL actually I can hand start Genset if nothing else but no HAM just CB & FRS, never took the test when I was into Radios. I was a Boy Scout though which is why I always try to think of worst case scenarios & backups just in case.

My wife thinks I over think everything & she is probably correct in all reality.

I remember the fcc was condsidering no longer makjng the ham operator test a requirement. Not sure what came of it.

I miss my cb radio. I gotta order another "stronger" one from up north.
 
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KevinL

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I saw this clay pot heater somewhere the other day and I couldn't figure out how it could make more heat than just the candles alone.
 

Goomer

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Has anyone with hot water baseboard heat in their home considered tapping into the water hot supply and running a loop outside to a small radiator inside the van??
Maybe even 2 lengths of solution line with quick-connects
Of course, the closer to the house you can get the better, and insulating the lines would help.

Feasible or Fail??
 

idreadnought

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yes that is feasable and you dont even need radiant heat. What you do need is a pump on your water heater. problem is the cost. and it would have to be an ac evaporator or condensor because a radiator wont take the pressure. Those systems maintain a couple psi higher pressure than the water pressure in the water heater.

So after researching candles I came to the conclusion that they put out about 400 btus of heat and the equivalent to a 120 watt light bulb. This works for me in temps that are only 25f at their low for a couple hours a night.

Thinking harder my next suggestion would be a coleman propane lantern. Those go up to 14 hours on low and a 1lb propane tank has 20000 btus of energy. setting it on medium for 10 hours burn would give you a cheap 2000 btu an hour heater.
 

idreadnought

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and one more thing. Since this thread is primarly on saving money lets break down the cost of electric heaters.

a 1500 watt electric heater puts out 5400 btus of heat an hour. Remember the candle put out 400. In california our electricity prices are tiered, the more the use the higher each kw costs (kw is a thousand watts btw) it costs. (wish i could price carpet cleaning like that). So here a kw will cost you between 12cents and 30 cents. so the 1500 watt heater will cost between 18 cents and 45 cents an hour on high, or 12 cents and 30 cents on low.

Consider your running the heater from 8pm till 8am and it runs continually without the thermostat kicking in then the cost per day would be $2.16-$5.40.

Now lets use the original poster in New Mexico. His rates in that state are closer to the 13cents a kw. Him running the heater all night would cost $2.34 per night or $70 for the month. And after looking at his weather he wouldn't need the heater on high, and the heater would most likely cycle on and off lowering that even more. How many pennies are we shaving here?
 
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Goomer

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and one more thing. Since this thread is primarly on saving money lets break down the cost of electric heaters.

a 1500 watt electric heater puts out 5400 btus of heat an hour. Remember the candle put out 400. In california our electricity prices are tiered, the more the use the higher each kw costs (kw is a thousand watts btw) it costs. (wish i could price carpet cleaning like that). So here a kw will cost you between 12cents and 30 cents. so the 1500 watt heater will cost between 18 cents and 45 cents an hour on high, or 12 cents and 30 cents on low.

Consider your running the heater from 8pm till 8am and it runs continually without the thermostat kicking in then the cost per day would be $2.16-$5.40.

Now lets use the original poster in New Mexico. His rates in that state are closer to the 13cents a kw. Him running the heater all night would cost $2.34 per night or $70 for the month. And after looking at his weather he wouldn't need the heater on high, and the heater would most likely cycle on and off lowering that even more. How many pennies are we shaving here?

Very true.

When adding up the total cost of damaged equipment, loss of work, and a boatload of aggravation, I dont see any benefit it trying to save so little and doing it half-arsed.
 

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