Rinse that Blower Out

[GCCLee]

Yup, it was that time again today...


Jus felt it was needed after cleaning on a massive incline last week.

On LOW
Ease the hose to full stream while sticking it in the suk hole inside your waste tank.

Let it run an flush that crap out for about a minute.

Do It in the Grass : )
Silencer should spew water like this...

Cut the water off and let it blow the excess out once it is a fine mist out of your silencer crank it up and let it run.



Noise draws attention, i like making alot and telling people why.

Once its dry, flip it in low an squirt ya a shot of WD or another good lube down the pipe.

Glad thats Done! Cracking that tank Suks!

 

[Shawn Forsythe]

Rinsing a blower is a lot like a colon cleanse.

If you NEED to do it regularly to survive, you are doing something else wrong. Or in this case, something is either wrong with your filtration, shutoff, foaming issues, or you are using a piss-poor rust inhibitor (or too much). I'd say you are band-aiding another problem, which may also cause other issues, if you don't fix it.

Yeah, I know alot of people swear by it, and say ya have to do it. But frankly, I have just seen and experienced 100 times as many cases where a properly functioning system that has never seen a single "flush", is as pristine after ten years and many 1000's of hours, as it was after a week old. On the other hand, when something is amiss, yes the lobes can get dirty. I also recognize that some systems are ill designed to stay clean, with care. But in Chris's case, I don't see it happening (unless it has been modified from stock).

When things are going right, the blower should remain pretty darn clean for the duration of the life of the blower (which should be at least a couple of decades).

Chris, what's going on? You doing a lot of sudsy rat-nasties without using any defoamer, or are ya douching the blower with WD-40 every day?

 

[bob vawter]

yes the lobes can get dirty

sir i hate to differ....but
more crud build-up occurs
on the end walls of the blower...



jus sayin'




pee s

ya Boo..yous can lighten up a little on the doushin'...
i did it once a week OR when ever i felt it might be due

 

[Shawn Forsythe]

sir i hate to differ....but
more crud build-up occurs
on the end walls of the blower...

Yes, specifically... YOUR blower, and those likewise AFFLICTED. I'm not in any way saying that there are not those that have this problem. Yes, yours, and some others probably do need it.

An ounce of prevention.....yada, yada

 

[bob vawter]

are you sayin' that i might has the PROPENSITY?

 

[jcooper]

Chris, what's going on? You doing a lot of sudsy rat-nasties without using any defoamer, or are ya douching the blower with WD-40 every day?

Sooo, wd40 is bad now? Is wd40 everyday bad for the blower?

 

[bob vawter]

witout the rinse........yes!

 

[JS41035]

Just overflow your waste tank one a week. That should solve your problems. We call that a Stockwell APO. 2 birds one stone. Your welcome.


....

 

[GCCLee]

Shawn,


I ran on an incline nose down last week and sucked suds through the blower.

So I maintenance it.
Nothing more than prevention really.


And I have been having to use quite a bit of defoamer lately, seems we ran into a streak of Previously Resolved units or something.


Maybe my competition is pouring Mr Bubbles in da floor before I get there.

 

[Shawn Forsythe]

Sooo, wd40 is bad now? Is wd40 everyday bad for the blower?

In relative terms, yes indeed. By today's standards it is rather obsolete in a number of ways. First, (not having to do with this subject), it is problematic for can stowage inside a van. The cans are not very friendly to van temperatures, and the product is extremely flammable. Because of this, it is rather dangerous to tote.

But I digress. WD-40 used sparingly to protect the blower lobes, works barely well enough. The problem is that it is often overused, which not only coats the blower lobes with a thick layer of "flypaper" for dust and debris, it also causes the same on blower heat exchanger fins. WD-40 was state of the art in the early 50's, when a thick oil or grease layer would protect the metal from corrosion. More recently created products for corrosion inhibition work far better, with less sticky residue, and with less product needed. Two examples are Corrosion Block and Corrosion X. They are far cleaner, you use less, and it works far better, especially for long term storage. A really inexpensive alternative, if that is a concern, is Liquid Wrench Non-Flammable, in the teal colored can. Last time I saw it at Walmart, it was a little over two bucks a can. Use this, and all products sparingly, on a moderately warm blower (not hot). It doesn't take much.

Lastly, take note... in my post above, I chose my words carefully. I was not making admonition so much about the choice of rust preventative, but about the overuse quantity that "gunks" up the blower. It's especially bad if you use your TM as a dry vacuum, without filtration, on a freshly started blower loaded with WD-40.

 

[JS41035]

I can't count the times I've been driving down the road,minding my own business ,only to have a WD40 can blow up and destroy everything.
We store our WD 40 in a cooler packed in ice.


....

 

[Shawn Forsythe]

I regret putting that part in my comment, as it didn't address the topic directly. I have never heard directly about a can "exploding", but I do remember a segment on 20/20 discussing the dangers as it pertained to truckers who store a can in their rigs. The segment was referred to my by one of the blower manufacturers at a trade show (I don't remember if it was Roots or Gardner Denver, but they did ask us to pass it along to TM owners. It was from that same source that the teal can of Non-Flam Liquid Wrench was suggested.

 

[JS41035]

Just kiddin buddy. I knew what you meant.


....

 

[Shawn Forsythe]

I know, Justin.

I also know that in some circles, saying ANYTHING disparaging about WD-40 will raise ire as much as knocking duct tape as the greatest American invention of the 20th century.

 

[GCCLee]

I normally use liquid wrench, just been lazy lately

 

[Cleantechsk]

Great info. Will look into these products.

sent via tapatalk.

 

[bob vawter]

Chris...are you aware that those Flowmasters are ceramic coated on the inside as well....?

 

[Bill Soukoreff]

Tuthill Manual for PD Blowers

6.6 RECOMMENDED SHUTDOWN PROCEDURE TO MINIMIZE RISK OF FREEZING OR
CORROSION
When high humidity or moisture is present in an air piping system, condensation of water can occur after
the blower is shut down and the blower begins to cool. This creates an environment favorable to corrosion
of the iron internal surfaces, or in cold weather, the formation of ice. Either of these conditions can close the
operating clearances, causing the blower to fail upon future start-up.
The following shutdown procedure outlined below minimizes the risk of moisture condensation, corrosion
and freezing.
NOTE
Care must be taken so as not to overload or overheat the blower during this
procedure.
1. Isolate the blower from the moist system piping, allowing the blower to intake atmospheric air. Operate
the blower under a slight load allowing the blower to heat within safe limits. The heat generated by the
blower will quickly evaporate residual moisture.
2. For carpet cleaning applications, after the work is completed, simply allow the blower to run a few (3-5)
minutes with the suction hose and wand attached. The suction hose and wand will provide enough load
to the blower to evaporate the moisture quickly.
24
3. For extended shutdown, inject a small amount of a light lubricating oil such as 3-in-One® or a spray
lubricant such as WD-40® into the inlet of the blower just prior to shutdown. (3-in-One and WD-40 are
registered trademarks of WD-40 Company.) The lubricant will provide an excellent protective coating
on the internal surfaces. If using a spray lubricant, exercise care to prevent the applicator tube from
getting sucked into the blower. The applicator tube will damage the blower, most likely to the point that
repair would be required.
4. If the blower is being taken out of commission for an extended period of time, please also refer to the
“Long Term Storage” section of this manual.

 

[Bill Soukoreff]

Shawn, what about DuPont™ Teflon® Silicone Lubricant?

http://www2.dupont.com/Consumer_Lubricants/en_US/products/silicone.html

 

[Shawn Forsythe]

Shawn, what about DuPont™ Teflon® Silicone Lubricant?

http://www2.dupont.com/Consumer_Lubricants/en_US/products/silicone.html

I don't know. Really what is important here is the ability of the product to protect the blower from corrosion. Most "lubricants" tout some ability for this, but often it is a secondary or lesser characteristic, for which it doesn't excel. By the labeling, it appears the principle purpose of the product you mention is lubrication, using the lubrication properties of the Teflon.

I know nearly all the TM manufacturers put in their manuals to spray "lubricant", such as (insert name here), but it is a misnomer. Where you are applying the spray to the blower, has no metal-metal contact to "lubricate". The sole purpose for spraying the blower is to protect from corrosion between work days, so those internal close tolerance don't ever touch and cause friction or sticking as a result of rust formation (which can happen in just a couple of days).

In our Service Departments, the Monday morning after a 3-day weekend is very often occupied with a stuck blower or two from people who neglect to protect their blower, and the right conditions exist for rapid corrosion. Curiously though, it is happening a bit less than it used to, specifically because most TM companies that use blower exhaust heat, outfit their equipment with custom large gap blowers (high heat tolerance). They do this, because in their designs, the blowers run at elevated temps, for which heat expansion can be a real issue. It is these same blowers which are less likely to seize with a moderate rust layer.

 

[jcooper]

WD-40 used sparingly to protect the blower lobes, works barely well enough. The problem is that it is often overused, which not only coats the blower lobes with a thick layer of "flypaper" for dust and debris, it also causes the same on blower heat exchanger fins.

Well crap...! I've been screwing mine up for 900 hours. You would think a tm manufacturer, blower manufacturer, disty, other cleaners etc. would tell people about this.

When I bought my tm, I was told 10 seconds of wd-40 and do it at the end of everyday.

Thanks Shawn

 

[ruff]

Good info.
How much is putting too much.

I was told that at the end of the day I should spray about 2 seconds and let it run after for about a minute . Always did WD-40.

Never had a blower stuck so far.

 

[dealtimeman]

Ten seconds is kind of a lot of lube, I would just run the blower dry for 5-10 minutes at the end of the day and if it is really humid outside shoot 3-5 seconds of lube and be done with it.

Blowers cost a lot of money. And so does a lot of cans of Wd-40.

 

[bob vawter]

I don't know. Really what is important here is the ability of the product to protect the blower from corrosion. Most "lubricants" tout some ability for this, but often it is a secondary or lesser characteristic, for which it doesn't excel. By the labeling, it appears the principle purpose of the product you mention is lubrication, using the lubrication properties of the Teflon.

I know nearly all the TM manufacturers put in their manuals to spray "lubricant", such as (insert name here), but it is a misnomer. Where you are applying the spray to the blower, has no metal-metal contact to "lubricate". The sole purpose for spraying the blower is to protect from corrosion between work days, so those internal close tolerance don't ever touch and cause friction or sticking as a result of rust formation (which can happen in just a couple of days).

In our Service Departments, the Monday morning after a 3-day weekend is very often occupied with a stuck blower or two from people who neglect to protect their blower, and the right conditions exist for rapid corrosion. Curiously though, it is happening a bit less than it used to, specifically because most TM companies that use blower exhaust heat, outfit their equipment with custom large gap blowers (high heat tolerance). They do this, because in their designs, the blowers run at elevated temps, for which heat expansion can be a real issue. It is these same blowers which are less likely to seize with a moderate rust layer.

lubrication??? Shawn i'm sure you are aware that WD 40 is the term the government put on the 40th experiment to find a Water Displacement product back in WWII

 

[GCCLee]

lubrication??? Shawn i'm sure you are aware that WD 40 is the term the government put on the 40th experiment to find a Water Displacement product back in WWII

: )

 

[GCCLee]

Spraying WD forty fur 3 seconds is Plenty


Can't certain oils detonate if subjected to high heat or extreme pressures : )


Kaboom a blower w the wrong stuff or too much of a certain lube....


I'll put a Guarantee on it,





That you'll shat yur drawers!

 

[KevinD]

lubrication??? Shawn i'm sure you are aware that WD 40 is the term the government put on the 40th experiment to find a Water Displacement product back in WWII

World war II ended in 1945
WD-40 was not invented till 1953

 

[bob vawter]

soooooo Kevin you believe everything the government tells ya.......

listen to me....i was around when there really WAS a government........!

 

[KevinD]

No but I went to school and took History
and the government didn't have any part in the development of wd-40 either

 

[bob vawter]

No but I went to school and took History
and the government didn't have any part in the development of wd-40 either

again Kevin....do you believe everything they teach in school.......
history is written by the victors......