Respirators demystified. Please.

[ruff]

Shawn, Scott, Larry Cobb, Pemberton, Oz or anybody with knowledge as to respirators.
Please demystify.

Trying not to start a discussion as to whether we should or shouldn't wear them, or how clients respond to them. Lets just leave it at: Macho guys will be macho guys. Nothing can be done about it.

However, due to our continuous and multiple exposure to pre-sprays etc. I'd like to know what kind of respirator will be sufficient. I am not talking about some crazy solvents etc, just your average, run of the mill pre-spray. And I am assuming using a Hydroforce at 300-400 psi.

• Do we need one of the heavy duty carbon activated ones?
• Or will a simple paper one be enough to provide the necessary protection.
• What products require heavier protection.
• After spraying the regular pre-spray, how long would you guess it takes the product to settle down (not be airborne) so that a respirator is no longer required?

Any other info you'd like to add?

 

[bob vawter]

Mrs Phiff will freak right out...
grab little Muffy and run right out the door................



ohh...an' sue yor shorts off for any and all sniffles...
allergy symptoms OR dED dogs.....

 

[Jim Martin]

Mrs Phiff will freak right out...
grab little Muffy and run right out the door................

I agree........I just can't see this going over to well explaining to the client that your stuff is people and animal friendly as your standing there breathing like Darth Vader in a respirator........

 

[The Great Oz]

You're smart to pay attention rather than being a cowboy, although I think the majority of what we use is pretty harmless and I'd look for safer alternatives to products that require a respirator. When looking through your products, I might focus concern on light solvents, "cides" and products that contain polymers, or if you're applying something above head level.

Here's a link that may help http://multimedia.3m.com/mws/mediawebserver?mwsId=SSSSSufSevTsZxtUOxmG4x_SevUqevTSevTSevTSeSSSSSS--

This is 3M, but any respirator site has lot of information regarding the type of filter you need for protection from various chemical formulations. For example, an organic filter will do a great job of filtering solvent, but would be an expensive particulate filter that will quickly clog with dust.

The MSDS on the product should help as well, just remember that the MSDS is for handling concentrate and using the diluted product may not require the same protection. (Buy some splash goggles while you're at the respirator store.)

Most of what we spray is using low enough pressure or with a large enough spray tip that the particulate is relatively large and falls quickly rather than hanging in the air.

 

[dgardner]

Be sure to match the PPE with the hazard. According to an industrial hygenist (not me, by the way), some combinations can be worse than none at all. For instance, wearing a paper mask can actually absorb and concentrate solvents, increasing your dose!

 

[Desk Jockey]

First off I'm not one of those listed but I've never let that stop me. ; )

A N-95 is an upgrade from a simple dust mask but with better filtration. If you were asking about dry particulate it would probably be sufficient. But for spraying chems you'll need a p100 organic vapor. Half face would work although if you spray frequenly you might consider fullface. Some vapor can be absobed through your eyes too.

I agree it might be pretty terrifying if a homeowner walks in on you wearing one. Explain it to them that its the continued exposure not the brief exposure that's a problem.

You could always use larger jets when spraying so the droplet size is larger and less is in the air. With larger jet size and improved low to the carpet technique you can greatly reduce what you breathe.

Avoid the use of ULV foggers which can suspend airborne particles for several hours. Which can cause coughing and irritation if breathed in.

Have the homeowner stay out of the area until "they" feel comfortable in the area. At least a couple of hours but rather than a defined time, let them decide when.

 

[ruff]

I was sure Bob et all will make the use of the respirator the issue.

I've been using a respirator for many years, and clients appreciate it. Yes Bobs you heard it right, you heard it here- appreciate it.
I explain to them that we get daily and multiple exposure to these products and need to protect ourselves. I also ask them to leave the room when we spray. Guess what?
They understand and appreciate it. They make the logical conclusion that if we take care of our health, we'll also take care of theirs too. Which is true.

Unlike you, not protecting yourself and exposing the client as well. All just to maintains a false impression that it is the safest thing around.
Client are smart and appreciate honesty and candor. Try to assume they are, they may surprise you.

Maybe if you wore a respirator Bob, you'd have extended your cleaning career.

P.S. Sorry Richard, your name was not mentioned as it was assumed that you knew that in my book, you're always included.

 

[bob vawter]

when Fifi croaks..it'll be all yor fault....

1 800 calla-lawyer

 

[ruff]

when Fifi croaks..it'll be all yor fault....

1 800 calla-lawyer

Can't go any safer than the products I use.
Hell, most of them are less toxic than the water in Michigan.

Just be honest, tell the clients the truth and they can deal with it.

The same reason for which you keep your van looking clean and nice will apply here. They see a clean looking, well maintained van and they assume that you'll do the same for them and their home.
You take the time to protect yourself and your health and they will assume that you'd do the same for them and their home.
Funny how that works.

P.S. Fat chance for that, however I'd like to go back to my original post: What kind of respirator will work for the average traffic lane cleaner, applied with a Hdroforce?
Links will be great.

 

[bob vawter]

carry on Mr Vader.......

 

[J Scott W]

Richard and Bryan provided good information. I'll add that I prefer to keep the products down on the carpet where they belong instead of in the air where they can be inhaled. Thus little need for a respirator when dealing with presprays, rpotectors and normal every dya cleaning agents.

Use a bigger spray tip. I suggest 06 or larger.
Do not spray with too much pressure. Depends upon the type of sprayer, but you want droplets not a mist that has been atomized.
Keep tip of spray wand 12" to 18" from the carpet. Closer and you get spray that bounces back into the air. To far above the carpet and air currents begin to carry the spray into breathable air space.

N95 type - http://interlinksupply.com/index.php?item_num=AX901
P100 cartridges for organic vapors (magenta color) can be fit to most half face or full face respirators. There are also some P100 grade paper style respirators.

 

[ruff]

Scott, thank you for the explanation and the link
(Richard and Bryan thank you too.)

So, for example when using an upholstery pre-spray (it is misted with a hand held spray bottle), so some may still be in the air and we spray pretty close to where our faces are, will this work?
N95 type - http://interlinksupply.com/index.php?item_num=AX901

Other links?

 

[Desk Jockey]

If you concerned about preconditioning upholstery, have you tried the bucket and upholstery mit, sea sponge or horse hair brush?

It would keep would keep your chems from being aerosolized and yet do a fine job of applying your solutions.

 

[Larry Cobb]

However, due to our continuous and multiple exposure to pre-sprays etc. I'd like to know what kind of respirator will be sufficient. I am not talking about some crazy solvents etc, just your average, run of the mill pre-spray. And I am assuming using a Hydroforce at 300-400 psi.

• Do we need one of the heavy duty carbon activated ones?
• Yes
  
• What products require heavier protection.
• Fluorochemicals & AntiMicrobials
• After spraying the regular pre-spray, how long would you guess it takes the product to settle down (not be airborne) so that a respirator is no longer required?

with a #6 jet, only a couple of minutes


Any other info you'd like to add?

Larry

 

[ruff]

If you concerned about preconditioning upholsteryy, have you tried the bucket and upholstery mit, sea sponge or horse hair brush?

It would keep it would keep your chems from being aerosolized and yet do a fine job of applying your solutions.

I do, but stop thinking out of the bucket Richard .

However, your point is well made and it works very well. Though the bucket method works better with shampoos and most shampoos are not designed to rinse well. So, I do like to pre-spray upholstery and wonder if a respirator like Scott's link (where's yours Larry?) would be sufficient?

 

[Desk Jockey]

Not in my opinion. While an N-95 offers an improved level of protection over a dust mask its not organic vapor protection. If dust, mold or other particles were your concern then by all means use an N-95.

But if I were concerned with the vapors I breathe, I'd look at a 3M full face neoprene mask. Great protection, comfortable fit. Depending where you buy $100.00 -$130.00

North also makes great fullface masks, larger fit too but general a little more. If you wore it alot like out techs that do mold remediation then spend the extra. If its only for a few minutes here and there than save $30.00-$50.00

Either are good masks if you take care of them, should last you many years. Get some zip locks and the pink P100 cartridges. Wash you mask when done using it let dry and throw in your zip lock. A desiccant pack will keep it from getting moldy. You should also get some good time out of your cartridges if you take them off the mask and zip lock them away in a separate bag.

 

[Desk Jockey]

I go that wrong the North's are cheaper than I thought. That's a good price, I bought 8-last year and I think I paid a little more than that per mask.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NORTH-BY-HONEYWELL-54001-North-5400-Full-Face-Respirator-M-L-/221378018048

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NORTH-by-HO...irator-Cartridge-OV-P100-2-pack-/201086184179

 

[J Scott W]

Scott, thank you for the explanation and the link
(Richard and Bryan thank you too.)

So, for example when using an upholstery pre-spray (it is misted with a hand held spray bottle), so some may still be in the air and we spray pretty close to where our faces are, will this work?
N95 type - http://interlinksupply.com/index.php?item_num=AX901

Other links?

I guess it comes down to how much protection you desire for something to "work." The fact is that most upholstery cleaners would follow the process you describe and use no respirator.

The N95 respirator you linked too would catch most of the mist. But once you have finished with the prespray steg, I would suggest you remove it. Because the mist that the mask has caught remains close to your face and vapors would come through after a short time.

If you wanted longer protection throughout the job, then a P100 such as Richard posted along with cartridges for organic vapors.
This page shows several options. The AX90 at $20 is the lower cost model.
https://www.facebook.com/InterlinkSupply?ref=br_tf