Red stains

[SRI Cleaning]

What types of products are you guys using. I have successfully removed quite a few red stains but I feel like I still have room for improvement. Any tips or tricks? Any products that are better for certain situations?

 

[packfancjh]

I've been playing with the new Red Zone from Bridgepoint and it's been working well for me.

 

[Shawn Forsythe]

Anthony,

Your difficulty with red stains may not lie with the effectiveness of your red removal product, but the application or the decision to use it.

Let me explain.

All too often, people conclude due to preconception that the red removal products they are using are "general purpose" or "all inclusive" red stain removers. Therefore they always associate red stain removal with only one product. What they either don't realize, or forgot is that products labeled as Red Stain Removers are most often reducing agents that are only going to work on a select classification of dyes. OK yes, "red" is the predominant color of this class of artificial dyes, thus the product name. This can cause confusion indeed.

"Red stain remover" reducing agents are generally limited to:

Betadine/Iodine (Oxidizers will often work also)
Candy (Red Food dye)
Kool Aid (red)
Cough Syrup – red
Hair Dye
Hi-lighter –Yellow or Green

Where problems most occur using a red stain remover is on the un-identified stains, especially red ones. Cleaners will often reach first to the reducing agent, apply heat to these un-identified red stains and be dissatisfied with the results.

In actuality, it is preferable to use an oxidizer (e.g. Stain Zone, Stain Magic), first, then gauge the activity or progress using the oxidizer. You might be surprised that these mystery red stains are solved by the application of the product you thought was not going to work, because out of habit you were used to reaching for the Red Stain Product first.

Some red(ish) dyes or stain elements are only going to be effectively removed through oxidation, such as; Blood, Coffee, Tea, Feces,Highlighter red, red inks and marker stains, Real Fruit Juice and Red Wine.

If the mystery stain is untouched by the oxidizer, then and only then switch to the reducer.

The rationale behind using an oxidizer first, reducer second is that with a reducer you often apply heat to accelerate a reducer. If the reducer does not work on that type of stain, the heat itself can chemically alter the stain element into something that will either react with the fiber dyes, or will render that stain element, which would have been previously removable by oxidation, to something that now is not removable by either. Since heat acceleration is generally never applied with an oxidizer, the oxidizer step is highly unlikely to render the situation worse for the subsequent use of the reducer.


p.s. It should be noted that some stains, are chromatically disrupted (color removed), by either a reducer or an oxidizer. Coffee is an example. Thus, when we consult stain guides we might find seemingly contradictory information as compared with another guide. This is the case when the particular guide is promoting a specific product line where the particular formulation of the oxidizer or reducer is most effective on that particular stain type.

 

[J Scott W]

A few more tips about using any oxidizer or reducer and the reasons -

1. Use fresh product. Products that cause a chemical reaction have a shorter shelf life than most of the products we use. The bottle that sat in your truck for months when the temperature was 95 degrees outside and 140 inside the van with the machine running will not do the job the same as fresh product.
2. Use an insulated carrier for your spotting chems. I like to drop one of those refreezable blue ice things into thebottom of my Bridgepoint stain kit.
3. Apply to dry carpet or at least reasonably dry. Water dilutes your product. Synthetic carpet will only absorb so much liquid. If it has already absorbed some water from cleaning process, additional liquid tends to stay on the outside of the fiber rather than being absorbed into the fiber. You want the spotting agent to penetrate as deeply into the fiber as whatever caused the stain.
4. Buy StainZONE and RedZONE it pays my salary.

Scott Warrington

 

[packfancjh]

4. Buy StainZONE and RedZONE it pays my salary.

There you go Scott! 8)

 

[TimP]

I've had good luck with Red 1 and cobbs dye remover. I usually make sure the fiber has the chemical touching all parts that are affected. I make sure to have 4 layers of a wet towel below the iron. I give it a good 30-45 seconds before I check it the first time as I have a lot of towel between the carpet and iron. Then check every 30 seconds afterwards if I see a change starting. I have rarely found a stain magic to work on a red stain but I'm not saying it wont ever work for those mystery red stains, and of course it's best to use it first like said above as to not set the stain if the reducer don't work.

 

[Jim Martin]

I bit the bullet and cleared the cob webs from there front door and went into Interlink the other day.....to pick up some of that red zone everyone was talking about because I had a home with 2 huge red kool aid stains....

very impressive stuff......took every bit right out with no problems......

 

[Larry Cobb]

Tim;

When using our Dye Stain Remover with heat, it is important to remember what is activating the chemical reaction.

Steam is the important component from the iron.

One layer of moist terry towel,
is thin enough to allow the steam to assist the Dye Stain Remover.

Thanks for the recommendation.

Larry

 

[Greenie]

I must say the one part Red Vanish from Steve was universal stuff, worked on everything that you used to use the "Magics" on.

 

[jayjacques]

An excellent thread with great tips. Thanks everybody.

 

[TimP]

Tim;

When using our Dye Stain Remover with heat, it is important to remember what is activating the chemical reaction.

Steam is the important component from the iron.

One layer of moist terry towel,
is thin enough to allow the steam to assist the Dye Stain Remover.

Thanks for the recommendation.

Larry

I understand what you're saying. However I make sure my towels are very wet and this creates steam just as well as one layer probably. It takes some more time but I feel safer with more layers that I'm not going to mess up the carpet. Maybe it's a crazy thing but I want there to be enough towel and moisture inbetween my iron and the carpet to keep it from burning the carpet.

Everyone has their own way, mine may not be the best but I feel comfortable doing it this way.

 

[tim]

Shawn and Scott are right on (as usual), have not tried the new Red Zone but why is it 2 Part? Stain Zone was a great invention...1 part Stain Magic. Take a page from Vacaway. Red Vanish is the best I have ever used, 1 part, great shelf life, even in the heat. I may try Red Zone if I have something that doesnt respond to Red Vanish but that doesnt happen often. Scott, bring samples of the new products to Connections, I will be looking forward to trying them, especially the OSR/Hydracide combo!

 

[B&BGaryC]

I always use heat with oxidizers.

Never had any problems.


I find the bridgepoint red stain remover is good. I have better luck with fresh sodium metabisulfite (bridgepoint coffee stain remover) and some protein spotter.

Question: If a 1 step product will take out 9 out of 10 red spots, and a 2 step product will take out 10 out of 10 red spots, which product do you use?

Be honest. The best choice for most guys is the 1 step product that doesn't work as well, because you will use it every time it is needed, whereas you won't bother with the complicated product if you are in a hurry.

 

[Able 1]

How about Stain Rescue(two part) from Prochem? Usually use Red One but thought I would give it a shot. I have a strawbarry stain that i'm going to do in an hour.

Thanks,
Keith

 

[tmdry]

Tim;

When using our Dye Stain Remover with heat, it is important to remember what is activating the chemical reaction.

Steam is the important component from the iron.

One layer of moist terry towel,
is thin enough to allow the steam to assist the Dye Stain Remover.

Thanks for the recommendation.

Larry

I understand what you're saying. However I make sure my towels are very wet and this creates steam just as well as one layer probably. It takes some more time but I feel safer with more layers that I'm not going to mess up the carpet. Maybe it's a crazy thing but I want there to be enough towel and moisture inbetween my iron and the carpet to keep it from burning the carpet.

Everyone has their own way, mine may not be the best but I feel comfortable doing it this way.

Are you applying your red stain removal after you've cleaned the carpet or before?

I used to do it after with Red 1 and i had to use an iron, now i always do it b4 i pre spray.

I also use just one towel, very wet/damp, i've done it up to 30-45 seconds before with the iron right on the towel, it won't burn the carpet if you keep eye ballin it. I was doing that alot with Red 1, now i only use Red Vanish and haven't touched my iron in weeks.

I always apply red vanish after i pre vac, than pre spray w/ chem of choice, by the time i get to the red stain it's either gone or just needs a little touch up.

 

[TimP]

I only use one towel too but i layer it up.

I don't mind getting the iron out....it's not like it's often. I have yet to find a red stain that goes away with pre treating it. I tried the vac-away stuff and it didn't do nothing. I have always had to use heat if it was a real red stain. I find that I get a lot of red spots up because they aren't stains. Mostly washable markers and stuff like that, and sometimes fingernail polish and paint.

I actually tried many times with red 1 to treat the stuff before I just found that I was wasting product cause I had to get the iron out anyway....went though a quart quick doing that.

 

[Tile Nerd]

Vacaway's Red Vanish. No mixing, works good without an iron too. The iron is of coarse an option.

 

[TimP]

I tried it and didn't get any results from it. Don't mean that it doesn't work.....just not for me. Not like with the sample pack there is enough to try enough spots for the product.

 

[SRI Cleaning]

Wow I got alot of great info, thanks guys!

 

[tim]

I guarantee Red Vanish works!! If red vanish doesnt work then it doesnt need a reducing agent! Red Relief works just as well but more expensive, 2 part, volatile, shorter shelf life. Get a few carpet samples and make some of your own stains, give it a few weeks then see for yourself. Try things like cough syrup, koolaid and mountain dew code red.

 

[SRI Cleaning]

I guarantee Red Vanish works!! If red vanish doesnt work then it doesnt need a reducing agent! Red Relief works just as well but more expensive, 2 part, volatile, shorter shelf life. Get a few carpet samples and make some of your own stains, give it a few weeks then see for yourself. Try things like cough syrup, koolaid and mountain dew code red.

Do you think it works better than red 1? i have used red relief and red 1, i think red 1 is better than red relief. I am going to have to try red vanish. Where do you get it? I have never purchased any vac a way products.

 

[Farenheit251]

I haven't had much luck getting stains to disappear without heat before I clean. But on my most trashed out rentals I am often asked to look and see if carpet can be saved or to give a price so money can be set aside. On those I will spray the red stains while I am there. Most of them are gone when I come back to clean( I still charge full price) with Red Vanish. The other products I have tried rarely work that way. That leads me to think Red Vanish is superior.

 

[tim]

anthony, vacaway.com. Do yourself a favor and get cyclone hwe and helgel too, you wont be sorry. I have not been thrilled with red1. I usually love cti products but I think a few of their products have some problems. Power gel tubes dry out, red releif and stain magic too short of shelf life and volatile. I like red vanish for red, cyclone/fels naptha/helgel for various stains you may use power gel combo on and USR/Protein spotter or 40 vol/ammonia in place of stain magic. I also prefer Stainzone as it is 1 part and not nearly as short of shelf life.

 

[SRI Cleaning]

Cool thanks tim!

 

[wired]

I also have tried red vanish from vacaway with very poor results. In fact I was not impressed with any of there products. They just seem to have fancy names and pictures for there products. But if it works for some of you thats great.

 

[tim]

reread scott and shawns post, then try different products side by side. Use the one you are most comfortable with. They all work, when properly used, no one has the magic formula. Red vanish usually wont take out red ink. Just because it is red, doesnt mean a reducer will take it out. If I am unsure of the type of stain, I try a small amount of solvent on a white towel. If I get transfer, I keep going, if I dont, then I try the oxidizer or reducer, dont add heat to avoid setting the stain until I am sure it will respond. We all have been guilty of using the wrong product on a spot. I created a nightmare once with red relief and a steamer on a red marker spot. Took stain magic and a dci light to fix it. I just like 1 part products and dont like to worry about the freshness of the product from my supplier or carry my spotters on ice!

 

[wired]

I have a cust. with white carpet. She moved out and there were urine stains and very large red stains in the living room. The landlord had her carpet cleaner came in and cleaned it but the stains remain. There is no smell just the stain. I sprayed the urine stain with stain magic but the red stain is three foot by three foot What would you do. Thanks

 

[tim]

That large of a stain is almost certain to be synthetic red dye. But... to be sure, pull a couple of the red stained fibers out. Treat one with Red Vanish/Red Releif/Red 1 and treat the other with stain magic. If they dont respond quickly, apply heat to both to accelerate the process. Whichever one removes the red color will be the one you treat the large stain with. I use a wagoner wall paper steamer. It has a large attachment that works well for large areas. If the product that works is stain magic, dont steam just spray, aggitate and leave it. Heat with stain magic can and will bleach if you are not careful. I would also use 40 vol/ammonia to save some money over stain magic.